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About Crass

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  1. Crass

    snapped chain problems

    I'd be a bit concerned about what the blowlamp heat might have done to the output shaft oil seal. It would be a tad annoying to put it all together, tighten on a new sprocket, then find you have to go up the hill again to get the nut off again to replace the seal. Cheap and easy job to change now if you have the slightest doubts.
  2. Crass

    Hard start when hot

    Have you checked the valve clearances? Tight valves can lead to difficult hot starting.
  3. Crass

    Service manuals

    Yeah, has to be something for the inner race of the bearings to clamp to on the inside, or else the tendency will be for the inner race to turn along with the outer race / wheel. The inner race should not turn around the spindle. I see that as item 2 on the fiche too.
  4. Crass

    The Charging Mod Illustrated

    Having just done the charging mod described in the archive here https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/tag/charging-system I thought it might be helpful to others if I described how I did it with a few pictures. I know some people find electrics daunting and a picture can be worth a thousand words. First of all, however, just to make clear that all credit for the mod goes to jonny1bump who posted it all up in the first place, all I'm doing is showing how I carried out his work on my bike. So first of all you need to find the connector block under the rider seat shown here arrowed in green - This has one red and one orange wire into it out of the loom and two reddish cloth covered wires out of it to the alternator. You need to cut the orange wire on the right - give yourself at least about an inch and a half of wire still coming out of the connector block, so you'll need to open up the loom a bit. DO NOT CUT THE RED WIRE, leave it alone. Now you need to splice in two new lengths of wire onto the cut ends. I used orange 3mm 30A rated thin wall insulation, as the closest match to the original. You don't want to be using thinner wire than the original - thinner wire = greater resistance = voltage drop and this is the problem you are trying to cure. You can crimp the wire on, personally I prefer a soldered splice, then seal the splice with heatshrink insulation On the other end you need to crimp on female spade connectors, which to match the terminals on your relay will most likely be 6.3mm. Use double crimped ones which grip the bare wire and the insulation. Again, as well as a crimp I like to put a bit of solder on my crimped end. I also slipped insulators on the wire to cover the blades to make everything 100% weathertight. Now you need to make up two more lengths of wire, same type as before but this time a black length and a red length. On one end you want a double-crimped 6.4mm round battery terminal, on the other end a 6.3mm female spade with insulator. Before attaching the battery terminal onto the red wire I threaded it through the terminal insulator on the battery cable, as this is easier than trying to fit it through with the terminal attached. The new terminals sit on top of the existing battery lead terminals. The relay I fixed to the undertray next to the fusebox as you can see. Drilled through the undertray and used a stainless nut and bolt to secure the relay bracket. I also put a bit of foam between the bracket and the undertray to provide a bit of damping but this might be overkill, as the plastic undertray is flexible anyway. I put another little bit of foam between the relay and the fusebox cover, so that is held firm and damped. You can see in the photo below how I've routed the wires, so you can follow this and cut to the required length before starting. I used the groove in the undertray as a duct for them to pass underneath the fusebox, which secures them neatly. The loom was resealed with self-amalgamating tape leaving the orange wires passing through. The red and black wires are cable tied to the battery wires, then cable tied along their length to the loom or frame. You don't want unsecured wires flapping about, they get fatigued over the years, work harden and then you get annoying internal cracks. A tidy bike is a reliable bike . So the wires go as follows - orange from the ignition switch side of the loom (i.e. from the right hand side as you're looking at the connector block in the first photo) goes to one of the coil terminals on the relay; black wire connects to battery negative and the other coil terminal on the relay; the other orange wire, from the alternator side of the loom (i.e. from the left hand side as you're looking at the connector block in the first photo) goes to one of the switch terminals on the relay; red wire connects to battery positive and the other switch terminal on the relay. I think the picture below should illustrate this all clearly. Other ways of doing all this are available, this is just my take on the job.
  5. Crass

    The Charging Mod - Connector Block I.D.

    Thanks very much for posting that fix up, really appreciated. I've avoided cooking a battery yet. My first intimation something wasn't right is because my tickover went down with the lights on. Always been like it since I got the bike. Then came across the archive link, tested my voltages and found exactly the problem you described, so decided to nip things in the bud and do the mod. As you say in the fix, there must be loads of bikes out there with this issue, probably most of them, but if the battery lasts a few years before failing people just put it down to normal wear and tear.
  6. Crass

    Carb repair kits

    But surely the Wemoto kit which #imago has in his ET disproves this statement? He based his reply on experience over a period of 2/3 years. Personally I've found Wemoto aftermarket stuff to be good quality.
  7. Crass

    The Charging Mod - Connector Block I.D.

    https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/tag/charging-system explains it all without me repeating it.
  8. Crass

    say what now!? 1100m carbs

    Would have thought that would be easy enough to drill out the remains of the brass pipe in the casting and then push in the end of the existing pipe, glued in with something fuel resistant like Araldite. You'd want to put the glue on the outside of the pipe before pushing it in, not in the hole, or else you'll block the pipe end with glue, obv.
  9. I'm going to do the charging circuit mod to my 750L as I have the high output voltage issue. Could someone help with a couple of questions, please? Firstly, in another thread Captain Chaos said that the connector block containing the required wires was located under the seat, so to sensibly locate the relay here - is this the one shown arrowed in the pic? It has red and orange wires coming in one end and a couple of reddish (old and faded) cloth insulation coloured ones out the other end. Second question - the 'how to' mentions a 30A relay but I'm guessing there is no requirement for the inserted lengths of wire to be thick 30A rated? Just the same size / rating as the wires to be cut? Does anyone know offhand what this size / rating is to save me buggering around trying to measure cut wires? Thanks.
  10. Crass

    Simple cheap upgrades, read on...

    You need a K&N sticker - adds at least 5bhp for pennies
  11. Crass

    Shock linkage bearings

    Wemoto do Slinky Glide. Used them in an L, several thousand miles later still good.
  12. And if you do need a steering damper you can get a Toby damper to fit these bikes. Good quality and it's rebuildable, so it will last. It's worth bearing in mind that a steering damper is only second to a K&N sticker for increasing your speed .
  13. Crass

    Diaphragm cover

    You've got the right part number there, which maybe suggests the carbs are not the originals for that bike, so the 1992 spec part is not correct?
  14. Crass

    cam pitting

    Personally I don't buy the old oil story. Cams are case hardened so if the oil were that acidic to burn holes in them the entire rest of the motor would have dissolved. My understanding has always been similar to Gixer1460's. Some cams have less than perfect casting and the case hardening does not adhere well to certain small spots and comes loose and you get a pit. I have a bike (of another make) I've owned from new which has a couple of pits on the cams. They have never got any worse so now cause me no concern. The pit holds a pool of oil so, unless it is that large that it seriously reduces the area of contact between the cam and the follower, this pool of oil sort of compensates for the loss of metal surface. The contact area will always be much larger than the area of the pit (unless it is so bad the cam is fubared) so the rocker is well supported by the surrounding metal as the pit passes and the pool of oil provides extra lubrication, like a wick. I wouldn't worry about pits that don't change. Now a scored cam is an entirely different matter.