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  1. No, the problem comes when something becomes fashionable and the price goes through the roof so making things unaffordable for people without money to burn who actually want to ride things.
  2. Any torque setting quoted in a manual is always with dry threads unless specifically stated to the contrary. As a rule of thhumb reduce the torque setting of a greased thread by one third but there is absolutely no reason to lubricate cam cap bolt threads. They are not going to be exposed to the elements so should never seize in. Plus any lubricant will be trapped in a blind hole so may crack the alloy when it boils off and expands as a trapped gas. Keep the bolts and the hole dry before torquing.
  3. No, I don't think that's correct. The pipe feeds into the cross member and there are exit holes on the rear side of it. The airbox top butts up to the underside of the cross member, so the air does not reach the carb tops but rather flows along the top of the airbox and feeds to the intake at the rear. It gives a flow of direct, cool air to the airbox inlet which would otherwise have to rely on hot air which has been blown back off the engine. Even with the airbox removed you are still getting a flow of dense, cool air to the pod inlet area although things will not be working quite as they were designed to do with the airbox removed.
  4. Crass

    wrong speedo

    They do come up in the for sale section on here in decent nick. I'd be tempted to wait and see if you can pick another one up. If you know how much it's out by you can live with it in the meantime. Would be the cheaper option.
  5. Well one of the pipes directs cool air onto the cylinder head area, so on a bike with no water cooling and relying to a certain extent on air cooling I would regard that as advantageous. Otherwise it it trapped behind the large headstock casting receiving some air which has previously heated up by passing through the oil cooler. The second pipe delivers cool air to the airbox, which otherwise has to get its supply from the hot air blown off the engine. Again, I would expect that to be beneficial.
  6. Crass

    wrong speedo

    Interesting. I don't see how you're going to get the speedo recalibrated. Apart from the difficulty in finding someone to do the work and the considerable expense involved, the speedos are not designed to be opened up and have no obvious means of external adjustment. If the speedo is faulty replacement would ne a far simpler option. If the drive is faulty, ditto. I suspect the speedo is faulty as from your photo the needle does not appear to be resting on the stop with the bike stationary.
  7. Crass

    wrong speedo

    Might be worth just checking you have the right front end in, particularly the wheel diameter. Or alternatively that you have a stock front tyre in, which should be a 120/70 ZR17. If the tyre height is different the speedo will not read true. For example, if you've got a 120/60 in there the speedo will read too high because the tyre is not so tall, hence it has to spin round quicker at a given speed like a smalle wheel does. Or put another way, when it's spinning round at an indicated speed the true speed is lower because the speedo is designed for a 70 profile tyre.
  8. No it isn't. Very far from being anything like the place it was but still popular by those whose taste buds have been removed. Seriously guys, those who are going do take it steady. N Yorks plod target the roads for miles around with speed vans, marked and unmarked cars and bikes. Used to go but now I just avoid, too much hassle, like most of N Yorks.
  9. As usual with electrics it could be any one of several things which have a bearing on the particular fault. There isn't much point anyone randomly suggesting stuff, the only way to sort it is to work through a process of elimination of all the ignition circuit components.
  10. Usually indicates a high resistance in the circuit as this is exactly what happens if a bulb blows. Can also do it if the bulb fittings are corroded and have a high resistance. If the new relay doesn't sort it you might want to take the lenses off the indicators and have the bulbs out of the fittings for a looksee. If there is corrosion in there cleaning up with wet and dry and spraying with WD40 should get things going again.
  11. Crass

    Exhaust gaskets

    Do a search on Robinsons Foundry website. If they are still available new you will see them there and can order a set.
  12. One thing I have found invaluable when restoring a bike I haven't owned from new, so therefore don't know how complete it is, is to get hold of the microfiches. If you Google Alphasports they have the fiches for all Suzooks and you will find those essential.
  13. TBH I'd be inclined to grind the shite off that swinger and get a smooth finish, fill any holes with weld and finish smooth, then get it powdercoated. It's certainly salvageable and would turn out very nice with care in the prep.
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