dupersunc

I bought a ducati monster tank a few years back, they have a big removable access plate on top that filler neck screws into. That plate had been removed and it had been sat for months like this, barely trace of fuel smell. Gave it to friend to pull the dentis out of the side and paint. He used one of those slide hammers that spot weld pins to the metal to pull on. He was welding a third pin on when it went woof. Took his fringe and put a groove up the middle of his curly locks. Only other injuries were a few chuckle muscle were pulled by his colleagues.

Saw the SP had gone to Iconic. Sorry to here Jake isn't well.

Far, far, longer than you would think. Flush it out thoroughly with a hose and some detergent. Do it a few times to be sure. Welded lots of tanks, had a few go up because I couldn't be arsed/ didn't have time to flush them out. Make sure the filler neck is open and pointing away from you or anything flammable. Dont try the second method.

13.5 pistons and dot head are bad Idea. You'll have a sky high CR, and no valve to piston clearance as the dot valves are longer and sit closer to the deck. Base gaskets and head gasket might make thing work, but you'll bugger up you squish height. This is bad. the dot cams are worth using if you are starting with a Bandit lump.

Another thumbs up for Maxton here. I've got hybrid gsxr1100k/rf900 forks with maxton internals in my Harris build. Great company to deal with. Not cheap but good value.

Have you measured your compression ratio? Or areyoujust quoting part specs?

Throw the screens away. Fit proper bell mouths and either run them open or proper filters. Cold starting, give the throttle 3 or for sharp full twists, so the accelerator pumps wet the inlet ports. Spin it over with no throttle then crack it open stightly as soon as it catches. might take a couple of attempts if it's really cold.

There was a bulletin years ago about it, but it's true that doesn't capture anything, boyond the week it's published.

You can still buy alloy -3 stuff for brake lines etc. They are supposed to be an mot failure though for that very reason. I certainly wouldn't use alloy fittings on a road vehicle.

The leaky fitting in the OP is a swivel type, which has an o-ring inside the swivel part. they do perish an fail. Not servicable really.

No need to get the arse because you can't work out what others have managed to figure for themselves. Forums are free info, treat them like you would anything else that is free. They are also about give and take. If you give a little, you may get little more back.

What do you pressurise it with? A foot pump?

Early r6 throttle tube will work in gsxr housing if you want to keep the switch gear. Cost less than £15 from Yamaha dealer. I run a £30 pit bike qa on my slabbie race bike.

Oh dear. I know someone with a project there. Been there 2years and not started, but now they're building bikes they haven't sold...I see they are making WP tanks themselves now. They've got some skills and kit there, but some people just arent business or customer orientated.