dupersunc

Yoshimura wheels on the white one.

-6 from the head to t piece to -8 crank/cooler. Holes in cam cover are 10mm. -6an is 3/8" or 9.5mm .

Polish up the sprocket spacer while your at it, so the new seal doesn't get ripped to shreds first time you run the bike.

No, mines a little longer than the slabbie item. You have to clearance the link and arm slightly to get a bit of sag with the increased ride height. If you don't do this the rear gets very squirrely under heavy braking. I also have a 2007 R1 shock on another slabbie this is very similar in length to the R6 item, and feels similar statically, but I've not checked the spring rate or ridden the bike yet so can't comment on how it performs.

No, that won't fit, you need the model with the canister at 90 degrees to the body. I guess it's an earlier version, mine came in a job lot of parts so not 100% on it's vintage.

The pictured filler is an RCD/ Racefit Item. Newton Equipment do Pukka endurance fillers.

Remove main jets, and leave them on the bench.

Swap straight in with slingy spacers and brake caliper hanger.

R1 and R6 both fit with minor mods and work well, they're longer than stock though.

That's from the drag bike rolling chassis that was on Eblag for the last few months. The bike looked like it was very trick. That looks nicely done but ultimately not sure what it achieved.

2005 ish r6 shock and spring works great on a slabbie. Don't need anything fancy.

I've got 2 sat here next to me but they're both on 750jk wheels and forks. and r6 shocks. They measure 225mm to the point on your image.

Slingy wheels are unbelievably heavy, so even something like oem GSXR k8 wheels which aren't that expensive will make a massive difference.

I know my names not Johnny, but for what it's worth, This my experience with getting a Slingshot to handle and stop. I had a 7/11m, the one in my advatar, It had the following mods; 10mm shorter dog bones which raise the rear approx 30mm, wp shock with 95 Nmm spring. Front was stock , forks had 2mm above the top yoke 10w oil stock air gap, and 9.5 springs. Ran a 180/60 rear Supercorsa SC2 rear sc1 front. Pressures 32f 27r hot. Brakes were stock save for EBC HH pads and braded hoses. Everything else was stock, light bodywork wheels etc. In that spec I ran towards the front of the fast group at track days. 2:09s at Snetterton, Low 1:44s at Cadwell, 1:47s at Cartagena. So a second or two off Johnny's best. If I still had the bike, I wish I did, I would have fitted a Brembo radial M/c, it stopped well enough but it took some effort. I would also gone for some lighter wheels as direction change was sluggish. Then I would have gone looking for more power. Never had an issue with the swing arm flexing, or the frame. Modern tyres really transform these bikes, they are still really capable. I prefer them to the modern 1000cc super bikes, RSV4 excepted.

Yes. I had a 750m with an 1127 motor and K1 headers. The exhaust fouled the belly pan after the collectors. I bit of minor trimming sorted that. A 750 motor will cause a much bigger clearance problem

Fancy shocks are pointless if you have the wrong spring rate. The correct spring and setting the preload to get the correct sag is the first thing you need to get correct. Anything else is wasting your time. @Sandman is spot on with his spring rate suggestions. For reference I run a 95n/mm spring on my race slabbie and weight 90kg kitted up. If you're running on the road you want to be on the softer end of that scale, if you're a big lad you might want to go to the stiffer end. Your Shock is Spec'd for a stiffer spring, but Ohlins do have wide range of adjustment. You'll probably find the best results running it on softer setting.

My standard response. They don't need one, unless you've done something radical/stupid to the chassis. 7/11 with 30mm jack up and 180/60 rear tyre. Steering damper went in the skip, never noticed it gone.

They look like 1/2 "bsp but the extra dowety washer on the sump fitting is throwing me.

it's more a power thing. My Stock 1127cc motor in my race bike was getting slower by 4-5 mph over the course of a 7 lap race, when I looked at the Data logger traces. This was cadwell with 20-22degrees ambient temp. Fitted a head cooler in the front of the fairing, and went to Snetterton in 29-30 degrees ambient, and found straight line speed much more consistent. Probably not necessary for street use though.

K. I. S. S.

I think you are getting confuddled. MN heads that toss shims are the 1100, and the cams aren't interchangeable with j/k or bandit heads as the followers are totally different. I'm building up a 1152 with a dot head at the moment, I've ended up removing quite a lot of material from the combustion chambers to unshroud the inlet valves, and a lesser extent the exhausts valves too. This happily increases the combustion chamber volume to a more 1216 friendly size. A clean up of the valve throats and short side turn, 3 angle valve job and it'll be golden.

Wot he Said^

Don't see why not. Bakker and others have mounted the frame off the "cam link" bolts. Don't see heat transfer as a significant issue. As I've said else where, I don't see a need for steering dampers on stock framed oilboilers. Extra weight and complexity for no benefit.

I prefer the Ignitech ignitions. Much cheaper, more programmable,and more functions, unless you can't drive a lap top.

The zx9r resets I fitted to a slingshot had 10mm mounting holes