Gixer1460

IMO - valve weight difference is negligible especially if you use Ti retainers. Most spring changes required due to cam profiles or higher rpm limits - keep those in order, no change required - check spec's though, they do sag with use / age! Are OEM guides even available? I would guess anything whether steel or bronze will be aftermarket pattern parts. So if the old ones can be pressed out, there is no reason that either material couldn't be shrink fitted as replacement. Its fairly involved as guide bores should be honed to valve stems then v. seats and spring seats cut / ground to match new guides and obvs x16 its not cheap job! And I don't think i've ever heard anyone say no to SS valves in OEM guides!

Yes, but the pump has to be capable of supplying a) the fuel pressure required ie. Boost + static pressure and b) flow to match the power output @ the required boost pressure! A small EFI pump can usually do the pressure but flow can tail off to the point that bowls could run dry / not fill sufficiently. A Facet pump (as above) for instance would struggle with much more than 5-6psi boost.

Ah - so it's an oldskool drawthrough set-up.

Trying to get those regulators down to 1-2psi for NA operation is tricky . . . . . can be done but they are better suited to 5+psi used with auto float needles or with turbo boosted pressure applications.

And they go / flow even better with 30/26's in them M & N heads universally accepted as best stock flowing heads, its just no one trusts the shims (which on a relatively low revving, peak power 'big' engine shouldn't be an issue). Question - why would Suzuki san put the 'best' flowing head on the most under performing engine in its line-up?

Just find an interrupter type pump - H***a NTV's / Dullvilles have them. When the bowls are full the back pressure holds the contacts open so pump stops. I think Yam R1's have similar pumps before they went EFI and would be sized for 125 - 140hp?

Yeah, it equals about 3/4 chain link so slotted sprockets advisable.

Its all in the clutch baby, its all in the clutch!

Either work - former is mechanical advance, latter is electronic. I think Dyna subcontracted a lot of their production to the Far East and quality has suffered although i've never experienced any failures so who knows! If you use a Dyna S with ATU you must use a GSX ET type deep cover - EFE type too shallow! EDIT - As regards performance, anything that deliver a spark at the right time, reliably, is as good as can be got, performance wise! The Dyna 2000 may have more features, most are gimmicks - preset advance curves, no advantage using anything other than #1! Retard will use curve #1 anyway and adding pressure switches is a PITA and I found no benefit at all. The kill wire is really course / laggy IMO and proper kill switches work better. Maybe the 2000i with a user programmable ign. curve is 'ok' but it is a bit limited. I like Dyna stuff and used loads then I discovered EFI which has Sooooooo much more potential I don't consider going back!

Most workshop manuals will have an exploded carb diagram (usually not the best view) all labelled, A maintenance section for everyday tuning and a specifications section that usually details carb settings!

Only cos they can't spell it correctly!

And sodder, even though it's spelt correctly - solder!

Wouldn't be surprised - YouTube expert so must be right LOL

First - is the Idle screw I identified accessible externally when the bowl is in place? Second - I should have realised these were Slide carbs (not what I'm used to) so the idle jet setting may be waaaay off ! Third - Looking at my Haynes Bike Carb Manual and GS1000 fiches, that external screw in 2nd picture is titled an 'Adjuster' by Suzuki LOL! Haynes indicates it is probably a Pilot Air Screw. I guess its function is to widen the mixture range of the Pilot Fuel jet which has a fixed orifice, changed only by swapping jets. If you haven't already - GET A MANUAL ! ! ! It will help a lot.

It's likely been over tightened! They are pretty much 'order in' items, unlikely a normal bike parts place would have them on the shelf.

EDIT - Brain fart time! I don't know why I thought u meant the big primary gear - excuse my senility!

Late? - as in, has water mixed in or is it still an oil boiler. The water powered one's still go in but would be a PITA having to add all the plumbing!

See Image - all identified. All have to be 'lightly bottomed out' in their working condition except the Idle mixture jets / screw which are usually between 1.5 - 2.5 turns out from seated point to adjust the idle mixture (really clever naming huh! LOL!) I like to remove the MJ's from the emulsion tubes before fitting the ET's so they seat correctly with decent pressure then MJ's go in and get lightly tightened, enough to avoid vibration loosening!

I believe there are three big steel rivets that secure the basket to the gear. You'll have to either grind or drill the heads off to release and then again source some new rivets and secure them using many tonnes of press pressure! They can be seen on the parts fiche . . . . . https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2003/gsx-r750/clutch - its a 2003 750 clutch but the Blandit fiche is shite and barely shows anything, anyway the three round things on the back are the rivets, and guess what they ain't available from Suzuki! Aftermarket suppliers of Tuning parts can supply them!

Some will re-use, some will re-place - no right answer! If it is still fresh ie. hasn't had any significant heating / cooling, i'd probably re-use with the RTV but if it shows a defined imprint of the case or pan it could be a marginal call for re-use!

Personally I wouldn't use any AN6 fittings on cooling circuits an oil cooled engine - i'd even get twitchy using 8's unless absolutely bone stock - other opinions may differ

If the torques are correct, the pan could have a slight bow in it that the previous gasket accommodated? Pan has to come off to check. If it is bowed then you can try surfacing it with fine emery on a glass sheet or just add a SMALL bead of RTV between gasket and pan to take up any irregularities.

With a push / pull throttle set up I'd loose the stock spring completely or add an entirely remote spring - like a lighter coil spring - if you require 'auto' close. Also bare in mind a 'Quick Action' throttle will make any throttle action much heavier - great with CV's but murder for slide carbs!

^^^ Nice solution to pipe avoidance With a top fed radiator (nothing wrong with bottom feed btw!) you have a little more scope for maybe turning the fittings toward the centre and then running hoses down front of cylinders between 2 & 3, then separate around the filter? Just a thought!

Undercutting helps the dogs 'lock in' when under power and most OEM gears have a degree of undercut but when racing it can be insufficient. An engine builder / transmission shop should be able to do the work which is fairly precise to match angles between gears and around the dogs so they all contact at same time. That dog ring does seem somewhat battered / worn out. I'm not strong into gearboxes - to many iddy biddy pieces so I leave it to peeps who know better!