Duckndive

If it’s the clutch push rod is the issue then you need a right hand side cable clutch cover....don’t know if they fit water boilers

I doubt it as the 750 - 6 speed gears are narrower

Fuel Injected Blow Thru Turbo then

I luv proper supercharger,s but the down side is they use power to drive them so gains have to replace that loss plus a worth while increase .

Hagon

I believe that is covered by RTFM.................

Slacken the cam chain and You can push the top shells out with a screwdriver lolly pop stick enough to get a grip on them... as you have found codes are on back of cases .. but best to check clearance's of the new ones with plasti-gauge before finally bolting the cases up

I was told they can only be Statically Balanced......... My understanding was that all the parts were weight matched before assembly The V&H Pro Stock rental motors only do 4 passes before a tear down.............

I use the Blue Glue The better cure is a proper dowel or in the case of the 1135 one a ball bearing in the dowel hole so it does its job properly

TBH ian I know but did not want to "Misquote Private Pike" I remember woody having the dripping carb on the Kat.....the S&S is not that bad but needs patience to set up accel pump hit position is the key....and needs to be different for road & strip......I think with the HSR you need to run the 45 or 48 as the 42 is a little wheezy IMO.....even on a street bike..... I had a cheap fuel reg and pump on mime for the strip and 2 psi was the limit before I got the dribbles so to speak.... Augy Harrison used to use boost pressure to feed the fuel by pressurising the tank.....KISS as they say

extended the gear change shaft out the right side using another shaft ...boss welded on the cover for the oil seal...........simples....

Rev,s Hot Clutch did that on his Drag bike,s As it was easier to hold clutch in with the proper hand and fight with the right on the gear shift than try and hold clutch with the right hand and fiddle with the left hand ..............

My 1216 Draw Thru runs Gravity Feed to an S&S "Tractor Carb" 245BHP and 9.5 1/4 Quarters no starvation "but the carb has huge float bowl" My Old 1198 EFE Draw thru with T3 and HSR 42 ran gravity feed and was fine on the road as long as tank was above 1/2 full.....I added a pump and reg set at 2 PSI that I could switch on when I did RWYBs and it was fine 9.8 1/4s..... I was going to try a regulated line from plenum to pressurise tank under boost but never got round to it.... BigCC posted on face ache on a similar thread " Float bowl spacer is not a solution . Fuel flow v pressure is" And Added This was making 400+hp on the track with a HSR48 & Big CC carb mods

still enough meat there to weld a nut on and give it another go...... I spray some diesel down the hole and let it soak in before welding a nut on

Rods are normally same length just the pin hole is different position Top bearing is replaced every run bottom may go a 2nd time ... Its my understanding the different c/r in different holes is due to the way the fuel is forced by the blower

I,ve had a Hagon and a WP on EFE,s both worked well

We used to get the cranks' for the Hemi done at Basset Down Engineering Modern TF Nitro engines often run a different C/R on some pairs of cylinders....

That's a good start gas working well then

1100 rocker arms are same as 750...

sounds like clutch is dragging did you soak the fibres in oil for 24hrs before fitting ? and yes OEM is the way to go

Sure its not the sight glass leaking

I used a kit of Venhill on my HSR https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-amp-components/universal-cable-kits/throttle-cable-kits/u01-4-150.html

Later kits had a gates belt ...but the original blowers were not Teflon stripped and did not offer much resistance

Looking at the pic in your other post ...that's not an EFE block or Head