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Crass

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About Crass

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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    Doncaster

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  1. TBH I'd be inclined to grind the shite off that swinger and get a smooth finish, fill any holes with weld and finish smooth, then get it powdercoated. It's certainly salvageable and would turn out very nice with care in the prep.
  2. FWIW as regards quality, I had a worn set of stock 750L cams reground to OEM spec and rehardened by KENT Cams and I was very happy with the work. Several thousand miles of street use later and no problems.
  3. Hi. Even those that initially look standard on closer inspection aren't. Standard is for show ponies or for those who enjoy exploring the inside of hedges
  4. I'm going to update this now that I have chance to investigate this issue properly, in case it helps anyone else in future. The rattle is being caused by wear in the spherical bearing in the assembly, component #7 on the fiche. This clips through the retaining ring #5 and wear in the plastic between the two faces of the clip surface is allowing the ring to move ~1mm. Theoretically you could replace the bearing, they are still available and cheap enough, but my concern was with dismantling everything to do this and possibly breaking other age-fragile plastic clips. Also no guarantee
  5. Personally, irrespective of the instructions on the filter, I'm with Dezza. Tight as I can get it by hand then nip it up with a filter wrench no more than a quarter turn, probably less.
  6. Try different pads. I agree with the Captain, there's noyhing wrong with the stock system per se. Personally, I found OEM Suzuki pads shockingly shite. Ferodo pads totally transformed the bike.
  7. If I press the headlights on my Slingy at the side they move away from, I assume, the alignment screws and when released return with a small clonk. The point being that only slight pressure is needed to move them so I suspect that on the move, on bumps, the headlamps rattle in their mounts slightly. Is this normal or has something worn or degraded? Reason I ask is I ended up repairing a speedo needle due the foam mount having degraded and I wondered if there was any foam and or damping rubber in the headlight unit which ought to be restored before the rattling causes any damage. Unl
  8. Now the fun starts - getting the old headers off without snapping off the bolts in the head (settles down with popcorn)...
  9. With the Yorkshire God Mick Grant himself piloting.
  10. That advert looks like Pete Stansfield in Malton. He breaks loads of oil boilers. I had some bits off him when I was restoing my 750L. Nice bloke. Might be worth dropping him a line to see if he has what you're looking for, although a stainless system is surely as good as new, it's not like they rot? You can always swap out the dinged can on that one.
  11. Nice fix. Another option if the original needle is unfixable and again avoids the dangers trying to remove the centre pivot mounting from the shaft
  12. Or buy the little numbered labels you can stick round the leads, they only cost pennies from the usual online outlets
  13. I managed to get new securing thingies a few years ago, although they are discontinued by Suzuki and not available NOS in the UK. Try German Eblag, that's where I got mine off a Deutsch dealer. I believe it helps to use the German name for them as a search term but I can't remember it. One of our fluent members will be along soon. Failing that I believe silicone sealant works well enough.
  14. The caliper looks right. The boot fits over the lip which runs round the ring-shaped casting surrounding the piston and then also on the lip on the piston itself. Obviously you have to get the pistons out a bit to fit the boot on them, then push everything back in before you mount the caliper. The boot also attaching to the piston should ensure it is clear of the pad. Your post suggests maybe you've got the boot attached to the caliper body but not the piston?
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