Gixer1460

And the best manufacturer is the original OEM - even Funnybike drag racers use them in preference to any other! A lock-up has the advantage that you can use std. springs for nice 'easy to use' normal riding with the lock-up adding clamp pressure when its required!

The geezer uses a mechanical scavenge pump though!

Coils used to have screw in terminals for wires but the OEM's (well certain ones) changed to glued / potted in ones - they would say for 'reliability / weather resistance' but the cynical among us would say, why sell a new lead for £10 why you have to fit a whole coil for £100! *ondas still have screw in terminals so you could obtain some S/H? they are dead reliable and will work with a Suzuki or just cut the defective lead off whilst leaving a 2" tail and use a HT lead joiner and attach the new lead! This looks an ok part - https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/125476590873?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dOrX9oOo3Y6mLeSrq_P9an5OREpKdnRfXsJJe3a1ZFyFjXWsu0MSNBoCk3kQAvD_BwE

Its certainly not right! The 'dent' looks like someone attacked it with a hammer and nail! Looking at the surface there is little evidence that its been surface ground or face milled, so bearing in mind the potential deck height difference, I'd hazard a guess that someone tried DIY surfacing with emery paper and a sheet of glass, leaned on one side too heavily without swapping ends!

I think Suzuki claimed 71.7 ftlbs at launch, but review figures start at around 62 ftlbs to 65 and 68 ftlbs. Either way, not that impressive when compared to a GSXR1100 'L' that Suzuki claimed 85 ftlbs - and that was backed up in several reviews +/- 1 or 2 ftlbs LOL! A confusing quote . . . Why would a 'Faired bike' have / get less HP & Torque ! ! !

If that is the ring gap in the bore - oh dear, i'm not surprised its drinking oil. I'd guess in bore ring gaps should be 0.1 - 0.2mm with service limit x3 that? The amount of oil on the pistons and plugs is telling! Bore doesn't look bad but it is worn enough that there is no cross hatch hone marks visible . . . . . end of life IMO.

Yeah I've had it done with overbored GSX and GSXR barrels. From memory cut was about 30 - 40mm wide and 20 - 25mm deep. Whether it achieved anything was undetectable as it was done with other tuning work at same time but as the 1st shop that did it was a fairly successful race bike shop, I wasn't going to argue and demand proof LOL!

One of my daily's used to puff blue smoke on cold start-up, every day, never worried about it, it was just annoying. History of bike - was first owned by an old boy who did little miles, neighbour bought it to run up and down motorway for work and then sold it to me after about a year. At that time, it was 15 yrs old with 7k miles up from new! Leak down showed rings gone but at that mileage certainly weren't worn out so I had the rings changed and bore deglazed. It was like a new bike again and i'd guess the old boy never really loaded up the engine so rings never bedded in, and the bores glazed over so the rings would never seal. Sometimes the obvious isn't the problem - a leak down will point to the problem area and is a good diagnostic tool if available!

Generally yes, but the extra gearing loads the turbo making it work harder. Take a std geared gsxr, add a decent turbo and it'll easy take 3 or 4 teeth on the front and accelerate just like std.

What is different about the cam chain? All 1100's (1052 and 1127) used std roller chains! What does it say on the base of the barrels?

I think ^^^ nailed it - the effect is called a syphon, and it will continue once started until air enters the 'inlet' side. Law of Physics can be a bastard sometimes LOL!

Sounds more like ' I heard about this on the internet the other day' with no proof. As said above what about the axle and holding the sides of the van together with nothing between the doors. Then what happens once they reverse over the intended target - they have to winch it up off the ground and support it on what? Someone's dream I think - why f**k around when three big lads can throw an average bike into a van in 20 - 30 seconds and be gone!

I have to agree - they just aren't that good. Had to larf at removing the original lock, how long to remove the security bolts then replaced with std. cap heads when you can buy new security bolts! I know we've all done it but on a vid about 'security' its funny!

There used to be a video on Youtube (I think) or maybe it was hosted on Ian Kings Dragbike site showing the full process done by Brian Johnson in his shed - that guy had skills beyond his facilities - Respect! As skulls go, that's quite a slim one and pretty high compression as there is virtually no chamber to speak of!

Its as simple as air pressure / volume acting on the slides. When under boost, the amount of air passing through the carb is staggering and has considerable force behind it. Trying to close a slide carb against that pressure is nigh on impossible, therefore its almost a engine runaway condition - engine draws air & fuel, makes boost, more boost = more air etc. With a CV carb the fuel delivery is independent of the throttle blade position and due to the rotary operation its easier to close even with huge air pressure. But pair an HSR42/45/48/50 with a suck through turbo - match made in Heaven!

Linky no workee! And Turbo's and Flatslides? - NO!

std. disclaimer - insert here - Yes! Alternative question 'how are you going to fix them - if you want them fixed? . . . . . . . Swap the head to another 'less cracked' or one that will crack?

Its fairly standard on most multi valve heads - I'd hazard a guess that over 50% of any heads in use today will have some form of cracking. With the section of the metal present its inevitable!

LOL - carefully avoiding the question, are you a politician?

Can't say whats best as i've only used one set-up like that which is probably completely different to yours - 1186 kit 12:1 pistons 2mm plate, Draw through T2, S&S Shorty Super E, std. cams, rods, crank, head and using a Dyna 2000. Never changed the cam timing from when it was built NA, used it with NO2 and same with turbo - 110/110.

To save Dezza taking extra pics - looking at plug from wire side - Top Left = White, Bottom Left = Black/Yellow, Top Right = Orange/White and Bottom Right = Black/White.

Should be - some disassembly required! Unusual place to leak, sure its not the cam cover gasket and its tracking round?

The Dyno and I certainly noticed 1 tooth out - whether yours shared between in & out cams would be?

That really is taking the piss by Cometic considering you can get a whole complete engine gasket set for just about double the price - https://www.Eblag.com.sg/itm/115482360768?hash=item1ae348fbc0:g:0D4AAOSw6-Vi6SIr and Vertex are a good brand but not Cometic I wonder how much a full set from Cometic would cost ? ? ?

I see the pressure stated but according to Facet info here . . . . https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/G01J6S5HF the max pump pressure is 8psi! Are you sure it was the facet and not the HP efi type pump?