Gixer1460

Any diesel / petrol / solvent will eventually get past the rings due to the gaps so will contaminate the oil - i'd drop it personally and if fairly new it can be re-used after you do the ring thing! Also try and get the front of the engine tilted up so the piston crowns will be parallel to the floor - this will ensure the solvent / lubricant will flow 'round the edges' If you use a lot of fluid - don't spin the engine over with the starter - it could hydro lock and bend a rod! Just rock the crank back and forth using the nut on the ign. rotor -you are trying to get the rings to move up and down in their grooves!

you've possibly got a 1100 and a 750 std racks? A lock-up version is about 25mm longer to account for the cover spacer!

Good luck on that quest - they are real old skool and designed for bikes like early GS's, ZED's and GSX1100's - went out of business long time since and don't think they ever did anything for later bikes!

Stop using Starting Fluid ! If it won't start without it, its a carb problem. If it runs 'Good' when it does start, then it can't be electrical! If you are restoring it - why are you trying to run it with dirty / non functional carbs......... get them properly clean and serviced then you may have more luck!

Its really better if barrels are off and pistons are removed so they can be stood in a solvent / lubricant (Diesel usually works) and the rings spun in their grooves before re-aligning and rebuilding. If done insitu, no guarantee the diesel will get to all of the rings / grooves (unless you used LOADS) so you are back to square one! Of course your rings could be shot, in which case they'll have to be replaced regardless?

If you want COP's - you won't find any in that rating. You must use any of the ones easily sourced and wire them in series so the resistances add up to an acceptable level. There are mucho plenty threads on OSS about COP types used - use Search!

If you accept that the cover is potentially scrap, then you could use your suggestions as a 3 point plan - if the first don't work then try the second and if that doesn't work then the cover is scrap and point 3 will be required. A s/hand cover should be easily sourced as most 1100 / 1200 types will fit - only breather tower covers are the usual difference (as far as I know?) Welding is an option subject to crack size and what it affects as those bolts are part of the oiling system - bit more involved but may save the cover?

42 teeth. Final drive ratio's are subject to teeth count not chain size. 15:42 is the same for 530 or 630!

unlikely if they live in 'merica where thinking like that is common - vehicle inspection there seems to consist of making sure its still parked outside, which without brakes, could be doubtful LOL!

Its done to increase the capacity of crankcase breathing not an 'instead of' generally when a big bore or turbo charging is added as both increase ring blow by, both of which increase crankcase compression.

What? The 1100 engine has a completely different design basis to the 750 - they share being 4 cylinders with 4v/cylinder, nothing else is common bar some bolt on bits! Different electrics / loom and I think the forks are different but don't know for a fact!

Don't worry about them - you won't know them very long!

They all work exactly the same - cars / bikes / trucks only difference is what limb activates them and no servo assistance on bikes! Only word of caution - if you are not confident of an acceptable outcome - get someone who is! Brakes really are 'life & death' type devices! Use Alphasports for part diagrams and parts prices / availability, Some of the images can be a little poor but they are from original Suzuki parts microfiche's so it's understandable!

You could always remove the engine to make access easier . . . . . . . . sort of makes removing the battery box soooo much faster LOL!

Could well be - have you serviced the valves / tappets recently as those seals on the cam cover are notorious for getting misplaced and oil leaking down the plug holes and out of the well drain hole!

This won't help but you've picked the worst carbs to set up without an airbox - using those filters and exhaust will be a challenge!

Strange as I don't think i've ever had a spin on filter leak! Fill with oil, lube the o ring, clean the case face, screw on hand tight - job done! Even had over tightened ones with filter case metal touching case face - no leaks!

92 was the 'N' designation - last of the oilers!

Very Posh!

IMO unless you are running an EFI system with sequential capability using stick coils are no better than Dyna coils - using Iridium needle tipped type plugs would be a better option for reliable fat sparks to light richer mixtures.

Absolutely nothing! There for added accessories if you wanted them!

Sort of a result - nothing ventured nothing gained!

2.5 - 3.0 bar is usual. It's the flow you have to match - look for car with at least 25 - 50% more power output than the bike will make to be safe.

Has an R1 more power than a Bindit ? - Yes . . . . therefore pump will be ok. But was the R1 '98 EFI - I thought they were still on carbs? If so, then no as you need a HP pump!