Gixer1460

Still a Venhill Product but not £60 ! . . . . . https://motorcyclepartswarehouse.co.uk/venhill-universal-1-35m-single-throttle-cable-kit-black.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPJ75w02sepE3wqixRHyHOjUGY0qC7Vo2raasZJdNxHMiS0fHnrQYBsaAlZUEALw_wcB Its a little bit under 4' 6" in old money - not sure how that compares to what you need?

SPA are nice gauges - just don't get them cold / damp as the liquid crystal display fails and they ain't cheap when 4 out of 5 fail - trust me!

OEM plates, sold as singles, are in individual bags with Suzuki label and part #'s - Non OEM usually in complete sets and in a single box. If is says EBC - run a mile LOL!

As said - its not recommended, cases are bored for bearings as a matching set, but cranks and other shafts having roller / ball bearings, are a little more tolerant so may be ok with mismatched halves! If it was a shell bearing engine, its really a no-no without line boring and using oversize shells!

Simple physics lesson coming up! All carbs have a restriction in their bore called a venturi (narrowing of bore). Due to the restriction this causes, air has to speed up through it and whilst speeding up the pressure lowers - called depression. The depression is what 'sucks' fuel out of the jets. So, imagine the carb sitting at idle, the slide is down, restriction is massive but airflow is low so the jets only meter enough fuel to suit the airflow. If the slides are lifted too quickly, the restriction is removed, airflow 'should' increase but as its at idle, it can't accelerate quick enough to breathe deeply and airflow stalls. At the same time, because the restriction has disappeared, the airflow slows and because of that its pressure increases (loss of depression) and as a consequence fuel is not drawn out of the jet so readily. Hence you have to match the slide opening speed to engine speed to depression and fuel flow. RS carbs artificially add extra fuel into the airflow using accelerator pumps giving richer mixture to wake the engine up. Long answer for simple question LOL!

Looks like the Wiseco icon in the oval to me! Are you sure its 73.5mm? As the part # looks like 4064 which is a 73.00mm bore . . . . https://powersports.wiseco.com/k1085 If it was a 73.5 the piston # would be 4066 . . . . . https://powersports.wiseco.com/k1100 The correct rings are listed on the appropriate page.

IMO a volt meter won't do much to indicate charging problems as a battery will show 12v till it's pretty terminal. My preference would be an ammeter as it will show discharge instantly or monitor charging and electrical usage.

How you got a 'brand new GS750 crankshaft'? That's gotta be rarer than a rare thing that's come from the rare school of rarity!

I don't think those carbs have accelerator pumps like the RS series do, so you can't 'snap' them open like a CV carb - they have to be opened progressively! It becomes a riding style thing that you'll get used to!

Could you pls explain the 2nd one as in my experience the first bit is true, in that without restriction or constriction, you can't measure pressure? ie. if a boost pipe blows off the manifold there is no measurable boost although the turbo is still spooled and blowing air. And the second part is confusing as, if two turbo's are run side by side, one flows 600cfm and the other 300cfm, both at a pressure of 1bar, and both fueled correctly for the air volume - which makes more power? I respect your thinking, I just don't understand it this time LOL!

Is it fitted the right way round? They can be 'refitted' with sealant if care is taken.

Maybe worth looking into the possibility of swapping the whole basket, hub and pressure plate from the 1100W and fitting a 1000 or Busa multi stage? The latter certainly can take that sort of power? May require some clever engineering but better than tearing up plates every 5 minutes?

I don't know what's wrong but that plug ain't right Never seen one part company like that! If its seized or cross threaded it normally just pulls the threads out, so hope its not and that the thread just unscrews like normal. Interesting numbers predicted by the calculator in last pic

The Dyna 'S' does rely on the mechanical ATC but has used this for ages - tried, tested and quite reliable! Re : Oil pressure / GS's / Turbo's - if you can get the pressure up to about 30psi, its sufficient for plain and ball bearing units. Just because you may have a ball bearing cartridge doesn't mean low oil pressure is ok as most have a plastic bearing race that needs the oil flow in sufficient quantities to stop the plastic melting! Wide ring gaps isn't necessarily a 'good' thing as blow-by into the crankcases brings its own problems! A ring gap set for NA with 2-3 thou extra is about right IMO

Nah!

Once above 33 - 35 deg its largely immaterial ! Ideally you want more timing in the low- mid range @ light throttles but can't be done with a 2D ign. system!

'If you can't bare the heat, don't stand in the fire' What you are proposing won't really address the basic problem - lack of airflow! A bigger cooler will add capacity but won't cool any / much better if standing still or with poor airflow and once you do get to decent speed it 'may' over cool the oil! Top end cooler - same airflow problem although cool oil to the head is never a bad thing. You may not be able to fit a fan AND a big rad to the front of the engine but what about fitting a secondary rad and fan behind the engine / under the seat with the fan on a thermostatic switch & relay? You get increased oil capacity, only adds cooling when required and will not look like an oil-cooled bike! I don't have a front rad on my turbo GSXR just a std rad under the seat with an R6 fan and thermo switch in the sump - it does work!

I'd talk to a Garrett, IHI or Mitsubishi turbo distributor and ask their advice as they should be able to calc the right core, housings and wheels to suit, otherwise its guesswork. But you are probably looking at something like a GT15 (that is just the family - many variants of that basic unit). Anticipate max. 120hp @ 7psi and peak power at 8,500 - 9,000rpm. You can keep the points although the whole system may be lacking under boost pressure. Slotting the backplate to allow movable timing is easiest way - better way is swapping out to a more 'modern' electronic system . . . . a Dyna 'S' may suit. The Wiseco pistons are good IF you can stay away from adding a 'bit more' boost, as at 10+ :1 CR, much more will induce detonation especially with std pump gas!

I don't do 'roundy, roundy' stuff and I know everyone has different abilities but the first minute of that was embarrassing - getting passed inside, outside - everyside. They are the sort of riders as described by @bluedog59 above, I think?

Who mentioned 'G' marked cams? If it was the reference 'G4' above - that is a grind profile from (I think) Web or Cammotion in the USA.

No it's not!

What if it does? It'll be atmospheric side of the butterflies so effectively, in free air. Only done by OEM's for emissions purposes.

Air has to move in and out of the crankcase unless you are using a dry sump system and then you vent the holding tank - no one way valves!

Sounds familiar . . . . . .

Absolutely - they are the best for ANY engine!