dupersunc

750 and 1100 are the same fitment. ZX9r, and some zx6r resets fit with some very minor fettling.

Who pissed on your cornflakes.

Yes.

Yes move your feet to brake and change gear. Racers wear the soles of there boots out at an alarming rate

If it's you first bike, a habit a lot of newbies fall into is having there feet too far forward on the pegs. You should ride with the ball of your foot on the pegs, taking your body weight, and using it to turn the bike. Ride with your feet too far forward you end up with all you weight on your arse/bollocks, and it's like trying to run on you heels, it makes you stiff and tense on the bike and slow to shift your weight.

2 options 1)make the seat more level, by adjusting the subframe, not the suspension 2) Wheelie the bike everywhere.

You can see the 2 tangs on the return spring (on the back of the toothed part of the selector shaft). They should go either side of the pin on the casing, they are currently both below it. Locate the spring correctly and you'll be good.

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56bcdbc22eeb813d8a9c344c/t/581029fbe3df28ce37afd2cf/1477454347482/Steering+Damper+Mount?format=1000w

Yep, Seal, washer, circlip.

The only thing that can cause that is if the circlip isn't located it's grove properly. circlip grove is 47mm from the end of the shaft.

In order of creation 7/11 w K1 750 front end, braced K1 1000 rear, GSXR400 tank and body work Gsxr750m with 1100l motor, very simple but worked beautifully, wish I still owned it. Gsxr750 f with 1100k motor, 750k forks . love my race bike. Currently under construction. 750k, with 1157 Bandit motor, ported 750k head, 6speed box, Kent cams, 38mm bsts, 750l front end, 750 wr rear end.

SES list fork clamps on eblag, about £25 and very neat. I welded a boss to the frame on the last one I did. My race Slabbie doesn't have a steering damper and doesn't need one. The only reason I fitted one on another bike was to meet some specific race regs.

I don't know why anyone would pay Dyna2000 money when you cant get an Ignitech TCIP4 for half the cost.

Not a budget build is it. Clever though

I like the workings of a mind that thinks, Fuck there's no room for the throttle bodies now we've done this engine swap...looks like were gonna have to go draw through turbo. What's the deal with the trick looking billet cam cover?

Step away from the tools and put the emery cloth down. No Suzukis need to get hurt here son.

I hear this "wisdom" all the time, yet it makes no logical sense. I know they are fit to the kwaks to homolgate them for WSBK so were compromised on the road bikes, but they worked to an acceptable standard, on a 100bhp 750, yet a tuned 1200cc motor can't draw enough air speed?? Don't get me started on "ram air". looking for some logic here not having a dig.

So FCR41s are ok on a 750 kawa, but too big for a 1216cc Suzuki.

Yarp. 85 Gsxr750f 7/1127 race bike 91 Gsxr750m 7/1127 road bike just sold 88 Gsxr 750j 7/1157, dot head, cams, 6speed Road bike under construction 86 Gsxr750g 7/1157 road bike nearly finished road bike built from left overs.

Not much happening with this bike this year, no funds to race it New motor is awaiting gearbox parts to be machined, and I think that motor will end up in the slingshot chassis I have. A customer of mine is having some billet engine mounts machined up for me, which are tighter tolerance than the oem parts, so should stiffen the chassis up a little. That brings me on to this. @Markz9 approached me via this forum to help him out with his race bike build, as he'd got a little over his head, so I've spent the last couple of weeks getting this moved forward to completion. It's a Gsxr 750 frame and swing arm that's been heavily braced to race at the Manx a few years back by @YoshiJohnny I believe, it's all a bit ott in my opinion, it must weigh half as much again as a stocker. Mark started with the frame, swinger and tank from the manx bike. To this he's added a Roger Upperton 1216cc motor with a one off exhaust system and a set of ubber trick Yoshi TMR flat slides. It has a Maxton shock, K8 gsxr1000 front end, and a K8 600 rear wheel. My job has been to fit the body work, and get it painted, machine up spacers to align the rear wheel and sprockets correctly, make a head cooler/fairing mount, make a Yoshi style battery box and mount, fab up a seat mount/engine breather tank, and scratch build a loom and mounts for the ignitiech cdi and Scitsu tacho. Oh and make a mount for the steering damper too, and various other odds and ends/ Mark is going to finish it, though no doubt I'll get roped in further , as it's debut is scheduled for the beginning of July at the Spa Bikers Classic in the IG classic super bike series. No pressure... This is the frame the bike is built around.

Are you using the K1 rear wheel also? If so you need to space the front sprocket out @4mm Talon do offset front sprockets. A 530 chain will work with this set-up. I'd go 15/44 but I like to rev the shit out of stuff.

How much did you take off the head, and what cr did you end up with? I'm currently putting together an 1157 bandit lump, with a dot head, 6 speed box and bst38s. I've ended up removing quite a bit off material from the combustion chambers to unshroud the valves, but I'm now considering skimming the head to make the compression ratio less ghey. I've some Kent suz2 cams to fit too. I'm thinking a carful bit of dummy building might be in order.

Don't go below 4000rpm. You have not been charged for this advice.

You must be a big lad if this is road bike. For reference I'm 92kg in all my kit. 9.5kg/mm fork springs were a little harsh on the road though worked great on the track at he sharp end of the fast group. this was on a '91 7/11 with stock road body work and lights. That said I am going to try 10kg/mm fork springs on my race bike, as this get's ridden harder and I'm running out of travel and get tramping on corner entry. I run 9.5 rears with 30mm extra ride height, this works great.

Nice work.