Duckndive

EFE Exhaust Valves are 23mm same as the 1074cc engines EFE Inlets are 28mm were as the 1074cc engines are 27mm

The cable run is much better

oooh I had a lock-up and spacer on mine ..but did not think stock would need one...... every days a skool day

I assume you are referring to the cover that has the cable mount top right and the cable runs around the engine if so yes "well it did on a motor on the bench"............

you cant get an answer with out all the info there are plenty of on-line calculator's to do the sums for you eg https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

I don't have one to hand but I,m sure the opening and closing figures are in the factory workshop manual.....

4.5 carrier is also wider on some models e.g. B6

If you measure the clearance with the shims you have you can then work out the thickness and quantity of shims you need ....and go from there..

That’s on the 2V motors

I use this for oil boiler and air cooled clutchs... 3 steels stich welded together for each motor bar is long enough to hook under or over foot peg to lock

The Nut should have a Tab Washer "WASHER (09167-25007)" behind it that is used to prevent the nut coming loose yes its defiantly worth making the correct tool to hold the hub while you torque it up

What size was moonies Dan Wagner outlaw motor ? I thought that had a stoker crank but seam to recall it had the origninal block ... As the only other stroker motors I,ve seen in the UK are yours and the one in Woodys "Ex BigCC" Spondon Kat ...

not done it but you can do 1307cc "84mm" or 1338cc "85mm" using the appropriate liners in a stock block allegedly ..... or go clever big "expensive" stroker crank and big bore ..

Yes it should as they both use the same sump...but silencer mount may be in different places

You can go 1260 in an EFE "1150" block but the liners will be a little on the thin side at the bottom ....hence 1230cc being the preferred option for longevity I,ve done 1260cc in an EFE block using GSXR pistons and liners and decked the block 2mm I, also got a 1398cc "ish" in an EFE block using bigger liners but as Ian said it does break thru and you need to seal the liners ..and run external oil lines . Downside of big block is cooling and heat soak " done that as well" but its all good fun

the slabbie 73T gear wont match the bandit crank gear ...and the rest "inner hub ,springs and plates are the same as the 1100F "powerscreem" one you already have why don't you just machine the face the hub enough to get the nut on full thread

Rich will sort your need

Is this any use to you ? it came of a GS1000 tank "think" 50mm hole centres

Kens Shop is not far from you TBH and he wont give you any bull5hit 2 Spring Corner, High Street, Feltham, Middlesex Call 020 8890 5353 info@cooperized.co.uk http://www.cooperized.co.uk

Dave Dunlop or Ken Cooper

Yes that would be about right I have a V711 motor that is Shim Head....

If you use the right "750" clutch cover you don't need to drill the main-shaft......just need a cable and lever..

Clutch ....I hate the Diaphram clutch

either TBH but I would use the Blandit as the block has thicker liners and I would also do a coil spring conversion "but that's just me"

Clive,s Blow Thru.......234.08 BHP with a Nice Straight Line Duckndive "Clive" 1216 Draw Thru 239.92 BHP...not quite as Straight its all ways good to see side by side comparison on similar engines ..in fairness Clive Blow thru would most likily make a bit more on Race Gas as mine was running on but "confession" I have never been a Huge fan of slabbies' I like it a great bike well put together as is Rosco,s