Gixer1460

That's my thoughts also - if they do bottom, they are over-tight or rubbers are dead!

Firstly DON'T try charging the battery with a regular charger! I did something similar with a GSXR years ago - I had the tail off and I inadvertently turned the key to 'Park' so the front side light was on and as I was behind it, I didn't see the dim light! Killed a very expensive LA battery stone dead! Maybe similar ? Either that or something is 'on' when it shouldn't be ie. connected to a perm. live when it shouldn't be! Clocks and alarms are good for this!

'Tis very odd then! Correct carbs? I'm guessing they would be 34's but even with 36's they should seal, even when stretched!

OEM or pattern? rubbers. Wire clips unlikely to stretch so guessing poor rubbers?

That looks about standard for most starter soli / relays - Yellow/green would be from button press, black/white is an earth and the heavy Red will likely be connected internally to the battery via the main fuse under the cover. On earlier bikes they didn't feature a 'main fuse', just a normal fuse box between battery and powered items ie. GS's & GSX's. GSXR's tried a resettable circuit breaker - royal PITA, best junked IMO. The main fuse isn't so bad but they are usually exposed to road crap and can corrode to the point of failure and the spare carried alongside is usually as bad so you are in 'shit creek' either way LOL!

I don't believe that is the reason Suzuki included the pin! Unlike shell bearings, the cases aren't 'precision tolerance' machined as the roller bearings have a degree of tolerance in fit between the bearing outer race and the case, sufficient that, in use, the outer could spin in the case which is bad for the cases and the rollers as well - so the addition of the pin still allows the 'slack fit' and stops the potential spin simply. To the OP - unused bearings sitting on a shelf don't just 'go bad' unless the shelf happens to be outside! A surface layer of rust may look horrendous but careful cleaning, soaking in diesel etc. may get them back to acceptable use state - binning £1000 worth of new bearings + the labour to split the crank and rebuild it, would be hard to stomach for most people!

It's not the hose clamps - the OEM are designed for the job! - it's the rubbers, they go hard and eventually whatever clamp you use, they'll leak! You need some new ones to give a reliable seal.

Talk with a crank rebuilder - they have the tools anyway?

I'm no 750 aficionado so a 6sp is a 6sp is a 6sp to me LOL! Hmmm - lower in 1st, lower in top! You could run the 5sp and only use 4 lowest gears for roughly same relative gearing !

Well, 750RR 6th gear = 1.2:1 whilst GSXR1100L 5th gear = 0.91 (I didn't realise GSXR11 was overdrive top gear!) The primary ratio's are likely different between 750 / 1100 but they never get quoted! Its interesting looking at the two gearsets ratio's, I can sort of see the appeal of the 750 ratio's but still feel they are wasted for a 1100 Comparison 750RR 1st 2.38, 2nd 1.88, 3rd 1.62, 4th 1.45, 5th 1.29 and 6th 1.20 Whilst 1100 L 1st 2.38, 2nd 1.63, 3rd 1.25, 4th 1.05, and 5th 0.91

Eh? How does 15/45 get 216kph and 15/48 get 259kph when the latter is lower geared than the former ? 15/45 is std for 1127 GSXR if memory serves me correctly, 15/48 would be Blandit stylee !

That's pretty short gearing for an 1100 even with a 6 speed - I bet it's a lot of changes! The 14 front isn't good for the chain - 15 or 16 better and if you like the feel of current gearing then either a 51 or 54 respectively would match those fronts. IMO 15/45 is good all round ratio's

You are looking at electrics 'because it must be electrics - right!' Wrong, you've shown that you can get good reliable sparks that drop randomly across any cylinder so that would indicate the ign. system is functional. You changed the plugs and it runs on four . . . . . . a fouled plug often won't work! This points to carbs over fuelling IMO? It doesn't sound massive amounts but enough to foul a plugs in a random fashion unlike one cylinder always goes out due to a leaky float valve for example!

You'll hardly kill the engine by trying either - start with 3 and see if the engine is ok, if not try 3 1/4 and then 3 1/2. If you have a pipe and / or a can fitted, std. settings are guidelines anyway - use whatever the engine likes not what book says!

TBH - they are really only needed if the engine can make enough torque to slip the clutch whilst in gear or you use an 'instant hit' of power like Nitrous that can shock the clutch into slipping. Adding weight to the arms is the usual 'tuning method' although that is a bit agricultural! When racing (for that is what they were designed for) tuning involves clutch stack heights, air gaps, spring pressures, preloads and arm weights, so a simple one fix solution doesn't fit every situation. First off a GOOD working std. clutch will hold a good amount of power, it torque that makes a clutch slip - then if required add a lock-up but be mindful of what use it'll get as, like most things, one set-up will have pro's and con's for others. And if drag racing, be prepared to burn up fibres and steels whilst dialling it in !

I used a 19 row, std width Mocal cooler on my turbo Kawazuki and that never got daftly hot except when stuck in slow traffic exiting race meets etc. I had -10 oil lines for good flow and 4No crankcase breathers : -8 in filler neck, -10 in clutch cover, -10 in cam cover and -8 from head breather tower . . . . . . turbo's breathe hard!

Not sure Keihin jet threads are same as Mikuni as I seem to remember they used to bind up ! A 2mm difference in bore shouldn't mean carbs won't work - the 1127 engine went from 36's to 40's and worked well, although i'm sure the Suzuki & Mikuni development tech's spent MANY hours on a dyno getting the jetting correct! There is a moral there - 'If you don't understand what to do to correct it - don't fuck with it in the 1st place' LOL! BTW that test track is far to empty to be real !

Because the seals aren't doing their job and oil is getting effectively, 'burnt' hence turning to caramel!

Myths and rumours about bottom connected coolers abound - and they are all bollux! Its been discussed many times before on OSS - simply put, oil comes in one side and out the other. Any air will be pushed out with the first 'injection' of oil. Both ends of the oil lines are submerged below oil level and so, once cooler is full, it WILL NOT drain as air cannot get in to replace the oil - Nature hates a vacuum ! The cooler will only drain when you drain the sump! Its more likely crankcase compression is cause of blowing out a seal - its an unusual one to go, but it happens if non OEM seals used! If you are reaching those temps whilst 'cruising' I'd say your cooler is waaaaaay too small and needs an upgrade especially if dumping turbo heat into it also!

As said deffo not 'bling' and also not available in extensive ranges ie. straight, 45 deg., 90 deg., and maybe 180's - these are run of the mill bits, other may be available but maybe not off the shelf. Also tend to be 'crimp hose' types which can be a PITA sometimes!

You are going to get some aggro! a) you don't own a Suzuki and b) you are asking for info not at all related to Old Suzuki's . . . . . . so be aware! And c) you obviously haven't read the rules or a) and b) wouldn't have occurred!

Normally a gauge reading max indicates its sender wire is grounded - its usually a test to see if gauge is working, ie. ground the sender wire and gauge goes max scale! Obviously gauge has to be powered.

Listening to that . . . . . . . . what a mistake ! As stock, they came with small TB's cos the inlets were small also - all for torque not HP! Unless you hog out the inlets, larger valves, putting FCR41's is a exercise in futility!

Whilst you state you've added components and done some re- rewiring, both of which need some level of electrical understanding, your questions regarding what voltages to look for and what happens when bridging the starter soli, seem to indicate little knowledge? Its concerning me as a badly made wiring harness / poorly earthed component might not fail immediately / fail tomorrow / next week or year but it will cause problems, often with unrelated components or in worse cases melt the loom! Electrical problems being diagnosed over the internet are a guesswork nitemare - good luck, and btw, most of the suggestions are basic principles that shouldn't need suggesting! Flame me if you want but its why I tend to shy away from electrical queries!

That's a new one on me! My GSXR as been standing for about 10+ years and both brake MC's and clutch master function fine! Maybe if they stand after use / dirty / sub-standard anyway, then they suffer?