dupersunc

Those Bronze tig rods are mint, make a lovely job. Silicone Bronze is not suitable for 4130 Cro-moly though.

No. 750s are the same stroke as L and M 750s and bandit 600s. 1100 slabbies don't share there stroke with anyrhing else

Will do. Next, the clutch saga. Looking at going down a different route to normal. @cregnybaa What sprockets do you run for short circuit stuff? I'm currently geared for 155mph at 10,500rpm with my 5speed.

Short answer. No.

Ah well. If you want to get your money back I'm after some Bandit engine spares.

Whot he said^^^ Tell us more about the bike please.

Well this has been bugging me, so instead of doing anything that might earn me a living, I spent this afternoon stripping this back down and checking every thing. Not quite sure what I'd done, but a did a dry build without crank and it all worked fine. Built it back up again now with the crank etc fitted and torqued up and all is good. Just me being a mong. Cheers for the help.

Output shaft turns fine. I did occur to me that it's extremely fortunate that fliping the output bearing happens to locate the shaft laterally in the correct spot. It doesn't look like it's catching 2 gears and with 20 thou. Gap between cases it all turns and selects gears fine. What clutch set up do you use?@cregnybaa I'm looking at using a hyabusa or tl1000r clutch.

Yeah yeah. I've read all that. I've drilled the shaft. Again that wasn't as difficult as the net would have you believe. Not really after opinions and hearsay here thanks guys. Just someone withactual experience of doing this conversion.

That's what I'll probably end up doing. Just currious if anyone else had encountered this. If some one has i 'll get busy with tbe die grinder and not waste any time looking for an issue that isn't there. As it stands though, i need ro have a closer look.

Done that bit. Simple enough. The output shaft spins fine.

All works fine till I clamp the cases up the final 10thou, then one of the gears catches, and the shaft will only turn a few degrees. I'll split the cases again at the weekend when I have more time, and have proper look.

Anyone else done this? specifically the later Bandit 1200 cases. I'm just chucking one together with a 750j/k gearbox and it looks like I need to clearance the case a little to clear one of the gears on the first motion shaft. Never heard of his being necessary. Surely the internet can't be wrong?

Great Shot, Great bike.

Some oil boilers have the breather exiting from the rear of the cover.

The most obvious reason it wont stay in neutral is if the spring for the detent wheel is broken. You can get to this with the sump removed but it will be a fiddle in the bike. Remove the sump will allow you to see if there are any major problems even though you'll need remove rhe lower case to actually replace anything. Removing the clutch and checking the selector ratchet mech is the next stage.

Aye.

Yep i'm pretty sure 3000 miles is the recomended service interval valve clearnce check on a lock nut adjusted oil boiler.

Which model ?

£8k !!!!!

Don't really need to do the sump depends on what exhaust you are using.

I tried this I got about 20 meters up my road before it returned to it's correct position, with a thud. Don't do it kids.

Slabbies don't have dog bones.... They're a bit of a pig to raise. 750's are easy enough as you can fit an 1100 link, or one of Funkymonk's billet versions. The simplest way on an 1100 is to fit a 06-08 Yamaha R1 rear shock, they are longer, so raise the rear a decent amount, and are sprung about right for fast road/trackday use on a Slabbie. You need to narrow the lower eye a little to fit, and fettle the link and swing arm a little to give clearance on full droop. Definitely a worth will and fairly cheap mod. Edit, there's an echo in here. @Markz9 did you get you ignition switch sorted? sorry I didn't reply to your text.

only 1052 cranks fit in the 750 cases don't they?

Yoshimura wheels on the white one.