Gixer1460

Don't follow a part diagram to establish lead placement - all engines running wasted spark run coil 1 to cyl's 1 & 4 and coil 2 to cyl's 2&3. Coil resistance quoted is too low - should be between 3 - 5 ohms NOT 1.8! At that resistance its drawing too many amps and would probably break down with overheating?

Then you'll have to sacrifice one and grind it thinner then measure with a micrometer and work out gaps or purchase the thinnest shim from suzuki parts and do the calcs. The latter is what I did when I got a M head with no shims at all! If you use the grinder, obviously don't use that one - its scrap!

Long Gone.

Just looking at that picture tells you it has NOT got a starter solenoid built in - all wires that can be seen won't carry more than about 20A. It may have a starter circuit to trigger an external solenoid that sits between the battery and the starter.

You've been lucky then as most people have problems - generally slippage and / or dragging!

Hope you've got the right size - there are two.......ask me how I found that out LOL!

The point is there are far more fragile things than the tee's ie. the floats or the carb tops! And contrary to your statement 'floats have pressure inside' - they do not - just atmospheric from when they were moulded and so they have to cope with external atmospheric air pressure plus boost pressure.

Ordinary normal fuel pipe is fine and the tee pieces will survive considerably more pressure than you will be throwing at them! You don't appear worried about the plastic floats being crushed so why the tee's in particular?

stick a potato in your exhaust and see how much it affects the inlet ! My point was exhaust backpressure (usually greater in 4-2 systems) will necessitate lower jet #'s as cylinders will not be able to evacuate burnt gases as efficiently and conversely intake charge. Drag engines don't run silencers / mufflers for the sound - it's the easiest way of ensuring cylinders are empty for new charge.

Ball park 138 - 145, if you read my bit above - still don't mean its going to run right!

A 4-2 is quite restrictive compared to a 4-1 therefore if it gets out quicker it also gets in faster and would automatically get leaner so usually 10-15% up jet is a starting point.

Doesn't fit UK supplied bikes and so I would assume yours also, based on your avatar?

I thought Dan Wagner's motor was GSX based with FBG dry billet block and a Ward cylinder head? I guess there is the cost against stroker engines but I think mine could go another 1mm on stroke and 1 or 2mm on bore so well into the 1500's LOL! Woody certainly flogged Seans 1460 and broke everything else but the crank so they can be strong. As regards weight - yes they do weigh a bit more but as they are 'one off's' weight can be pared off some areas and added to strengthen other areas. As regards mine, it got Carrillo rods and Cosworth pistons for turbo use, so it all balanced out and uses lower piston speed / rpm's, and the extra wasn't an issue.

Just had a quick look through my printed APE catalogue and they say 1277cc / 83mm can be done in a Big Bore liner in stock block casting (not recommended though) but 85 and 86mm bore sizes need the Big Bore cylinder as well. Trying to find one of those these days is really hard but they are very stealthy !

Not sure that it can be done - GSF liners are the biggest OD liners that will fit oil cooled barrels without leaving the barrel casting paper thin, hence why the 'overbore' barrels were created, to accept a liner capable of taking a 86mm piston for 1371cc. To go bigger needs a stroke job - oooh nurse! Usually drag racers are the most 'creative' when creating frankenstein capacity hikes but no one i've heard or read about has gone over 1371 - 87mm pistons would just be over 1402cc but no one as achieved it AFAIK! Its maybe why the oil cooled engines have never really been exploited in drag racing when the GSX aircooled motors can go out to 1800+ cc!

Everyone seems intent on big holes for the pistons but forgets about the even bigger holes in the cylinder block to hold the big liners - once you get that big there isn't much meat left in the block and in some cases the liners will break through to the fins. So you end up with thin liners (ie overbored) in a weakened barrel casting - No thanks, a gorilla block is much safer IMO!

I wouldn't! All the wideband install notes i've seen / read do not advise putting the sensor pre turbo due to the heat & back-pressure. I have one fitted there but its a sacrificial narrow band so I don't care - the WB is after though!

Use the gear indicator 'switch' fitted to 750 and 100 ET's - I believe they are different sizes / diameter hole in cases and not sure which one its the Bandit - it replaces the std. neutral 'switch'........ Part# 37720-45100 is 750 ET type Part# 37720-09300 is 1100ET type The 750 is about $77 whereas the 1100 is nearer $50 - amazingly still available in the USA! Or you could mod your own Bandit one - you'll see the wear track on the rear side - lowest next to existing pin is 1st, furthest wear spot is 5th with 2nd 3rd & 4th equally spaced between! Drill, glue in brass buttons and solder wires to outside side.

+ not exactly local to West London LOL!

Tool steel should have better properties than 'regular' steel - whether they are applicable to gudgeon pin requirements is debatable. I've seen nice pins out of a GSXR - 20mm dia. that were deffo thick across the centre bore and chamfered to the outer edges maybe 2mm thick where they sit in the pistons - sort of makes sense, strongest at the single load point then shared to either side of the piston.

Second vote for Mr Cooper - race wins trumps all IMO.

Enthusiast lists aren't foolproof but using Suzuki's normal code methodology the V710 will have changed to V711 (as your's is marked) on the change of cam drive ie. the 'M' series. Assuming the head on yours is screw & locknut style, I wonder if someone has swapped out the M head to an earlier one as they didn't like the shim style?

Well if it is U703 - it shouldn't have that on the barrels..........someone's been playing with it!

Not sure if this is right / wrong and universal to all stud types, but the head ones i've used, generally have a short thread and a long thread either end and i've always threaded the short end into the case up to the end of the thread - never bottomed one out. My reasoning is the longer thread is designed to cope with different barrel / head heights so providing sufficient thread for nuts in all situations. Case studs (M6 and M8) I fit with long thread in fixed case position with nut on short thread as they don't ever vary.

DOH ! LOL!