Gixer1460

Took me three times as long to download than to find the info............. you can't adjust it - its fixed to stop tampering! PS you can't get better than a genuine manufacturer workshop manual!

For a NA engine those numbers around idle / mid range are waaaay to rich, almost potentially bore wash rich! Yes address the MJ but that is an area the gets used the least and it the carbs are off anyway you might as well jet and needle down the bottom end at the same time! Also for consistency, tuning on the road needs the engine under load so you need a looooong uphill stretch - a long flat just flatlines the load once you hit a particular rpm! Not knocking the enthusiasm but this could all be done in an hour on a dyno?

Be wary with a run in 5th ! All dynojet dyno's have a speed limit of 200mph wheel speed hence why most use 4th - don't know about others but a half ton roller @ 10k rpm would pretty much go through anything if it got loose LOL!

Is this occurring on the dyno? It's a fairly abnormal operating condition ie. high load (tall gear) applied at a low rpm. If the dyno run was done 'all gear' you'd probably find it doesn't occur or to a lesser degree as the wheel speed is higher at lower load (gear) so the lock up tend to engage and apply pressure - just a theory?

If I don't deliver it in 'the nicest way' it's because you frustrate the hell out of me! A lot of us learnt this the hard way, before the internet and instant response answers either from fathers, brothers, relatives or one step at a time with a few tools and a manual for guidance! Stop thinking about shit you don't understand, stop buying crap you don't know how it works and spend the best $25-30 you'll ever spend and just buy a f**kin manual that will pretty much answer all your questions!

High maintenance Drama Queen LOL! I used to take dry plates out and put clean dry plates back into Kev's ProMod slider for consistency - no oil ever on those fibres, just brake cleaner LOL!

He won't listen ! And he doesn't know what std. is as he hasn't bought a manual yet!

You've two ratio's to deal with. 1st is master cyl bore area vs. Caliper piston bore area - this influences the pressure exerted on the pistons and lever travel will be a function to achieve that. 2nd is lever pivot ratio ie. how far the Master cyl. piston is moved relative to lever movement. Both will have an influence on lever movement and feel. With a multi adjustable lever the brake lever can develope the same line pressure but be light pull or hard pull, just be varying the pivot point / mechanical advantage in the perch!

Deffo fixed from below!

You need to work out total piston area of single piston against the double pistons. if comparable then the change from 14mm to 5/8" (15mm roughly) will have a slightly longer pull but pressure will be slightly higher. If the piston area is smaller (single to double) then the pull distance should be similar and opposite if greater. Only you'll know if the feel will be acceptable to you!

Not from 'Katana' model but fairly sure will be same unless they are engraved ? - still available . . . . . part # 11174-34201 in the USA at least @ about $30 each! Pssst. they aren't valve inspection covers - they are just covers!

I concur with Arttu's experience - my big hp turbo uses nothing more than 4x 12mm SS cap heads and SS nylocs - total. I know the pressure plate hub is fairly good condition ie. barely marked, its low miles but the engine has never not had a turbo fitted. Std.Suzuki plates and cheap as chips mineral oil changed regular seems to work. The old Kawazuki didn't run any weights on the arms at all - guess I was lucky?

wouldn't an inlet leak make the burn hotter due to lean / excess air unless it's so leaky as to not run properly which should be more obvious ?

There are - look again !

May not be of much benefit there due to lack of air movement! Better places are clutch chest / cover and cam cover / chain tunnel. Any blow-by (and those pistons look plenty prone) needs venting - bigger bore the better.

The real problem with stroking a bike engine is unlike auto engines where conrod alternatives are viable option to allow just resize the BE & regrinding the BE offset, with bikes the variations are small and often don't compliment the small ends so you have to either find a shop capable and competent to either use stick, TIG welding or spray metal build up, remachine an offset pin and then grind back to stock journal size - quite expensive or pony up for a new billet crank - very expensive. I'd guess the former to be at least the cost of a bore and piston job, possibly 50% more whilst the latter (in my case) was 3x the cost of bore and pistons (which was done bigger as well LOL!) Psssst - turbo's give TORQUE and lots of power - makes a really good street bike LOL!

Why do you need such a huge cooler? Even a race bike would be pushed to need one that big - they are called air cooled for a reason!

Stroked motors generally make better torque which is better for a street bike but that's not 'trendy' or 'on point' with those that like revs as your example would probably redline at about 8500 - 9000! With the extra stroke I think the thin sleeves may become a weak point. My 1460 took a bit more than just case boring and some sleeves!

Why stroke a baby one - bore it to 85mm and add a 5mm stroke - proppa!

Really not worth it until you are seeing over 250hp - makes more sense spending the money on a proper full engine balance job IMO!

Not saying don't do it, but +30cc's makes two tenths of fuck all difference compared to a 1216 kit but the bores will be more flexible and with a 1216 kit you do have the option of another overbore if it all goes tits up?

Eh? I see no fizzy ?

But for us - are they the 36mm bore (40mm OD) GSXR1100 from J - L models or 40mm bore from M/N models - as there seems to be confusion what is measured for description!

We still haven't established what carbs you have - early GSXR's had 34mm, most had 36mm inc Blandits, some 750's had 38mm and the latter 1100's had 40mm - all bore sizes. That advert is confusing as a single rubber seems to fit multiple size carbs! Also its not just the diameter that is an issue, the mounting angles should be correct for an easy fit! Yes OEM are expensive but they are designed to fit correctly!

ALL carbs are measured internal bore size!