dupersunc

Take engine out. Turn up side down, Remove, clutch, and sump. Remove bottom half of crank case, remove gearbox. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Notes. Rattle clutch hub nut off before removing engine from bike if possible. There, a couple of bolts hidden behind the clutch that hold the cases together. Getting the selector forks to line up on reassembly is abiy of a fiddle.

Do a couple of rounds of the Bemsee Tunderbike Extreme on the Slabbie 7/11. Build my 1216 motor into a 750k chassis and do a couple of preinjection 1300 races with NG roadracing.

Wasn't the Egli Vincent the first of Fritz Egli's Spine frames. The Stock Vincent frame was the oil tank too.

Not a lot, @£100, they're a bit scruffy. Just rebuilt them with new seals to get a bike through an mot. Need to build up a 600 front end (cobble together with an R1 Marvic and some CBR Nissins) to swap in. Won't be surplus for little while.

The 600 forks are 45mm, I may have a set of 43mm j/k forks spare soon. I had the same thought with the rubber mounts, I intend to try that next year. Oh @Rene EFEI run the clip ons about 30mm below the to yoke on my slabbies'. What do I win?

Oh @Hawky I've got 750j and L forks as well as 600 srad and 600k2 forks in the garage I'll measure up the extended lengths of them tonight if that's any help.

Sounds familiar. Charlies2 at Cadwell was where I first noticed it, tyre pressure helped a bit, but it reared it's head again big time at Jerez feels like the frame or forks flexing and releasing. I put it down to my Eblag suspension set-up. I've since spoken to a very quick ex F1 and Superbike racer who did a one off race in 2005 on a very trick 1216 motored 750rrk who described the same thing. Ah well i'm building up a 750k chassis to put my 1216 motor in to race next year. I'll be paying lots of attention to the engine mounts to get them shimmed as best I can. I've done the same on my slabbie too, to try and improve things.

Did you get the front tyre hoping when you really leaned on the front on entry in fast corners?

#doingblanditracebikeproperly

PM Chicanes were a race wheel.

The 750j/k are very tight for getting the rocker cover off, and are the smallest frames. L/m 750, and 1100 are closer, only very small difference in the height of the frames. steering geometry differences are down to the swing arm length and ride heights.

Are you on crack? The block simply wouldn't be stiff enough to keep the bored in shape.

I've cut n shut steel stems before. Not a big deal if done properly. I decided it wasn't much more hassle to machine up a stem for the last conversion I did though.

The stem on the R1 forks is Alloy I believe, and probably a type that won't take to welding particularly well. If you have a lathe make up a new stem.

I think Dymag send there stuff to TPCS anyway.

As has been said, nickel can be easily removed by any plater who has a big enough tank. Painting over it will give you better rust protection I guess. Mag wheels. Speak to this guy. ex Dymag http://tpcs-magnesium-refurbs.co.uk/

what happened to the GSX engineed GSXR1100 project?

I believe they are the same from 1127 to 1157.

I believe Ray Debben has the kit to do this.

No they won't fit. Sorry.

I also think they are different

You can swap the sprockets between cams. So bandit cams fitted with gsxr sprockets will work fine.

Bandit cam sprockets are no good for a gsxr engine as the chain and crank sprockets aren't compatible.

Out put shafts are all very similar. The spacers behind the sprockets are different though.

Yep they can, and I have done. But a decent modern radial requires so much less effort.