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About Oilyspanner

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    Club Hammer
  • Birthday June 30

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    South of England

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  1. You'll have a power delivery full of holes, that was my experience trying to make my 40mm carbs work without the airbox - I used the std velocity stacks with ramair filters squeezed over the ends, I even had a factorypro kit for this conversion …. factorypro made the kit to work with k and N dual filters - still think the airbox is needed, or some sort of airbox to make the 40s work well. I like a challenge and thought the weight saving doing away with the airbox would be a good idea … I failed. The bike needed 155 or 157.5 main jets to pull well up top - still not as good at any point as the
  2. She looks mighty fine Dezza ! Such a good looking frame, lovely quality - unfortunately Captain's magnum is probably the closest I'll get !!
  3. Main benefit is as already said - makes space under the tank, weigh less and it's easy to 'clear the decks' when you do valve clearances. Did mine quite a few years ago, zero problems.
  4. Welcome to the site. Just 4900 miles ? Probably a typo. Have you looked at the plugs - a low speed running problem will show on the plugs, normally sooty. You say you replaced all jets, does this include the needle jets ? Check your plugs to narrow down the problem, then you can move in the right direction.
  5. Got to add some fairly recent findings on this subject. I had my spacers shaped like minipower's (and variants of) before I bought Jon's spacers. I thought my needle jets were fine and initially my low/mid-range was rich with the new ally spacers - I milled .8mm off the spacers and got a good set-up ….. but this year whilst working on my needle tapers etc, it was obvious something wasn't right - turns out that 2 of the needle jets were pretty worn and the other 2 weren't in great shape. It's very easy to not notice the wear, they look fairly round, but they don't meter the fuel very wel
  6. Ah, that'll be the turboed ones ! Maybe one day
  7. A lovely bike and probably the best colour slingy, hmmm, need to get one !
  8. Glad you did the install right ie. fit the retracted mechanism first and then fit the spring and bolt last - else the plunger can over extend whilst fitting it, once too tight that's it, it can't go back ! I changed my spring 2 or 3 years ago too, it was shorter as well - the spring costs very little, so good thing to do.
  9. It may be the clutch, but the purging of the fluid is a quick and easy thing to do - CliveGTO's - gunked up inside the cover is another good one to check, nice and easy to resolve - if one of those works then happy days ! …… if not it will be time to open the clutch case and taking the clutch apart - even that's not too bad, just the clutch basket holding tool and the centre nut are tricky, the rest is easy enough - if it is the clutch, then at least the actuation side has been serviced !
  10. The 1100F has a hydraulic clutch I think, it's worth bleeding some new dot 4/4.1 fluid through the system to remove any air/water in the fluid - the slave cylinder doesn't move the clutch rod that far, so anything that reduces the movement can cause the clutch not to disengage. Clutches tend to get grabby when hot to make things worse. Worth flushing the old fluid through before you go any further.
  11. If the other electrics work that are negatively linked to the engine/frame, then all should be good. I've had a couple of problems in the past that were caused by the low tension wires at the coil flag terminals fracturing - sometimes the spark was good and other times I had no spark when the wire moved, the plastic sheathing hid the break in the copper wires underneath - it might not be this, but worth a check. The wire on the flag terminals that attaches to the coils get twisted a lot when putting them on and off, causing fatigue/fracture. I checked for continuity by disconnecting the ignit
  12. I'd check what jets you've got SFC, 148 would be a dynojet size, not mikuni, it might have d.jet kit fitted - you can only use their jets with their needle jet and needle, they flow differently to the mikuni jets.Mixing d.j. and mikuni is a nightmare, a real arse ache ! Most running is on pilot and needles - does it run okay at tick-over, low speed cruise and moderate throttle opening and revs ? Check what jets are in the carbs because that changes any settings given. Mikuni jets have the square in a square logo on them, jets go up in 2.5 sizes (ml per minute) - I think dynojet normally have
  13. Fitting is no problem as dimension wise they're the same. As I remember the headers and collectors are the same, the 1100 m/n (41c model) had altered silencers internally, maybe to work with the big 40mm cv carbs. When I first got my 1100n it had one 40c silencer and one 41c, the performance was fairly smooth but it can't have made more than 110hp - at the time there were rumours that 40c silencers didn't work well with the 41c bike, this may be inaccurate - but certainly my bike wasn't very impressive with a mix of cans - also I don't know how the 40c (k/l) performs with 41c cans, or a mix o
  14. There isn't a paint code for the R 's engine, there's a number of close colours, if you do a search there's been a load of threads. I bought an exact match from RS motorbike paint - it cost a lot, I was feeling flush so bought it - is it much better than a few other rattle cans, it's very good but I could've easily lived with a pretty close match at 1/5 the price.
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