Gixer1460

Based on its use, and potential for more routine removal i'd advise a smear of grease one side or the other on assembly - it aids removal without tearing!

Definitely worn out!

Not wishing to state the obvious, but the wheel axle isn't currently anywhere near the forks axle clamps - when repositioned its gonna look like a chopper LOL!

I wasn't thinking about gap to get it in - that should be sufficient, it was locking it to the fork to prevent it spinning, as original forks have a stop lug cast in for this purpose!

No reason not to do it, if that's what floats yer boat! Biggest hurdles you'll have is matching all the braking components (whichever type you choose - GSX or GSXR) to either forks or wheel and mudguard mounting. Oh and you probably won't have space / fixing for the speedo drive either!

I'm confused? What's the difference except your recommendation is twice as much work? If you skim first you reduce the liner flange recess depth, so liners will protrude - unless you machine the recess as well then you might have to machine the cases to accommodate the 'dropped' liners. Most liner flanges can take a 10 - 20 thou facing cut without drama so why not install and face cut in one operation? Or is this all related to block bottom? Will 1075 cases accept bigger OD 1135 liners without boring?

See Clive's post above A lock-up adds height over the clutch so the cover needs a spacer which then requires an extended rack piece to maintain clutch operation.

I get what the OP wants, it was the errant reference to the GSX engine I found weird! Just because it has a cable clutch operation doesn't mean 'its' extended rack would fit or work. If it was me, i'd use (and I did x2) a hydraulic clutch (for which lock-ups are available) - its not as if you have to be subtle when a turbo is involved! Making a one off, hardened and ground extended rack for a hybrid 750/1100/cable/lock-up will likely cost what the whole clutch is costing - just sayin'

Seriously? You weren't aware of probably the most used motor in drag racing used a lock up! This is the engine it was first used on. If you need an extended rack for a 750 it's likely to be DIY!

A BIG one and really it should go between the supercharger and the cylinder head as Eaton chargers are pretty inefficient, so will be taking already hot turbo boosted air and making it hotter!

Found this below from Bennett's who know a bit about 'faking stuff' for insurance fraud - quite informative but not definitive! So, using the above info the frame number looks correct ie. font / type face and 11 characters seems correct. The engine number though - hmmmmm! The 'A' is clearly wrong, likewise the '1', the '3' and the '9' - only the '5' is about right. This doesn't mean its wrong or nicked or a knock off - dealers had the ability to stamp virgin cases from spares which came without.

No - think about it . . . . if the small dot is neutral, the shifter pawl goes past this to the blank bit for 1st gear ie. nothing needs to happen in first. Then changing up you pass through neutral, get 2nd then 3rd. Changes after this to 4th and 5th have no electrical outputs as nothing is required so there are no dots / contacts. I would guess that in the std suzuki ignition, when it sees that it is in 2nd it applies a bit of retard (to quieten the engine for noise tests) then when 3rd is selected it knows 'full power' settings can be re-established. Trying to diagnose electrical wiring and set-ups is difficult when they are not in front of you - so I can't speculate on what or what not to do, or what happens when wire A is connected to wire B etc. Sorry!

The ET variants i've seen have 5No brass dots + another, which is for neutral (usually between two equally spaced 'normal dots') Blandits have a similar arrangement but only 3No pins - 1st / neutral / 2nd. - this is to activate retard for noise tests! Busa ones are again similar but have 6+1 dots (6 gears obvs) but is a three wire system - 5v in / Ground / and gear volts out. This allows the Busa ECU to different gear based shit that most mortals don't understand. Your one seems to be missing some dots / contacts - maybe why it switches in 4th? I was working on using something similar in my turbo GSXR but wired like a Busa one so it would talk happily to my AMS1000 to allow different boost ramps / targets for every gear - good idea for a road bike, me thought! Yours doesn't seem to have a lot of wires so i'd suggest using a multimeter to see what is connected to what - a) to get full understanding and b) how to change it . . . . if you ever want to ?

We have a winner! That's how different boost available - oldskool, but it works!

Is the neutral switch 'just' a neutral switch? Not beyond the realms of possibility that a GSX type switch has been fitted that provides a separate ground via separate wires for each gear - that makes a pretty sensible solution given the box limitations?

I trust you've read the manual? - https://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/570456/precision-turbo-and-engine-nlr-ams-500-boost-controller.html Just on a brief glance it looks a damn sight more complicated than the AMS1000 i've got - but I haven't used mine for years so probably forgotten how anyway LOL!

Depends on what you need - I prefer having loads of oil volume through cooler by using -10! Big horsepower needs big cooling!

Re : the swingarm, my first thought was a bottle jack between, go slow and 5mm should be achievable! Pistons must be really old as no one seems to engrave the tops anymore! XC rings should be easy to get - decent engine builder or at worst Bay of E ! Bus rods - ask engine builders who build big HP turbo engines as will usually swap out rods for Carrilo, Falicon, Eagle, Arrows etc. or again Egay!

That's a fair price - couldn't really make a new replacement for much less!

Well, having Red permanently connected to the Orange is a bad move as all the circuits will be permanently live inc. ignition so you'll possibly overheat the coils and flatten / kill the battery through deep cycling! Lots of people delete the sidestand switch. I know it may be difficult to get your head around but just pick one circuit at a time - follow the circuit / wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to check for a) voltage and b) continuity (ie wires not having a break within the loom)

Arttu is the Oldskool EFI guru - running a efi Turbo'd GSX, plenty of others done - mainly on the oil cooled variety, but an engine is an engine regardless!

First off - just swap plug lead from #3 with #2 and vice versa - if the problem moves its electrical, if it stays its carb / fuel related (probably!)

Looks std GSXR11 with a different rotor - using that with std GSXR11 CDI will confuse the hell out of it. So, could you use the std GSX14 ECU running ignition only if using carbs fitted. Will the ECU actually work if it doesn't 'see' any injection stuff - possibly throw up errors? Are you talking GSX14 or GSXR11/7 'CDI' as the former is strictly an ECU. Otherwise see reply above. Its an interesting concept nonetheless!

Symptom all the time or does it run ok and then problem develops? If latter them maybe look at coils breaking down as they get hot - they are likely 40+ years old now!

No - it wouldn't work as the 1400 ECU needs the 1400 rotor which if memory serves me right, is on the starter clutch / alternator rotor like Busa's etc? To use a GSXR oil cooled ignition it has to be complete system - CDI, rotor and pick-ups and conversely EFI conversion needs the whole install so the ECU understands the signals its getting or not getting! EFI conversions are better served with aftermarket ECU's for flexibility in component selection.