Joseph

I think it's one of those things where if it were any good bikes would still have them ? I made blanking plates while refitting them, had them laser cut in SS if anyone wants the file

Has anyone fitted updated footpegs on the standard OC fitments ? I'm hoping for a plug and play solution. I know that passenger pegs off the 5PW R1 work plug and play on the back of an ET, cause i did that (might also work on OC ?) maybe front ones can be used ? Anyways, if anyone has an idea on this topic

Yes thats it, i have an idea to make a compact merger setup for a nicer integration of pipes 2 & 3, it adds work and complexity but it could work out ok. Space is always the issue Indeed having the turbo just after the manifold exit would be good but not possible here.

Thanks for all that info. Based on what you said (and what i can fit), if i build something similar to the photo i posted, it will be merging two 38s (from cyl 1 and 4) slightly stretched at the end to get to 51 with v band connector at the exit of the header, then a short length (around 45cm, can't do less) of 51 between the header and turbo. After that it would be 63 from the exit of the turbo to the rest of the exhaust system.

Another question and doubt heavy post. Right. So this is what i'll be working with : HE221 as you can see. Good deal made with someone who'd bought all this stuff for his diesel Mercedes before figuring out that it would be too small for his appliance. Looks like these Hoslets are the growing trend in good options for a 4 cylinder bike engine though. Beyond the damning fact that now that i have a turbo in hand, i have no idea where it can actually fit on the tricycle i'm building... ... I still need to dial it in. It now springs to obviousness why external wastegates are in some (most ?) cases, a great idea. My case potentially being one of them. Current orientation of the turbo inlets/outlets will need drastically changing to suit my needs. Is it correct to state that, as long as the bearing housing is horizontal (oil pathway therefore perfectly vertical), the turbine and compressor housing can point any which way i want ? However The vacuum unit setup and placement will then cause problems, because it is solidly bolted into the compressor, with the actuator rod of the vacuum unit set in a line towards the flapper. If i can rotate the compressor outlet to wherever I'd rather it be, if i make an outboard vacuum unit mount taken off the chassis for example, in order to retain current unit position, I should be good to go ? Thanks !

My bits were delivered with a 4 hole gasket for some reason ? So not sure whether it makes a difference

5.5 or 6 inch K rim will both fit the same, they both have that largely offset to the left rim center which is a bit of a job to sort out in an OSS but perfectly possible. 6 inch rim = more risk of chain to tyre contact though, so stick to a 5.5 600/750 rim like mentioned previously

Best to put them to use on a proper engine ?

Looking at the sump i'm actually not sure that baffling is possible or even necessary ? The pick up is very deep low down and cased in, and based on the fact that the oil sump level is actually 2 inches above the oil sump mating surface, it might take quite some G force cornering to empty the oil out of the pickup area. Anyways, not there yet, i'm currently looking at the header design. I've seen many online, basically a 4 into 1 with a flange plate for the turbo to bolt onto. Whats the general consensus on turbo headers ? NA engines need equal length tubes, some do tapered diameters etc, there's lots of potential in the header for those, but on a turbocharged setup how important is the header design ? Asking because i have space issues that i don't want to dig into too much, so if a very compact header is ok, i'll take it from there. Here is a photo of the header i had on that slabside : Two pairs of 90 degree bends from cylinders 1 and 4 into the turbo flange, and 2 pieces of straight pipe tapped into that from cylinders 2 and 3. Sounds alright ?

Yes alignment can be achieved spot on. A 525 chain is what i'm using however mine is a slingshot frame with busa arm, not a full busa. I think i need a 5mm offset sprocket to do so, using an XR650 sprocket which is cheap and compatible/same splines. But overall it's not far off and judging by the chain run in the busa arm it can't be far off on a real busa either

Isn't the 5 hole gasket just the 4 hole gasket with an extra tab and hole ?

The carrillos i've had in hand didn't look like that IIRC, and they were def the real deal, i'll see if i still have photos

Sounds like a decent turbo then I'm considering one for the 1400

How did it go ?