billyam998

45mm spacing

update, I have tried the tap either way around, forward it hits in the head, rearward it hits on the carb top, the shop that installed it, had packed the rubbers at the rear of the tank but, this in turn was causing the lugs for the side panels to be out of position stressing the lugs, more investigation required.

twin feed

Probably been done to death already but, my limited searching has not found anything. Can anyone advise on alternatives to the OEM vacuum tap - GSXR1100M, I have had a pingel fitted and, either its been fitted wrong - 180 degrees out or there are deeper issues, it currently hits / touches on the oil feed to the cam cover, the adaptor plate is offset but, I'm not sure why the shop decided to fit it so that it was closer not further away from the engine - is the hole in the tank offset as well? Obviously I need to remove the tnk to investigate but, I was wondering what everyone elses experiences were and, how the improved upon the acknowledged dreadful vaccuum tap.

Well, the project has moved on to wiring and, it seems that the previous owners couldn't resist having a go here either. The alternator has had a replacement regulator bodged in and, there has been some soldering going on. key question for me is to confirm which way round the two output wires go, there is a thick red one and, a slightly thinner orange one. If someone could post a picture or drawing of their alternator showing which way round the wires (Items 17 and, 18 in the pic - I know 18 is the screw but I'm sure you get the idea ) go it would be a great help. - thanks.

err no you can't , not if you don't have any clearance to start with. That's my problem. I've tried shuffling what shims I do have around using the smallest one available still too tight to measure a gap. so I need some thinner shims to get a start point.

Hello again, well the build is progressing slowly and, after getting the head repaired and, 1216 big bore, the top end is back together (almost) problem is that when I had the head repaired I also got SEP to regrind the valves and, new stem seals so, all the clearances have gone completely. So, the question is, is there anyone in the Loughborough, leicester, Derby area that can lend me a shim kit so I can figure out what shims I need? (beer tokens for the hire obviously) If no lends about, does anyone have any recommendations for source of a kit? - GSXR1100M

hello, thankyou, I did used to frequent here some time ago when I was rebuilding the gk76 but haven't been on for some time.

well the massively expensive basket case 1100m rebuild continues, latest tale of woe is carb rubber / /carb mismatch so brand new set of rubbers ordered :-( oh well it probably would have needed them anyhow. So following that£200 bombshell this months budget is pretty much all used up but, I'm still on the look out for an exhaust, I have a bandit 1200 sump to fit so that opens up more options, there is an nice Hindle system for a RF 900 on fleabay, will it fit? I seem to remember seeing an exhaust compatibility chart somewhere but cannot find it??

update, had a response from the team at SEP, £70 +vat to weld up and, re drill / tap the head which, isn't as bad as I expected it to be, head has to come off which, probably isn't a bad thing as it probably could do with new stem seals anyway.

thankyou - it's even better when you use the quote function correctly

edit - Yes, I have already sent an enquiry to them, I've used them before but not for this kind of repair.

Hello, I'm currently rebuilding a 1100m Basket case that the previous owner had had for 12 years 10 of those years it was in bits. I'm already in too deep to abandon it but, with the latest finding (there have been many others) I really feel like giving up :-( I would appreciate peoples views on wether the damage to the cylinder head exhaust thread pictured is repairable or, if I should start looking for a replacement - which brings a second question as bandit 1200 bits seem much more easy to obtain. Is it possible to have it welded up and, re drill / tap in situ or, has the head got to come off? Any recommendations as to who to use to repair this? -I'm in the midlands - Leicestershire. Otherwise apart from weld repair / salvage, what options do I have? Possibly replace cylinder head or, complete engine? Would a Early bandit 1200 head be a straight swap? If it is not worth the aggro, there are several bandit 1200 engines on Eblag at the moment for what I see as reasonable money, would all the other bits off the M - cdi, coils, carbs etc work with the 1200 engine?