Gixer1460

The bigger the number = the lower the overall ratio and lower top speed and slower accelleration (unless you have excessive power!) The smaller the number = the higher the overall ratio and higher the top speed and faster accelleration. There is always a compromise between accell. and top speed! BTW for best / longest chain life the front sprocket should be as big as possible - chains don't like 'tiny' diameter sprockets!

You seem to have uploaded the wrong file - that is surely her trans brother? If not - you deffo deserve your carb woe's LOL

Firstly don't mix vinegar, water and sodium bicarbonate - it won't do anything as it will be about as aggressive as clean water! The bicarb neutralises the vinegar acid! And sodium bicarbonate isn't caustic enough to be any good! If you want decent acid - get some muriatic (brick acid from a Builders Merchant) its Hydrochloric acid, can be diluted with water and washed away with clean water but it really goes aggressive on metals! Likewise Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) is very caustic and will attack metals with a vengeance! Don't sniff the fumes as your lungs won't thank you! Personally a good Ultrasonic blast with a heated, reasonably good solvent / cleaner usually shifts most crap - if you haven't a professional sized unit then multiple sessions will be required - the only cost is time!

No - It shouldn't. May cause other unwanted side effects so should be rectified - DOH! - as soon as possible LOL!

Is a pretty good question - And because you can isn't a good enough answer LOL! The problem will be the inlet spacings and finding TB's that will fit without major surgery. Obvious solution is use Blandit 1250 hardware which will deffo need adaptation or maybe GSXR600?

Reading previous messages helps !

Yeah - they don't normally follow the 77-93-77 or 78-90-78 carb body spacing of air / oil cooled engines! And as said 40's without an airbox will run crap / be largely untunable compared to 36 / 38's

Yeah you can but its not a straight forward swap! I think you get marginal increase in std valve sizes and valve lift with std. cams. Also there is a potential static CR increase I think?

Oh dear - Back to float valves again!

Check his profile! The geezer is in New York USA. From what i've read Cali carbs are completely different to the rest of the states in terms of the smog shit fitted and also theinternals, jetting and carb set up! To convert looks to be a shed load of work / money - i'd buy another set of 'non Cali' carbs!

And s/hand Flatties very rarely need the same attention as CV's as they tend to be cared for / lower use or mileage - well in my experience!

Only on the 'M' and 'N' model years! Unless you can find a REALLY good stock set of mk1 Bindit 36's which will still need fettling to work with a GSXR, I'd personally get some 36mm RS flatslides - different to live with but great carbs and will give some power increase over stock. They cost but most good thing usually do!

Given the choice I pick K&N every time. I've had backfires blow filters and turbo inlet manifolds off (no damage to either) not sure how a foam filter would perform!

Plenty big enough to suck air in enough to disrupt carb balancing. Obviously a bit ironic trying to balance all the others to the 'datum' which isn't working right LOL!

Anything can fit anything - usually using ingenuity and large hammers ! Plenty of 'old' machinery using EFI!

The different carb tops could only affect the lift of the slide - the centre two may be lift 'limitted' which would affect overall running esp. top end. Slides lift by vacuum / air flow depression not pressure and isn't dependant on volume - it will apply equally to big or small caps.

Personally if this site was my 'train set' - any 1st post that started with a question would get shit canned straight away until a proper meaningful introduction is undertaken. We are all responsible for responding to one timers - if we all ignored a 1st post question, they would either get the message or f^^k off which is what they tend to do anyway so no loss there!

And unfortunately a lot tend to be from the same part of the planet! - must be something in the water!

So you are constantly turning it on / off whilst riding? And i've never come across a speed regulated pump - Facet or similar - without outside control hence my 'flat out comment - they pump at one speed, all or nothing!

Won't an electric pump suffer equally for scavenging to fast as it is running 'flat out' all the time which isn't what is needed at idle for example. I have no preference although prefer the mechanical 'always running' pump over an electrical device, having other electrical pumps die when used in less severe situations.

If you could even locate one! Pretty much anything new was bought by the US prostock teams back in the day !

LOL's - you wouldn't like a properly tuned Bandit then - Moderate top end increase (150-160mph) but a mid range to die for (lift the front on the throttle upto 4th) and better fuel consumption than stock ! Its not what you do, its how well you do it!

Can't see a problem as long as the tappet nose strikes the centre of the valve head - just looks kind of odd!

Dunno now - typing my reply sort of dispelled my theory! Pip obviously had his reasons but Prostockers are renowned for trying weird / way out things to go fast.

Use the ones that have the less play in the rods and pistons - if no discernible play then either will work ok. Alternatively which ones have the smallest internal bore as these will be stronger especially in a boosted application.