Gixer1460

Ditto! A welded repair would need heat treating but with a cast steel crank not so easy!

With your target HP, I think you'll struggle on pump gas in CA! Way back my GSXR made 370hp on 110 RON race gas and it is a 1460! Boost was maybe around 2 bar! Boost affected valve float can be down to either piss poor spring pressure or excessive boost. With GSXR sized valves I think you'd be into VERY big boost or you'd forgotten the inner spring from a dual spring set up! Using big lift / duration cams doesn't help valve cooling - minimising seated time is what burns / melts them. It doesn't take much either to start making the stems malleable, then the heads snap off + carnage! You are trying to do two different things with one bike . . . . . . a 'ridable' street bike ie. good manners, doesn't stall or over-heat during use and also a Top Speed miler. It may only be 'for fun' but the engine don't know that - all it knows is you are asking for WOT for a mile+ and that is a lot of power / heat generation and for that application cooling = drag = slower! As regards ring gap, a 'maybe happy medium' would be 0.006" / 0.006" - it may smoke a bit but shouldn't seize especially if you do make the boost for 400hp.

Could be fuel but also Ignition - excessive retard or no advance from idle wouldn't help! At low rpms quoted there shouldn't be excessive heat - something is wrong, not bad tuning - its wrong!

? ? ? ? - those didn't have 36mm's only 34's. It would appear that Suzuki San standardised the inlet spacings on the GS / GSX 16v engines through to end of the oil boilers so most will swap around.

Unfortunately yeah - its knackered / well past its best! Compressions should be around 150 - 200psi with minimum about 140psi! with approx 25psi variation cyl - cyl. Oil pressure (hot - 60 deg C) should be between 45 and 85psi, cold it would be nearer the 85 than 45, so looks like the pump, isn't! Its getting rid of the oil somewhere and at a guess, its bypassing the rings! Regarding being 'hot', have you checked ignition timing?

Arttu, Only say as I find. Fitted a new clutch to a 1200 Bindit (fibres and steels) used Mobil One oil and clutch lasted approx 50 odd miles. It felt 'odd' from the off and eventually the fibres glazed over and it spun enough to blue all the steels! Never used fully synth again, never had a similar problem. This was a good while ago and synth oil may be better these days 'but once bitten' as they say.

As an aside - there is no need to use 20w50 oil in this engine. There is no benefit (unless you are maybe in a desert @ 40+ deg C) and the increased viscosity leads to increased drag. 10w40 mineral was recommended back when new but modern oil technology has moved on so similar weight oil using SEMI synthetic formulation would now be acceptable. DO NOT USE Fully Synth oils - even Bike branded ones as they are too slippery for old clutch materials! As said - any engine over 55-60 deg C is pretty much untouchable - 100 deg C is boiling water temp . . . . would you stick your hand in a kettle? An IR thermal heat 'gun' is a better tool than a gauge - just check after a ride. Sub 100 deg C and you are fine, over and either a cooler would be a good idea or halve your oil change routine so oil doesn't get 'cooked'

it is, or at least it was! Who knows if its survived the EFI onslaught LOL! Used on Froggy cars a lot so lightly a metric thread compatible with Jap carb as would sizes - still sounds too big though!

Most of the time if you 'hear' knock, damage is already done! Is this the stuff you are dosing with - Wynns Lead Substitute, 250 ml ? If so, you are massively overdosing as 1ml doses 1 Litre of fuel ! And @ £10 a bottle it'd be loads cheaper to fill up with ESSO Super which is ethanol free and 98 octane. BTW - lead isn't needed in any Jap bike since the 70's. Is the DOT head on a Blandit or GSXR type bottom end as at a guess, you maybe over 12:1 CR without much overlap to mitigate it. Heating up an engine can be caused by lots of things - CR is one, jetting is another, low cooling and ambient temps won't help nor will over advanced Ignition etc. Putting 'cool' plugs in won't help cool the engine - they run cooler themselves by dumping temp into the head, so they may reduce 'pinking' but will also foul easier as they can't burn off the contaminants as easily! You have all the ingredients to produce knock, so why not minimise those first as you'll likely have to address some if not all of them anyway? Usual tuning position is Start Safe then move towards limits - you sound like you may or may not be at the limits without knowing where safety actually is. My approach may be cautious but it works and I've never needed / used a knock sensor yet. BTW, are you using electronic, mapped fuelling / ignition control or Carbs and 2D Ignition?

Improvements in efficiencies will skew the results but 'generally, as a rule of thumb' - 1 bhp needs 'x' volume of fuel in a linear fashion.

OEM's spend loads of design hrs and £££ to get that right! A boss is usually cast in for the sensors. Bosch is a popular make and they use either M8 or M10 studs into a substantial bit of metal.

Knock sensors need to be secured to the block or head, solidly to get the hi frequency vibrations so I think the rubber inlets will isolate the carb rattles. Bike engines are pretty mechanically noisy so could give false signals?

Watch out - you'll be labeled as adverserial LOL !

Maybe but 140 odd hp against std 100hp is a 40% increase in fuel so . . . . .!

Personally, i'd prefer this position with other electricals behind and facing it! Centralised weight and closer / neater wire runs?

And two more things - exhaust / plug colour is a very unreliable tell tail these days with ethanol doctored fuel, and secondly, without putting the engine under load ie. on the road, you won't have a Scooby Doo what the engine wants to run right! In neutral and in the garage will tell you nothing except it runs!

Some people say the taps 'Prime' setting works good for WOT - i'm not convinced! Why would you need to fill float bowls at max flow rate? A reasonable dribble will do the job in about 30 seconds. If so, fuel starvation is a possibility in your case ie. when you need the flow into the bowls it ain't there! 145 MJ's probably fitted to cope with the free flow K&N's - more air needs more fuel! You could source some screw in nipples to make a vacuum line connection to the inlet rubbers / adapter plates / or even into the carb bodies.

I believe Yam R6's and R1's use Jel types - what size - I don't know but based on the bike, fairly small I guess? That Lithium pack above is a pretty good find and they are ridiculously powerful for their size but factor in a dedicated charger (just in case!) Had a check on Yuasa site - https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/ytz10s/?vehicle_type=motorcycle&vehicle_make=yamaha&vehicle_year=2010&vehicle_model=yzf-r6-excl-r6s&vehicle_id=31147 A bit bigger in width but shorter in height?

Thanks - I've never seen one up close hence the Q. Plus the bracing looked 'DIY' but obviously isn't!

What about a gel type on its side in the tailpiece ?

No need if the engine is std. Most jet kits are designed to work with all the parts provided - selective parts use could lead to odd problems.

LOLs - Project Binky should be required viewing for any modification project - even for a simple bracket!

What frame is that?

You might just squeeze a YTZ7S in there, they are rated at about 5-6Ah. Which, personally, I wouldn't fit to a moped ! A Turbo with extra electrical loads - Nah !

Why not! Make a cardboard air box in place AND that you can get out without chopping the frame up, glass it up with a few layers, cut holes for rubbers and glass in some mounting brackets - jobs a goodun. To get rid of the cardboard after its all set up, just soak in water and it'll virtually dissolve. Fitting in baffles / filters might be a head scratch time but not impossible? Course you could do it in metal but cheap and cheerful costs a lot less if it goes pete tong!