dupersunc

I wouldn't go too far. Ted M measured his C.R at 10.9:1. I wouldn't go much more on an oil cooled road bike engine. When can I pick up the carbs.

I'd still stick with the Bandit head. If you want midrange torque, you've bought the wrong carbs. Coz I like you I'll give you £350 for them. Seriously, with the Wiseco pistons stick with the Bandit head.

Base gasket is the least suitable way, as you increase the squish gap, tighter the squish the more compression you can get away with. I've got a dot head, that I've just fitted to a stock bandit bottom end, I've opened up the combustion chamber a little around the valves, as the valves in the dot head are quite heavily shrouded, so there are gains to be had by in shrouding the valves with the bigger bandit bore, this will have drop the compression a tad, I regained most of that by skimming 0.5 mm of the head, but you wouldn't need to the skimming. Even opening out the combustion chambers you would still need to drop it more, I would look at machining the very top of the piston, and probably the valve pockets too, to get the desired compression, and valve to piston clearance. If this sounds like a lot of work, it is. You'd be better off fettling the Bandit head, and fitting the dot head cams.

750 rev to 12500rpm. Sounds like you need to get the bike on a Dyno.

Very nice.

4-2-1 will have more mid range as has been said. The down side is a slight loss of top end power. The length of the secondries is a really powerful factor. The spliner in the collector shown above won't do a lot. General rule the longer the secondries the lower down the rpm it will help torque. 6-14" are typical lengths. I've seen 20bhp gains over 2500rpm in the mod range vs 4bhp loss at peak on 4cyl car race engines. Between 4-2-1 and 4-1. Given a choice I'd go 4-2-1 every time.

You can just swap the bandit and dot head cam sprockets over if you go down the dot head route.

The bell crank or dog bones won't make any difference to the issue you have.

It's got a bolt on subframe, so 100% a water boiler. Probably an 1100 frame.

I was looking at those, rider must of had big feet. Looks like a well sorted bike. Good luck with it.

It's definitely a water boiler frame, that's all I know.

That shock/swingarm combo just isn't going to work guys, no matter what you do.

There's another little bracket between fairing stay and fairing below thee head light. One bolt into the stay, 2 bolts to the fairing.

That's a bummer on the 675 rear wheel, I thought it looked simpler when I had a quick measure up of a set. Not a fan of those eccentric JMC arms. Had one for my Slingshot, but sold as I didn't think the eccentric set-up was robust enough for serious track work.

I don't think you can spend that much on the whole ignitech range. The unit I bought was about £80, though I get a disount as I've bought a few, even the basic version has more functionality than the dyna2000. The dyna 2000 is self contained through, where as the ignitech uses the stock ignition pick ups and you need a lap top to adjust it.

Just receved mine Can we get some T-shirts too? Happy to pay.

If you guys are looking at running Dot heads and 81mm Wisecos, check your compression ratios. I think they'll be very high. It's one thing running a drag bike like the OP's running 120 octane at 13.5:1. Quite another thing on a road bike though.

What CR did you end up with?

I found Ignitech were really helpful with after sales help.

You need to check your zues book. ;D 1mm = 0.040" As has been said. Dot head has a small chamber and more critically the valves are approx 3mm or 0.120" longer than bandit valves so the head of the valve starts closer to the piston even when it's closed.

Theyre designed to use the same resistance coils as a stock bike.

I'd definitely duct some cool air to the cooler. Wouldn't be my choice of position personally.

Ignitech. Much much cheaper and far more functionality. No brainer.

Lots of work. Need to narrow the r1 swingarm pivot for a start.

I run a 2005 r6 shock in the back of my 750. It's a touch longer, so I had to clearance the link to get some more ride height and less preload. I'm really pleased with how it works. The 1100 arm , link and top mount are all slightly different I believe, so I'm not sure how that'll work out.