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About Oilyspanner

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    Club Hammer
  • Birthday June 30

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    South of England

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  1. The 1990 and 1991 750s have an extra row compared to the 1100s - the taller 1100 engine doesn't have as much space above the headers because of it's longer stroke. This also tells us the frames of those years are the same size.
  2. I wanted to know how to work it out, so I could understand it myself ......my wife's a maths teacher too, there's no hope !
  3. There's several types of Nitron, the ntr1 doesn't have a remote res. It works really well, I had that one first. I've since bought their fancy race one, that has a fixed reservoir - it came up second-hand , it had been on a race gsxr600L4 - I had to swap the bottom link to the clevis type link - this is why I know about the 600/750 shocks _ the spring rate is suitable too. The 1000k5 is very long as I remember, 330mm or more I think, I'm sure there's a swaps thread in the vault maybe ? You can make shocks fit with different length linkage rods/dog bones, but if you go too far the main
  4. Something I did to quickly work out true speed in each gear _ this is for gsxr1100 k-n and b1200 Quick calculation helper numbers. 1st gear 0.25381 2nd gear 0.37099 3rd gear 0.4841 4th gear 0.58182 5th gear 0.66275 Then measure rear wheel circumference in inches - you multiply with this number. work out final gear ratio, you divide the number by this. This give mph per 1000 rpm. Often used final gears and ratios 14 : 48 = 3.43 15 : 48 = 3.2 15 : 47 = 3.1333 15 : 46 = 3.0667 15 : 45 = 3 Here's 4th gear speed for my bi
  5. I bought a Nitron shock for my 1100n, best thing I did early in my ownership of my bike - any decent shock will make a big difference. The standard shock is only 312mm eye to eye, a bit longer is good - the gsxr600/750k6/7 shock is 320mm long , has good spring weight and the correct fitting at the bottom, the later shocks have an eye at the bottom link.
  6. The angle of your swingarm looks greater than mine. I've got an 1100N, with gsxr750 k9 forks, 750L2 wheels and a Nitron race shock - I kept the std swingarm and linkage, so a few similar things. I've 12mm of static sag on the rear - the amount the shock compresses due to the bike's weight, if you have next to no static sag, ie the shock is near topped out all the time. Lift the rear of the bike at rest and there should be some movement until the shock is topped out. The shock has a 475lb spring on it now, the 500lb/inch spring only worked when I was really tramping on. The forks still have the
  7. You'll have a power delivery full of holes, that was my experience trying to make my 40mm carbs work without the airbox - I used the std velocity stacks with ramair filters squeezed over the ends, I even had a factorypro kit for this conversion …. factorypro made the kit to work with k and N dual filters - still think the airbox is needed, or some sort of airbox to make the 40s work well. I like a challenge and thought the weight saving doing away with the airbox would be a good idea … I failed. The bike needed 155 or 157.5 main jets to pull well up top - still not as good at any point as the
  8. She looks mighty fine Dezza ! Such a good looking frame, lovely quality - unfortunately Captain's magnum is probably the closest I'll get !!
  9. Main benefit is as already said - makes space under the tank, weigh less and it's easy to 'clear the decks' when you do valve clearances. Did mine quite a few years ago, zero problems.
  10. Welcome to the site. Just 4900 miles ? Probably a typo. Have you looked at the plugs - a low speed running problem will show on the plugs, normally sooty. You say you replaced all jets, does this include the needle jets ? Check your plugs to narrow down the problem, then you can move in the right direction.
  11. Got to add some fairly recent findings on this subject. I had my spacers shaped like minipower's (and variants of) before I bought Jon's spacers. I thought my needle jets were fine and initially my low/mid-range was rich with the new ally spacers - I milled .8mm off the spacers and got a good set-up ….. but this year whilst working on my needle tapers etc, it was obvious something wasn't right - turns out that 2 of the needle jets were pretty worn and the other 2 weren't in great shape. It's very easy to not notice the wear, they look fairly round, but they don't meter the fuel very wel
  12. Ah, that'll be the turboed ones ! Maybe one day
  13. A lovely bike and probably the best colour slingy, hmmm, need to get one !
  14. Glad you did the install right ie. fit the retracted mechanism first and then fit the spring and bolt last - else the plunger can over extend whilst fitting it, once too tight that's it, it can't go back ! I changed my spring 2 or 3 years ago too, it was shorter as well - the spring costs very little, so good thing to do.
  15. It may be the clutch, but the purging of the fluid is a quick and easy thing to do - CliveGTO's - gunked up inside the cover is another good one to check, nice and easy to resolve - if one of those works then happy days ! …… if not it will be time to open the clutch case and taking the clutch apart - even that's not too bad, just the clutch basket holding tool and the centre nut are tricky, the rest is easy enough - if it is the clutch, then at least the actuation side has been serviced !
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