Gixer1460

When on Eblag page, just right click on mouse and select 'Translate' - may not be perfect but generally close enough!

How do you know that? When you said 'backfire', I was imagining a bang from the exhaust! That 'tick' is deffo carb related and usually symptomatic of a lean condition. That is so small meaning jetting is nearly right, worse cases are proper bangs and can blow the filters off! Try taking the filters off (they should be oiled btw if K&N - which would richen mixture a tiny bit) and see if the problem is worse? Or wrap masking tape around filter, blocking half of the filter area and try that - the airflow reduction should increase the mixture. All solved with a jet change ie. up on the idle jet! Otherwise book a dyno session that has a AFR meter and do it properly rather than guesswork.

Dayco radiator canvas / rubber hose used to be used in racing and turbo installs - don't use silicone type pipe as it's too slippery!

Good enough?

Not so! Both types fitted through the years. A set of 750 carbs might be 'able' to fit a 550 but getting it to run correctly is another issue!

I believe the 493 rods are known as 'Katana' rods and maybe originally from the homologated 1000cc engine. They are the 'go to' rods in drag race engines.

Maybe things have changed since I last needed an air shifter - MRE air or Highpower Nitrous types. The nitrous one was a bit quicker but it did have 900 psi behind the ram! I guess I didn't consider the preload systems - no experience of them! But can see the advantage

That's pretty short for most boxes - usually between 60 - 70ms works well. Shorter can risk missed shifts.

You are probably in a minority of one with that statement! Jet sizes you advise are masking how badly the carbs are working!

That's my thoughts also - if they do bottom, they are over-tight or rubbers are dead!

Firstly DON'T try charging the battery with a regular charger! I did something similar with a GSXR years ago - I had the tail off and I inadvertently turned the key to 'Park' so the front side light was on and as I was behind it, I didn't see the dim light! Killed a very expensive LA battery stone dead! Maybe similar ? Either that or something is 'on' when it shouldn't be ie. connected to a perm. live when it shouldn't be! Clocks and alarms are good for this!

'Tis very odd then! Correct carbs? I'm guessing they would be 34's but even with 36's they should seal, even when stretched!

OEM or pattern? rubbers. Wire clips unlikely to stretch so guessing poor rubbers?

That looks about standard for most starter soli / relays - Yellow/green would be from button press, black/white is an earth and the heavy Red will likely be connected internally to the battery via the main fuse under the cover. On earlier bikes they didn't feature a 'main fuse', just a normal fuse box between battery and powered items ie. GS's & GSX's. GSXR's tried a resettable circuit breaker - royal PITA, best junked IMO. The main fuse isn't so bad but they are usually exposed to road crap and can corrode to the point of failure and the spare carried alongside is usually as bad so you are in 'shit creek' either way LOL!

I don't believe that is the reason Suzuki included the pin! Unlike shell bearings, the cases aren't 'precision tolerance' machined as the roller bearings have a degree of tolerance in fit between the bearing outer race and the case, sufficient that, in use, the outer could spin in the case which is bad for the cases and the rollers as well - so the addition of the pin still allows the 'slack fit' and stops the potential spin simply. To the OP - unused bearings sitting on a shelf don't just 'go bad' unless the shelf happens to be outside! A surface layer of rust may look horrendous but careful cleaning, soaking in diesel etc. may get them back to acceptable use state - binning £1000 worth of new bearings + the labour to split the crank and rebuild it, would be hard to stomach for most people!

It's not the hose clamps - the OEM are designed for the job! - it's the rubbers, they go hard and eventually whatever clamp you use, they'll leak! You need some new ones to give a reliable seal.

Talk with a crank rebuilder - they have the tools anyway?

I'm no 750 aficionado so a 6sp is a 6sp is a 6sp to me LOL! Hmmm - lower in 1st, lower in top! You could run the 5sp and only use 4 lowest gears for roughly same relative gearing !

Well, 750RR 6th gear = 1.2:1 whilst GSXR1100L 5th gear = 0.91 (I didn't realise GSXR11 was overdrive top gear!) The primary ratio's are likely different between 750 / 1100 but they never get quoted! Its interesting looking at the two gearsets ratio's, I can sort of see the appeal of the 750 ratio's but still feel they are wasted for a 1100 Comparison 750RR 1st 2.38, 2nd 1.88, 3rd 1.62, 4th 1.45, 5th 1.29 and 6th 1.20 Whilst 1100 L 1st 2.38, 2nd 1.63, 3rd 1.25, 4th 1.05, and 5th 0.91

Eh? How does 15/45 get 216kph and 15/48 get 259kph when the latter is lower geared than the former ? 15/45 is std for 1127 GSXR if memory serves me correctly, 15/48 would be Blandit stylee !

That's pretty short gearing for an 1100 even with a 6 speed - I bet it's a lot of changes! The 14 front isn't good for the chain - 15 or 16 better and if you like the feel of current gearing then either a 51 or 54 respectively would match those fronts. IMO 15/45 is good all round ratio's

You are looking at electrics 'because it must be electrics - right!' Wrong, you've shown that you can get good reliable sparks that drop randomly across any cylinder so that would indicate the ign. system is functional. You changed the plugs and it runs on four . . . . . . a fouled plug often won't work! This points to carbs over fuelling IMO? It doesn't sound massive amounts but enough to foul a plugs in a random fashion unlike one cylinder always goes out due to a leaky float valve for example!

You'll hardly kill the engine by trying either - start with 3 and see if the engine is ok, if not try 3 1/4 and then 3 1/2. If you have a pipe and / or a can fitted, std. settings are guidelines anyway - use whatever the engine likes not what book says!

TBH - they are really only needed if the engine can make enough torque to slip the clutch whilst in gear or you use an 'instant hit' of power like Nitrous that can shock the clutch into slipping. Adding weight to the arms is the usual 'tuning method' although that is a bit agricultural! When racing (for that is what they were designed for) tuning involves clutch stack heights, air gaps, spring pressures, preloads and arm weights, so a simple one fix solution doesn't fit every situation. First off a GOOD working std. clutch will hold a good amount of power, it torque that makes a clutch slip - then if required add a lock-up but be mindful of what use it'll get as, like most things, one set-up will have pro's and con's for others. And if drag racing, be prepared to burn up fibres and steels whilst dialling it in !

I used a 19 row, std width Mocal cooler on my turbo Kawazuki and that never got daftly hot except when stuck in slow traffic exiting race meets etc. I had -10 oil lines for good flow and 4No crankcase breathers : -8 in filler neck, -10 in clutch cover, -10 in cam cover and -8 from head breather tower . . . . . . turbo's breathe hard!