Gixer1460

Or alternatively with 'guesstimated' costs comparison . . . . In RED above.

Possibly true but reading into other stuff available - they are kits for largely older bikes - so slow moving stock, maybe some company has had a clearout / was closing down and stuff came as a job lot? Pointless waiting for top dollar if you can actually make a return on your outlay by selling cheap? Says they are in / from USA but contacts / phone is on Japanese time - f**king confusing LOL!

Ask Dave then! He builds good stuff but maybe 'forgot' to add a restriction? If you are seeing mist at the BOV - Imagine how much is inside the IC and other pipework! Or the turbo IS actually FUBAR ........... still what's another couple of £100's when you've already spent £000's LOL! Nice ET BTW!

Its a Blandit for god's sake - putting a 160hp engine in a chassis built for 100hp is a pointless exercise - unless you desire the company of Paramedics, Doctors and nurses! A GSXR had a far more capable chassis to cope with its std 125+hp. Blandits CAN be made capable but suspender mods and brake upgrades cost money as well and even then, they'll never scratch as well as their sport bike brothers. If the Blandit is what you want, and with limited money IMO, i'd get a decent SA, some HyperPro progressive fork springs, some decent brakes and then put a DOT head on the Blandit bottom end, with addition of Hayabusa mk1 pistons and maybe some 36mm RS flatslides, you'll end up with a torquey road tool with about 150 odd hp! A bike that can loft the front, on the throttle in 3 gears is a damn sight more fun than having 160hp @ 10,500 rpm that you never use!

What engine (i'm guessing oil boiler?) and do you have a oil feed restriction? The oiler engines make waaaaaay more oil pressure than is healthy for most turbo bearings - BB ones especially! A restriction that holds pressure down to about 30psi should be all the bearings need and avoid a rebuild?

Which technically do have a flat slide . . . . . so you are both right LOL!

In the UK - Left or centre dipping lights are acceptable. As long as they don't dip right - you're mint!

Totally different application - the one you've found is suitable for moderate axial and radial loads with a degree of misalignment. As said above, it needs to be a needle roller for load capacity. EDIT ! ! I've just checked the Fiche and that bearing IS for the dogbones so not a 'big' load carrier and mis-alignment is a possibility so the spherical bearing would work ok! Sorry for the misdirection! One thing to add is, that bearing has a oil groove and hole so if you can, drill and tap the lever for a grease nipple and it'll likely never wear out!

Yes you do, otherwise even as std., crankcase compression / blow by will push gaskets and / or oil seals out, so leading to leaks!

Holy Thread resurrection Batman LOL! Run them to a nice fab'd catch can or a tin can if you are tight or dumpy K&N vent filters if you don't mind the mess !

Difficult to give definitive answer as turbo response will influence ie. could be real slow starter then bam - 20psi or nice a linear climb to wherever the WG is set to. First one is dead tricky due to rate of change - ecu would maybe have to drop 20 degree's in less than a few engine revolutions. A dyno is the best place for evaluation - if in doubt, take more out than you think as its easier to put back into a running engine as opposed to one with holes in the pistons LOL!

As you are running moderately high CR i'd start with 1 Deg. per psi! You won't be able to run a lot of boost anyway so once you find it's ok you can wind it back slowly. High CR will get detonation earlier unless you have significant intercooling or other anti-det methods available!

I doubt you'll fine a video specific to your bike but a 'generic one', for a 4 cylinder, centre run STANDARD chain will be enough. A Hyvo chain as fitted to Blandits is slightly different (more fiddly) so best not look at that! It's a relatively simple procedure - I had to do one whilst on a dyno trying to set up some carbs, it took about an hour and a half and a few pairs of hands - two pairs is minimum as peening over the rivet link is a pain on your own!

Even 10 years! They don't become stiffer with age - quite the reverse. Dirt build up, incorrect assembly or something broken would be usual faults.

So - you've re-assembled it wrong! If clean and assembled correctly, they don't become stiffer!

If you can solder electronic components well / reliably then the DIY route of building a Megasquirt or Speeduino is a cheaper option (£225 - 400 - wow Mega's have gone up in price!!!) Then you'll need a fuel pump, throttle bodies (GSXR600's are good and quite cheap) various sensors and a crank trigger wheel. That will be sufficient to get a running and tuneable bike. A good addition would be a Wideband Lambda sensor and controller - helps tuning and running of engine + some controllers log parameters . . . . . . not a necessity but VERY useful. That lot should be sub £1000, maybe £800 . . . . .go on, risk it for a biscuit!

Has it got new fuel? The latest E10 is even more prone to water contamination so more carb problems crop up - particularly idle and low end running.

This apparently is a 1989 RMX250 - there are differences ! Maybe yours has aftermarket plastics ? VIN decoding to obtain a year is tricky for non OEM people!

Bandit with a 'hydraulic tensioner' ? ? ? I thought they ALL used spring tensioners! Just looked at APE instructions - it says 'if fitted with hydraulic tensioner' ie. in general terms - a blandit isn't!

It would be advisable to include it as it limits the amount of 'crush' put on to the bearings - without it they can be over tightened and wear prematurely! Strictly speaking taper rollers are 'overkill' for steering head bearings - the old 'cup & ball' races are fine for the job just a tad fiddly come maintenance time!

You are correct - its called progress LOL!

And probably a bit rate these days!

Cos it works better than the old shit that comes off !

Oh dear - that'll get the Dyna haters out LOL!

Before delving deep into the loom - just try a direct wire from SG to the CDI block, that will either reinforce or dispel that area for diagnosis!