Gixer1460

More usually, instructions are included in the box! So why do you need to know beforehand?

Shock and Clutch - lots of time, effort and usually money to make these work together, when they don't it's a wasted pass! Bike looks stout so should go well when sorted.

Sean @ BigCC tried bigger exh valves years ago with the Kat engine and for whatever reason it gave no improvement, in fact it was worse in places, so wasn't pursued ever again. Hope it works for you.

A M8 who is the wrong side of 60 and doesn't get to ride much, built a '96 Blandit, 1216 kit, GSXR lightened crank and clutch, reworked head, std valves & cams, RS36's and a Ackro Carbon system and it makes 152whp. He rode it last week after messing with the throttle return and apparently it was back to what it used to be, lifting the front on demand and quick enough that is starting to show deficiencies in the Hyperpro front and the Ohlins equipped aftermarket back end. He was 'cheshire cat' type grinning as he told me about it LOL! A Blandit is never going to be a GSXR or a Blade but they can be equally entertaining from his experience I think?

Regarding 'airbox' or more correctly Plenum, flow or ease of flow and correct distribution of air to all inlets is important in that it is free power, ensuring correct air to each cylinder equalises power meaning no one cylinder has to be richer / leaner to run right. But as said air pressure stacks up against any joint and the pressurising / un-pressurising will fatigue joins over time if excessive pressure is used. Being conservative with boost helps or over engineering the piece if over boosting often will be a requirement. Most any arrangement will be ok at 1bar and if pushed 2bar but above that any 'simple' construction - all bets are off LOL! There are plenty examples of alternative plenum designs used successfully AND some that weren't - pick what will work for you and copy it, and you won't be far wrong, I copied my first one from a Hahn Racecraft design, I drew it up and had it fab'd up - its still going strong as far as I know, some 30 yrs later!

Deffo agree with this - minimise 'box section' joints as much as possible, ie rounded tank ends, using round tube rather than fab'd up boxes. Even good welding can be blown apart under boost pressure but good welding will definitely survive longer than piss poor efforts LOL! And cure for distortion of the flanges either secure to head or a fixture before / during welding or make them thicker, allow for distortion and mill flat & true after! Or just use turned spigots that fit into std. rubber inlet manifolds, then minor distortion is not a big issue.

Not easily though! And their Litre class bike engines have often made 500+whp ! That says a lot to me!

I must be missing something here as my 1st turbo build - a suck through Garrett T2 and S&S carb made 205whp @ 10psi boost. No intercooling obviously but I doubt not a lot more boost would have made 250 but it was Max'd out at 10 lbs. Yours is more sophisticated so I would have expected better numbers?

Ooooh that'll be a bit controversial - raising comp plus high inlet temps = recipe for detonation!

With respect, those aren't big numbers compared to a performance NA cam set - 256 deg is little more than std and they've spread the LCA - always advisable with boost to reduce overlap. As a comparison my Krol cam specs are 248 deg in / 245 deg ex, 9.3mm lift, with 111 deg in / 109 deg ex. I guess if (like you) you are intending to make huge boost, higher lift numbers are required, which by necessity / geometry, will increase duration. The cams i've quoted were designed for my engine spec - by people a damn sight brighter than me - so I trust they could deliver the ultimate target (which unfortunately is less than you've achieved LOL!) But generally the advice stands - shorter duration with less overlap and highest lift possible, will suit a boosted package that max's out at a lower rpm.

If heat is a problem at such a low boost number, I don't think water injection will make a significant difference - it's a fundamental turbo efficiency problem as it's being pushed beyond its 'happy place'.

They may have more lift as a big single valve will generally have less valve area compared to two smaller ones. You can achieve smaller overlaps but the ramp angles and valve acceleration become too extreme to control. It has always worked best to stick with 'std' cams with turbo installs unless you had specific cams ground to minimise overlap whilst having decent lift - mine were done by Kroll Cams in the US.

I thought 'Ireland' both N and S, are still in 'Europe' as regards trade so delivery should be like other EU countries? Still a stupid situation though!

Big cams always come with large overlap numbers which is not what turbos want. No point making boost and blowing it straight out of the exhaust!

Problem is, as you can't determine what's caused them, you can only guess if there is more damage elsewhere! The piston damage isn't significant enough to prevent use, but if it IS detonation, and it continues, things will only get worse. I'd check compressions / do a leak down test to check rings and valves, check carbs and plugs (correct type) - basically a good service and see what happens. To save ripping the head off again in the future un-necessarily, one of those cheap bore-a-scopes may be a good buy?

Well, idle it down then - should idle reliably @900-1100rpm!

Bearing in mind the age of the bike and the clutch basket is likely to still be original - notches in the basket teeth isn't uncommon and will certainly not help smooth clutch operation. Also non Suzuki fibre plates aren't a good idea with these either. Loose chain also good call!

I'd say they're worn and based on your description of previous maintenance, long oil changes is never good for longevity. Pattern parts may be available but quality could be questionable!

Eh? Squish is used to force mixture into the centre of the chamber so that is where the best burn occurs.

Difficult to see but next piston seems blacker so either it's richer or this is leaner / timing too advanced? Seems focused on exhaust side - detonation usually seen all over unless particular hot spot!

Straight cut teeth may seem an upgrade but they aren't as they are weaker than helicals! Also the 750 gears are a different ratio to the 1100 and spin the clutch faster or slower - either way it was a mod favoured by Prostock dragbikes years ago. Only bonus is..... they are quieter LOL.

Try and do a google search for screw in vacuum nipple 3mm - you may find something that will fit in the broken cover, secure with liquid metal or epoxy & job done. Like this? . . . https://www.racing-planet.co.uk/vacuum-connection-d45mm-p-133849-1.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=google_merchant&utm_campaign=google_products&gclid=CjwKCAjwsMGYBhAEEiwAGUXJafU3BCuClUR2PM3pPbKtImF0aJ1Z8-2u5jUSa_oDRbTRwFMMPNbV5hoCDGIQAvD_BwE

Have to ask yourself, what caused the breakages and could it happen again if reinstalled? It may work ok but another break could cause catastrophic damage!

Probably because most cv's are full of plastic that is 30-40yrs old and been flogged to death in all that time! If you could obtain new cv's it would solve a lot of the problems!

Except copper ones!