Gixer1460

But the Katana rods are stronger - racers usually will strip a crank to fit them - 493 - is the number. If you go that far then swaping pistons for smaller pins is a given anyway! And from a comment back in November - a oil cooled engine is NOT heavy especially compared to a GSX lump!

Hear what you're saying - Phil 'Woody' Wood used to run similar pressures on the Big CC Turbo / Nitrous Bandit but couldn't run the FP all the time as it would flood the engine at low / mid rpm's - proper juggling act, starting and staging!

Hmmmm! Wouldn't make much sense as piston to bore clearances mean contact should be minimal anyway. Contact through 'rocking' is a possibility but only occurs on the skirt at 90 degrees to the pin! Lubrication / oil trapping actually adds to drag and puts additional duty on the oil control ring pack so . . . . . .!

For a bike carb - even a HSR - 5psi FP isn't low! 1.5 - 2.5psi max is usual pumped pressure!

And whether you want to sound like a dickhead furry dice, cage driver with two missing wheels! Never heard mine and it was by my left knee!

Getting beyond a joke now!

I didn't say you couldn't fit one just they are designed for bikes that don't require them - drag bikes! I had a 10 row on my drag Kat which needed one as I used a GSXR head on an AC bottom end.

And it will hurt low down power. They are designed for an engine that lives most of its life @10k+ rpm and then for about 7 seconds LOL! Oh and for bikes that don't have coolers as well !

Not gonna argue with you but that's backwards! Oil cooling is based on a lower pressure system that shifts bulk volume and simple maths says you get bigger volume through a larger pipe at a given pressure (pump output) over the same time period. The in-pipe pressures can only increase / decrease with varying the restriction at outlet (which in this case is fixed!)

For oil cooled GSXR - it is not an issue! GSXR's have more oil pressure than they know what to do with!

OP didn't ask about ring gap!

If they be flat - they be f**ked!

Depends on if you use a full fairing and / or an airbox! This is the stuff that affects fuelling that can't be replicated on a dyno.

Yes but we do get discount and the retailers treat OSS membership as being part of a club!

So the answer is a NO then! Even in the more 'traditional' position its pretty unlikely!

Balancing idle mixtures / running should have no effect on float valve sealing ie. leaking or cylinders not getting fuel (unless the screw is completely closed!) If it is, then they aren't balanced! Looks to me as if another strip / clean / rebuild is required?

At that spec - no real benefit what so ever! You'll have to strip the whole top end down to correct the oil flow pathways for marginal gain! Change it up to a gorrila block, big studs, worked on head with BIG lift cams and you may get the benefits, otherwise no!

I'm a Flintstone man! Don't do Faceache - if it ain't here, it don't exist as far as i'm concerned LOL!

Never had one resist the charms of an Impact Driver!

Er ! I trust you had 10w/40 in there in the first place? And it was fully synth? Sometimes is the oils only been in there a few miles, draining and filling with cheap oil and a bit of use gets the plates back - sometimes not. A M8 used 'Mobil One; in his Bindit - changed from a nice clutch to a slippy bastard - oil change no good, needed new fibres!

Caused the death of many clutches! Older clutches just don't seem to get on with the stuff!

Yeah and so did I with my Kat hybrid 14.5:1 but it needed offboard 24v starter, idled at 2k, needed 120 octane fuel and only ran for less than 180 seconds! And FYI I used G21/G28 cams - think they were Cammotion, got them from Skip at Orient Express.

Not knocking your ambition but f**k me thats a lot of compression and certainly to much to be 'streetable'. At those levels you need 110-120 octane fuel or so much retard it kills the power. I would guess finding cams for oil cooled GSXR's is harder as everyone's moved on and 'these' are the new Dinosaurs LOL!

I know you didn't! - its the tool that is the problem for what is required. Use by an inexperienced hand could make things worse, and a new set of rings won't cure that! And i've had to re-ring an engine at 35k miles - it had been baby'd all its life before me, smoked on start up but ran ok - it just pissed me off. Bores totally glazed over, glaze busted and new rings = good as gold for another 40k till I sold it.

I'm going to contradict above (pedant sorry!) A honing tool removes metal to size a bore correctly after boring and as a consequence leaves the crosshatch 'scratches' in the cylinder. Use of a hone on a ready sized or slightly worn cylinder just increases piston to bore dimension. For a refurb such as required here you use a 'Glaze Buster' that lightly scuffs the bore surface and take the worn smooth faces off but doesn't change the physical size. I guess a 'dull' hone tool could be used but could make the job worse - pays yer money, takes yer choice! First image is Hone, 2nd is Glaze Buster.