Gixer1460

If that works for you - i'd bore either side and add an o ringed tube between - adds a little flexibility and width adjustment.

As I understand it, if any bit wears out, you return it and it gets replaced. Never tried it as my DJ kitted bikes always morphed into something more stupid!

No hope IMO! Do it properly - space the gap between 2 and 3, the 5mm required.

I think PDQ are still official DynoJet Dealers / Importers and should be able to supply replacements 'free of charge' due to the DJ lifetime warranty. The slides are deffo DJ modded! Trying to get std needles and emulsions to work without an airbox is an act of futility taking hours and hours to get anywhere near correct but never perfect. Blandit jetting is nowhere close to GSXR even though of the same heritage!

I've never had one apart as I've never known one to fail but 'spose anything is possible LOL! But you are unlikely to need presses and pullers to remove and replace the regulator / rectifier as that is probably what has died. I'm guessing it'll be under the plastic end cover, bolted or screwed to something metal (as heatsink) with either plugs or ring terminal electrical connections - best I can do without looking in the manual - if I do, i'll correct any mistakes later ! Watch how you re-insert the alternator as a) the o-ring can get pinched / dislodged and b) the gear may not align with the oil pump gear and crack it so don't force it! Just checked on Robinsons - don't look at the replacement cost ! ! ! Best obtain a complete s/hand alternator - at a guess - a fifth of the cost of the part !

144 is a DJ size so its likely been kitted - check the needles / emulsion tubes for wear as DJ have a lifetime warranty. DJ don't touch the pilots and should run fine with stock sizes. Maybe the slide drilling hasn't been done? That may affect the 'snap throttle' transition?

The OP is asking about a 'whole clutch' upgrade not plates - read the query! Unfortunately clutches are fairly individual to each engine although some parts may swap with some fiddling. If you have engineering / machine shop capabilities later model clutches can be adapted but its not straightforward! It may be worth getting a new basket 'hard anodised' - it won't cure the problem but it should help lifespan.

Impossible ! Dropping down a spark plug hole during servicing maybe . . . . . . . . but then you'd sort of notice? But from valve chest into a cylinder whilst running - nah!

I would hazard a guess at CMC possibly being Cam Motion Cams ? They look a bit second hand but not tooooo bad. I'm also guessing those bores have had a long life to get that shiny - i've seen 50k mile engines with less polish and still having hone marks visible! But what going on with that cam chain? Looks like a GSXR one has been used instead of a GSX one LOL!

What don't fit good? - rubbers to carbs or rubbers to the plenum? Can't understand why rubbers to carbs would be a problem as they are designed to fit together, ok not under boost conditions but it's usually not a problem if correct clips are used. But if the latter, then i'd suggest remaking the holes for a better fit - this is the only bit you can control. There are plenty of builds that use OEM rubbers, so they do work. Other solution is thin wall silicone hose that is stretchy to accommodate oval and round pipe shapes but they do suffer with slippage if a bit of oil gets inside them!

But why did it die in the first place? Getting it to run is one thing - keeping it running is another! Plugs are generally reliable - my daily's plugs are approx 40,000 miles old and still going strong - just sayin'

Er - No! Bikes pre monoshock era never had huggers, probably for the very reasons you've found. The underseats were roughly moulded, roughly wheel shaped, to deflect most of the muck - directly into the electrics usually ! ! ! LOL. But if you are intent on using a bike during winter in the UK - either (A) budget for a scrapper daily that you don't care about or (B) invest in hosepipe / power washer and use it everytime you go out . . . . . . which gets old very quickly and makes you think option A was a better plan!

Will only identify a duff plug or lead. Swap the LT side of the coils 1/4 to 2/3 and vice versa and swap the plug leads to test the coils. Personally - single cylinder problem? - carbs more than likely.

Other than nostalgia, why spend money on something that's probably worn out and didn't work that well when new?

The spark at the spark plug on the other hand, ideally, should be blue and 'fat' - a thin weedy yellowish spark ain't gonna light anyones fire, reliably!

I obviously subconsciously removed the offending bolt / casting - no superhuman powers! Its not as if there are only two screws holding the cover on - don't stress, you can lose a couple!

Losing 6 or 7 teeth off the back means you get into chain run problems over the S/Arm pivot. Besides, a 17T front is kinder to a chain than a 15T. 18T would even better but that eats through everything LOL!

Confused ! The Blandit bottom cases are pretty much the same as a GSXR - Yes? I've fitted 532 pitch, 17T sprockets to both my Turbo'd GSXR engines without any problems - both were 3/8" / 10mm offset for chain run. Admittedly the clearances were minimal but they worked fine!

It would have to be a pretty atrocious exhaust to have that sort of affect so it may run badly but should rev out with virtually anything, so that means carbs! What are you using for carbs and filtration and what state are they in bearing in mind the state of the exhaust!

Maybe a frayed cable - the broken strands catch on opening but don't on closing ? Also a badly routed cable could cause issues?

There is usually one carb that is fixed ie. can't be adjusted so wind the throttle stop screw to open the throttle blades until something like a 3mm drill just fits in the gap of that carb, then adjust all the others to match that gap using the same drill. This is a static balance - final balance should be done with vacuum gauges and running engine. Obviously once static balance done the throttle stop screw should be wound out or it'll rev its tits off on start-up LOL! As regards the choke - I don't know as i've never had a problem with the choke system!

Whilst a points set-up may sound 'minimalist' it can present more aggro than its worth! Wasn't the 850 fitted with solid state electronic trigger and ignition from the factory? If so, and you want to get rid of extra boxes, i'd fit a Dyna 'S' system - all fits behind the ign. cover and 4 wires to coils and that's it! You'll still need the ATU for advance but they are tried and tested on 'older' GS & GSX type engines.

Oh dear - but if it makes you feel any better - I have seen worse, like LOTS worse LOL!

As you say the rotor should be fixed via the taper and secured by that big nut! The starter clutch seems to be doing what it should but obviously it's not attached to the rotor. I guess its remove the rotor time and see what lies beyond!

Who knows? Maybe to justify adding a £100 / $200 to the bike cost for addition of £10 / $20 part (cost to manufacturer not spares cost!) There is plenty of crap added to bikes that don't necessarily need to be there!