Gixer1460

Yes they are all the same - frictions are 2.6mm thick and steels are 2mm thick. The slave cylinder movement sounds too small though - 2.2mm spread across the pack is less than 0.1mm between any plate? I know they only have to crack but i'd expect more? Just looked on Alphasports and Blandit clutch has fewer plates and fibres are mostly thinner - so the Blandit slave could be the issue?

They ain't stock rods - from any GSXR that i've seen! And marks on the crank are - I'd guess - from a failed rod, smashing its way out of the crankcases! I'd also suspect the crank hasn't been rebalanced to take account of those rods / bolts! Edit - i've obviously not seen enough 750's LOL! - they are too small to be real engines though!)

Rotor hasn't got a 'key' - its a taper fit. The starter clutch to rotor bolts OFTEN fail - they are High Tensile types, quite brittle and shear if there is any movement possible. Radical solution is tack weld the starter clutch to the rotor x3 or drill both for a dowel / roll pin + bolts with loctite! And you build an engine like that and you haven't got a puller - shame on you LOL! There are two sizes - if its a GS1100 crank, its a small taper, if GS1150, its a big taper.

Why do you keep harking on about the Keihin jets - we all know they are wrong so throw the fuckers in a bin and move on! With them removed, either of the two you've shown will fit and thanks to Ted M, the stock jet is shown above - it has the identification groove so buy 4 of those and fit them. You will now have a set of carbs that work and can be tuned - they may not be 'correct' but at only £7-8 each you ain't going to bankrupt yourself.

Unlikely - its the increased / turbulent airflow with K&N / S&B / Foam types that screws up carb function not the material. Some carbs like dual pods but some work ok with individuals - I had individual cone S&B's on my 750 ET but used a Ledar jet kit and they worked great.

You are either not understanding or refusing to listen to the advice - you need a baseline to get the carbs working properly - not correct, just working. If you want correct via internet tuning then good luck with someone's best guess otherwise get yourself down to a dyno and do it properly. But you'll still have to fit some jets regardless which if swapped during a dyno tune, you may or may not get charged for them. Otherwise you may as well throw them in the bin and buy some new ones!

#15 is the info I got to on the Alpha Sports parts site. Thinking outside the box - both have a M4 thread and the bit that is different sizes must go into a drilling larger than 2 / 2.5mm but smaller than 4mm to allow fuel to flow around? If the jet size is #15 in both cases, I would suspect the variable bit will make 2/10ths of FA difference. You need to take the Keihin Pilot out and see what size orifice is below it?

With lots of boost, the plastic ones can't take the strain - generally waaaay more boost than is sensible for road use - not hearsay either, seen it happen!

There's a surprise LOL! Suggest fitting some stock size Mikuni Pilots to at least give a baseline!

Would it be too obvious to say remove one and measure the tip or look for the Jet type ID Ring?

Definitely - with the filers you are using, most people experience the 'hole' off idle and into the mid range - most solve it with a Dynojet kit but I don't think one is available for the 750ET (wasn't when I had mine!) Either get some miles on it with plug chops or get a dyno pull to see what's happening under load. The std. needle is the problem - jet changes either side help but it is metering the fuel in that critical phase!

How many hours are on that plug? Looks fairly new - is it taken directly from a plug chop - at what rpm? How does the current jetting compare to std. specification?

Although BS may work at MOT time - they don't use noise meters so why try arguing the toss - hold your hands up and just toe the line. Inconvenient ? yes, but if you get the ticket your golden! Regulation level in the UK for new bikes is between 82 and 86db and police may give some slack upto 90db for 'wear & tear' So the Manx ministry man is being more than generous @ 98db!

AFR - not too bad, its safe rich, not slobbery rich - maybe 122.5 MJ could help? Deffo slightly fatter pilot will help. And with all that weight on the clutch - I should hope it doesn't slip LOL! I just have screws and nuts for many hundreds of hp's

I never experienced any problems - Regular Pingle out, 8mm pump in, 6mm regulator outlet to (maybe 4/5mm) tank return. It was a fairly forceful return as you could hear it hitting the underside of the tank top! I worked with what I had - pointless butchering a good tank if ghetto solution works - which it does LOL!

I just reread what I wrote - and it doesn't make any sense ! ! ! Why would anyone vent their carbs to the fuel tank ! DOH! If this was a EFI system then yes the bypassed fuel return would go back to the tank, even a high pressure pump with regulator and back to tank - either way they should be above fuel level otherwise a syphon could occur when shut off which would backfill the carb and into the engine ! ! ! Don't know about Blandits but on a GSXR the pipe that goes from the gas filler well, through the tank to drain out the bottom is a water drain not a tank vent - I know this as I cut mine, blocked the well drain at the top and use the bottom connection for my EFI fuel return!

DIY is great if you have the 'tools' to do everything! Ultrasonic cleaning is generally the best way for deep / extreme cleaning and then a full service - gaskets, o rings, etc. Some companies can do complete carb racks but home kits best broken down individually and disassembled! Carb problems are rarely quick or cheap to cure.

I'm a bit confused as I thought Blandits tank breather was through the gas cap? That hole is normally the fuel gauge and if that pipe has been fitted in that hole its non standard. As said the pipe should go above fuel level - at all times - if being used as a carb breather! Turbo bikes aren't 'plug and play' - really you need to start with a bike that runs good NA, then big bore it, then when that is running ok, turbo it! You seem to have a lot of problems that could be caused by a lot of things ........ maybe take a step back, take turbo kit off and get it running half decent first?

S&S carbs are great for racing and running 'ditch pump' motors! . . . . . . change to an HSR, it will be like night & day!

If this is the one ? Thickness 5mm Pilot hole size 5mm Material Special magnetic stainless steel Teeth 36-1

I think they are steel, CI isn't the best stuff to laser cut! If worried about material - braze with silicon bronze? Lower heat and easy to do?

Got those in mine! But I think a lot of the problems is from over revving the engine / buzzing them on a missed gear change at high revs. Peak power is normally well down from the red line so stay away from it and all will be good - hopefully?

It can be, but not easily - why? - The 'M' head works fine . . . . . unless it's camshaft reasons?

Frankenstein & Barking mad ! ! ! I assume the front tyres are of no practical use except to stop the front end dragging on the floor?

DOH - I am a fuckwit! I was looking at the screws like they moved and not the slots that moved - this retirement lark fucks with your head man! @mrutah12- you have the beauty of a dry GS / GSX ignition which means you can hook up a timing light triggered off #1 plug lead and time it when running - bliss! Try doing that with a GSXR and you end up wearing the contents of the sump before you are finished LOL! I bet if the plate was set more centered in the slots starting would be easier!