1100G

I have the AEM on an LS V8 swap that is underway, and this one on another bike, seems like a good product & price point: Spartan Lambda 2 Either one could be reused if I go EFI. Seems like curved mild steel bungs are now hard to come by- all of the ones I saw were stainless.

Looks like the closest dyno is about 2.5 hours away and $95/hour. I just sunk over $700 on carbs and filters and other odds & ends to mount them. Aside from the fact I have no way to get the bike there w/o riding it (catch-22), I can't spend hundreds more right now. Mikuni has basic tuning instructions with them that seem pretty decent. The old BST36 carbs were gone through after the side tube on one was leaking. I used some JB Weld to patch it. I also had replaced the plastic slide housings, emulsion tubes, and needles last year. Reset the float levels. Worked great for a few months and then the coils went out. Replaced those, and then #2 carb started leaking. At that point, I was done with patching up these nearly 30 year old carbs. I didn't want to waste money on used carbs. The only new option for a bank of 4 were the RS flatslides. I'm not looking for maximum performance, just a reliable daily rider. At some point if I keep the bike I'll likely convert it to Microsquirt.

Thanks for the input. I am waiting on some other parts, so maybe I'll begin with the 120 jets. A dyno while a great idea simply is not feasible for a number of reasons such as geographic and economic.

I got tired of dealing with my leaky BST36 CV carbs. so I found a set of new RS34s at a good price and bought them. The catalog lists the jetting as being 115 mains, but when I took off the bottom plugs I saw every one was jetted @ 125 (they came with 110, 115, and 120 jets also). I didn't take the float bowls off yet but did verify the needles were all in the -3 position. I found a chart here that lists a bunch of jetting suggestions: http://www.braigasen.com/Mikuni_jetting_chart_four_stroke.htm The closest RS34 application is for the GSX600 or GS750, and it lists stock 115 jets. There is a listing for the GSX1100 with RS36 and it lists 120 MJ and all of the other stuff is the same as the RS34. The bike has no engine mods, the OEM exhaust, and I'm running pod filters. Any advice on where to start?

I don't see any significant difference here. The plate adds about 1" to the path of the oil coming and going and no significant restrictions.

If you look at the 2nd and 3rd pics, you can see some 1/8 NPT brass plugs in the Aeroquip lines. I tried that, but the sender blocked most of the line. This sender needs to have oil flowing around it to work properly (see 5th pic, it is in hand tight, wrench tight allowed more of the tip to be in the oil flow). I found the other two openings in the thicker part did not allow the tip to be exposed. Before this I had it in a 1/4" pipe tee that was fed by a -3 AN hose off the main gallery. While the pressure gauge worked OK there, the temp gauge did not. This plate seemed like a good budget solution, plus the research on the OEM nipple can help those that just want a wider filter selection. When I test fitted it before pulling the exhaust, everything cleared OK. Use of the shorter filter would only help here. I have a 51348 on for the pics, which is what my lawnmower uses. It's about the same size as the stock filter.

The filter plate arrived and I had to grind one side of it to clear. I used the Trans-dapt #1034 nipple and it was a perfect fit. The nipple was the same size as the original part, so it can be used as-is if you just want a better filter selection. The nipple is 3/4-16 thread and has a section that stops it from going into the block too far. I applied some green loctite. I'll attach a couple of pics. My oil pressure sender was too large so it will be connected to the main cap on the right side of the engine. My oil cooler hoses were modified for AN fittings and hoses, so I have more clearance than the original setup.

UPDATE- see edit #2 below for workable solutions. Joined here to get some info on this now non-existent part, and to hopefully create a path for others that want to use something similar. Since this thread is relevant, I'm adding to it vs starting a new one. I sent an email to the CalSci place that says they are developing one, but have not heard from them. My 1992 GSX1100G has added Prosport oil pressure & temp gauges and I need a place to mount the senders. The pressure sender sticks out too far to install on the main gallery on the right side of the engine, so I'm looking into using a filter adapter (sandwich) plate that has the 1/8 NPT openings in place. Since I have adapted AN fittings to the front oil cooler lines, it looks like I have enough room to mount the 3" diameter plate there. To mount it, it attaches to the existing pipe where the filter attaches. Since our bikes use an ultra-fine and unique 20x1.0mm filter thread, no one makes an adapter for that one. Standard thread here is 20x1.5 with other SAE and metric options available. The 20x1.5 filters generally use the same base/gasket dimensions based upon my research at the Wix filter site. My first question was what is the thread size on the block end of this adapter? The adapter is still available as Suzuki PN 16591-06B01. In lieu of buying one, I pulled one from a 1991 GSX1100G parts bike I have. I found the block thread was a common 3/4-16. The adapter is about 1.25" long. I took some pics of it and will attach them for reference. Now that info is known, the next issue involves finding an adapter that is 3/4-16 x 20x1.5. I looked up some common Japanese bike adapters and here is what I found: Most Hondas use PN 90019-MB0-000, which uses a 20x1.5 filter. The block end is unknown. It looks similar to the Suzuki part. Most Kawasakis use PN 32033-1535, which is 20x1.5 straight thread. No go on that one. Most Yamahas use either 90401-20008-00 or 90401-20007-00, with the latter being used on mainly boat engines from what I can tell. These both are 20x1.5 on the filter side, and unknown but different on the block side. These unlike the Hondas or Suzukis have a hex fitting to remove & replace them. My plan is to pickup these adapters and measure them. Best case scenario, one of them will be 3/4-16 and screw right in. If not, then a pan B will be in order, perhaps just a length of 3/4-16. The drawback there for usage w/o the plate would be finding a filter with the proper base size. I will update as I make progress on this project. EDIT While browsing, I learned the AN8 fittings use the 3/4-16 thread needed. To use this, the AN seat could be cut off flush with the threads. There are a number of aluminum adapters to adapt AN8 (1/2" JIC) to M20x1.5. Finding one in steel was a little more challenging, but I found one here: https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9067-08-20-12-jic-male-x-m20x15-metric-male.html To test this idea, I used an old AN8 to 1/2 NPT adapter I had in my shop, and installed it on my parts bike motor. I was able to thread it in perfectly, and had to use a ratchet & socket to tighten it. Since the fitting has a hex, it was simple to use a 7/8" or 22mm socket to install & remove it. I'm unsure how the hex would affect those that just want to run a filter though. It may prevent the filter from sealing. The Bales adapter has no hex, so I think this may be the case. If I end up trying one of these, I'll connect an OEM filter to it and see how that affects sealing. EDIT #2- Solved I found the Trans-Dapt #1034 oil filter nipple on Eblag for about $6 shipped. It's a 3/4-16 part with segregated sections and no hex just like the OEM part. I downloaded Wix filter data since they offer it by thread size, and found there are more compatible filters in 3/4-16 than M20-1.5. Since my adapter plate has both 3/4-16 and M20-1.5 fittings, I'm going to try this part. While browsing, I did find what appears to be a 3/4-16 x M20-1.5 adapter made by Mocal, PN TN3/4XM20. The only place it is available is BAT Inc. in Sarasota, Florida, a site that deals mainly in imported cars (BAT is British American Transfer). The page with the adapter is here (PDF file). That site does not accept online orders, you have to call them. They also have a handy page here (PDF file, pages 12-14) that lists filter thread sizes for many years & makes of cars as well as filter sizes by engine model. Filters Wix allows you to search filters by thread size here. From the first drop-down, select the Lube, Hyd, Trans, P. Steering, Torq. Converter line , then select Spin-on Lube, Hyd, Trans, P. Steering from the next drop-down, then select the size from the page that loads. For 3/4-16 filters, the Wix 51395 is less than .2" longer than the OEM Suzuki filter, it has the same gasket dimensions, and the bypass PSI is listed as 8 vs 8-11 for the OEM. They also make a 57890 that is .6" shorter, but has the same OD and gasket. I will likely try that one since my plate will add about an inch to the height. For 20-1.5 filters, the Wix 51358 is the exact same size and gasket data, but it has the same 8 vs 8-11 bypass spec. Either of these can be crossed over to your favorite brand of filter, I was just interested in dimensions and gasket sizes.