Gixer1460

GSXR starter clutches are fairly reliable (when compared to those fitted on GSX AC bikes LOL) they either work or don't! The sprag rollers could be worn or the springs have lost tension which could be worst when hot as oil would be thinner? If the bolt had come undone, its really obvious and it wouldn't turn hot OR cold! I've never tried taking one apart and spare internals (if even available new back in the day, will be rare now) could be fitted, although whole unit replacement with a good used unit is generally cheaper option.

I'd personally disagree as it looks like the maker has attempted to get equal length pipe lengths, no particularly tight bends and pretty good flow direction into the collector! Obviously with raked out forks there is more space for bends and turbo placement - completely opposite to a road bike where manifold must be tight, compact and much harder to achieve equal length tubes (which isn't that important unless looking for max outputs IMO) And looking good and working is different to looking pretty - nothing wrong with looking pretty, but a hardcore racer won't be spending money on paint or bling if that money could be spent first on something that would make the bike faster/quicker.

Dragbikes don't have to look good - just go fast!

Could be done but probably the amount of 'cutting & shutting' required would mean a brand new one will be cheaper!

I don't know what year model the carbs are from so this is a guess but indicates both st1 and st3 ! https://dynojet.co.uk/amfinder?find=suzuki-gsx600-fj-fk-1988-236182&sid=vCdyH7kyd0 Just use the sites product search to locate correct kit. These kits are designed for a certain engine matched to certain carbs so can't just be applied to other combinations. The fact you are using 600 carbs on a 750 engine will bring its own tuning issues but a dyno is the place to resolve those! As said the exhaust should be close to what is finally planned but a st3 kit will work with most things from mild to wild!

Sometimes 'we can't see the wood for the trees!'

Fairly standard issue when the airbox delete mod is carried out - mid range flat spot. You can go to hundreds of garages but if they don't have a dyno, you are wasting time and money! Dynojet St3 kits are available for the GSX600 range and will likely address the mid range issue with a quick dyno session to check overall correct fueling. But please address the exhaust situation as ultra short, ultra noisy exhausts just piss everyone off and if extreme enough just make the engine run like shite!

My god I've been doing it wrong! Short thread into block with blue loctite finger tight - job done. Never pulled a thread or run out of thread length - weird!

I would asume you have access to vacuum gauges to set up your carbs? These should have the resolution you need, then follow . . . . .

Still a Venhill Product but not £60 ! . . . . . https://motorcyclepartswarehouse.co.uk/venhill-universal-1-35m-single-throttle-cable-kit-black.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPJ75w02sepE3wqixRHyHOjUGY0qC7Vo2raasZJdNxHMiS0fHnrQYBsaAlZUEALw_wcB Its a little bit under 4' 6" in old money - not sure how that compares to what you need?

SPA are nice gauges - just don't get them cold / damp as the liquid crystal display fails and they ain't cheap when 4 out of 5 fail - trust me!

OEM plates, sold as singles, are in individual bags with Suzuki label and part #'s - Non OEM usually in complete sets and in a single box. If is says EBC - run a mile LOL!

As said - its not recommended, cases are bored for bearings as a matching set, but cranks and other shafts having roller / ball bearings, are a little more tolerant so may be ok with mismatched halves! If it was a shell bearing engine, its really a no-no without line boring and using oversize shells!

Simple physics lesson coming up! All carbs have a restriction in their bore called a venturi (narrowing of bore). Due to the restriction this causes, air has to speed up through it and whilst speeding up the pressure lowers - called depression. The depression is what 'sucks' fuel out of the jets. So, imagine the carb sitting at idle, the slide is down, restriction is massive but airflow is low so the jets only meter enough fuel to suit the airflow. If the slides are lifted too quickly, the restriction is removed, airflow 'should' increase but as its at idle, it can't accelerate quick enough to breathe deeply and airflow stalls. At the same time, because the restriction has disappeared, the airflow slows and because of that its pressure increases (loss of depression) and as a consequence fuel is not drawn out of the jet so readily. Hence you have to match the slide opening speed to engine speed to depression and fuel flow. RS carbs artificially add extra fuel into the airflow using accelerator pumps giving richer mixture to wake the engine up. Long answer for simple question LOL!

Looks like the Wiseco icon in the oval to me! Are you sure its 73.5mm? As the part # looks like 4064 which is a 73.00mm bore . . . . https://powersports.wiseco.com/k1085 If it was a 73.5 the piston # would be 4066 . . . . . https://powersports.wiseco.com/k1100 The correct rings are listed on the appropriate page.

IMO a volt meter won't do much to indicate charging problems as a battery will show 12v till it's pretty terminal. My preference would be an ammeter as it will show discharge instantly or monitor charging and electrical usage.

How you got a 'brand new GS750 crankshaft'? That's gotta be rarer than a rare thing that's come from the rare school of rarity!

I don't think those carbs have accelerator pumps like the RS series do, so you can't 'snap' them open like a CV carb - they have to be opened progressively! It becomes a riding style thing that you'll get used to!

Could you pls explain the 2nd one as in my experience the first bit is true, in that without restriction or constriction, you can't measure pressure? ie. if a boost pipe blows off the manifold there is no measurable boost although the turbo is still spooled and blowing air. And the second part is confusing as, if two turbo's are run side by side, one flows 600cfm and the other 300cfm, both at a pressure of 1bar, and both fueled correctly for the air volume - which makes more power? I respect your thinking, I just don't understand it this time LOL!

Is it fitted the right way round? They can be 'refitted' with sealant if care is taken.

Maybe worth looking into the possibility of swapping the whole basket, hub and pressure plate from the 1100W and fitting a 1000 or Busa multi stage? The latter certainly can take that sort of power? May require some clever engineering but better than tearing up plates every 5 minutes?

I don't know what's wrong but that plug ain't right Never seen one part company like that! If its seized or cross threaded it normally just pulls the threads out, so hope its not and that the thread just unscrews like normal. Interesting numbers predicted by the calculator in last pic

The Dyna 'S' does rely on the mechanical ATC but has used this for ages - tried, tested and quite reliable! Re : Oil pressure / GS's / Turbo's - if you can get the pressure up to about 30psi, its sufficient for plain and ball bearing units. Just because you may have a ball bearing cartridge doesn't mean low oil pressure is ok as most have a plastic bearing race that needs the oil flow in sufficient quantities to stop the plastic melting! Wide ring gaps isn't necessarily a 'good' thing as blow-by into the crankcases brings its own problems! A ring gap set for NA with 2-3 thou extra is about right IMO

Nah!

Once above 33 - 35 deg its largely immaterial ! Ideally you want more timing in the low- mid range @ light throttles but can't be done with a 2D ign. system!