Gixer1460

As a couple of posts up - Motul Mineral 10w/40 so that's pretty well ruled out although not entirely ! I still want to know about the fibres and clutch metal parts wear ?

And it doesn't break at the most inconvenient moment! Had two cables break and one almost ready to against hydraulics that once bled were faultless and never touched again - just sayin' like!

Info from American Performance Engineering (APE) website.

And wear, chrome being harder than steel. All true if they were actually chrome bores . . . . . which they aren't! The Busa block is all aluminium, no steel liners, and uses Nikasil coating - Nickel Silicon Carbide, harder than Chrome and plated onto Aluminium allows tighter piston to bore clearances and better heat transfer. EDIT : Suzuki actually use a patented coating SCEM ( Suzuki Composite Electro-Chemical Material) which uses Nickel Phosphorus Silicon Carbide.

Totally unnecessary on an 1100 - keep it for 'baby' 750's. And more feel argument is bollux IMO - hydraulic fluid is non compressible ie. pressure in = pressure out, cables stretch / compress = less accuracy ! All reasonable points. And if that lever is static / at rest, then something is deffo incorrect - I would expect to at least stretch my fingers straight to start pulling a correctly functional lever & clutch! I think std bore size is 14mm? but don't quote me on that!

I don't make the rules - I just explained them! Explaining anything to the 'knuckle draggers' at the DVLA is a mostly pointless exercise generally 'Computer say's No!' And, just out of interest, how much of that bike ^^^ is actually OEM stock - I don't care, just curious?

Apparently - 1170cc / 75mm bore with stock liners. Or 1260cc / 78mm bore with different liners in a stock block - any larger has to go Gorilla style block + liners, then the sky's the limit! Anything with a OEM block should be ok with some extra oil cooling for street use - maybe not city use though! A few people have used Gorilla blocks on street bikes in the UK without drama's but these tend to be WELL cared for bikes, not a daily beater!

You haven't mentioned whether the fibres are OEM or aftermarket . . . . . general advise is OEM even for extreme use's! You say the plates are fine but are they in spec for thickness?? Other thing to check is notching of basket and hub - will cause symptoms described also a dry or frayed clutch cable won't help! If it was working and has got worse over time its liable to be wear / oil related, if its suddenly changed then something has broken or failed and if symptoms have changed after work then its something in the assembly that is different.

The DVLA have tightened up the regulations severely in the past 5-10 years to stop the 'grandfather' rights of swapping / moving a chassis number from old to new. This is still permissible (I believe) if the new frame is essentially a reproduction / replica of the original ie. copy a GSX crap steel frame in chrome moly - same loops, angles etc. so std. mechanicals fit using std. fixings. In the classic car world, reproduction shells for Mini's, MGB's and Escorts are being produced 'aftermarket' no different as when 'service shells' were available from the original manufacturer - these can retain their original registration mark. A Spondon / Harris / Moto Martin / Martek etc. frame doesn't qualify - they are not exact replica's and so have to go through the MSVA test - requirements are available online - and if passed, you WILL be issued a 'Q' plate!

There's clever - when the missus gets home and finds a cylinder head in the dish washer, you can legitimately blame the child LOL!

Personally for main coolers, I've always gone for -10 lines if only for less restriction / better flow rate. Yes they'll get hot in traffic - answer is - don't sit in traffic LOL! I had a 300mm wide. 19 row on my Kawazuki that kept up most of the time sufficiently that over heating never worried me. And my 'big' engine just has a std. 'M' curved rad under the seat with an R6 fan added, which seemed to do ok, although as a 'road bike' it was never flat out for long. If I was worried, I think a top end / head cooler might be more of a benefit and I'd use -8 hose with that !

Not a fuckin' hope in hell ! GS engines are about 4" / 100mm bigger in every direction that matters! Now a teenie tiny watercooled modern GSXR1000 could be a hoot!

Spawn of Satan those bloody things ! ! ! With that snapped off in there there's two 'easy' options (well 3 but last isn't a good one) 1. Spark erosion 2. Weld a nut onto the stub or 3. Bin the head and buy another !

Do people not know about Google? . . . . . . https://www.ripplerockracers.com/product/suzuki-oil-cooler-adapter-fits-gs550-650-750-1000-1100/

Should go into gear if engine off - if so, leave engine off and rock the bike back and forth with clutch pulled in and bump it off the clutch - it should free off without going internal! NOTE : BUMP as in the clutch - not BUMP as in bump starting it ! ! !

And I believe more critically - the bore spacing and consequently the cylinder stud spacing is all to cock also!

No, No and No. Work - loads if not impractical!

Did they have the shim valve adjusted head like the GSXR's - only difference I can think of that they might have had for those years?

Keep up boyz, you're only a year behind the curve LOL! And seeing as the OP hasn't returned in nearly a year, he doesn't care either !

I've never run a silencer just dump pipes so can't comment on their use but like most exhaust systems, back pressure is the enemy! Don't believe anyone who says you need backpressure - only if you want to hamstring your engine you do! Although a turbo will take a lot of the energy out of the exhaust through the turbine, it still has heat with a degree of pressure based on flow and putting this into a pipe (even an open one) that is smaller dia. than the turbine outlet, will create a restriction. This is primarily why, particularly on cars, the post turbine pipes are 3 - 4" diameter with similar size through pipes in whatever silencer is fitted. The silencer needs to be an absorption type not a labyrinth or baffled type - they just cause backpressure! Its a law of diminishing returns on a bike - need big dia. pipes, no space to fit them, need big silencers, no space & they look fackin' ugly! So how much power do you sacrifice to benefit from quiet riding?

The fact it runs, although badly, would indicate the valves are working satisfactorily - if the engine HAS sat for 24 years then there is a strong possibility that the rings are stuck on the pistons allowing for the piss poor compression results. Sometimes soaking with diesel will free them off and running helps but I think with those results it is going to be a top end strip, clean and rebuild ! Oil in the cylinders may indeed improve the numbers - maybe up to spec. minimums! #4 deffo has problems if it won't even run!

You could test compression again with the carbs off, they don't need to be fitted! Even cold, i'd expect numbers above 160-170psi and upto about 195psi if warm. Absolute minimum would be around 110-115psi and variation between cylinders - no more than 10-15%.

As these engines don't generate massive oil pressure, the fact that it cracked open at all would indicate the threads in the case are fubar'd! The bolts you are using are likely just catching the remaining threads at the bottom of the holes - this isn't a sustainable situation. It would be better to remove the exhaust and install some helicoils or Timeserts and add some stainless studs back in with ideally the correct domed nuts as Swiss Toni has noted above - they do get frequent use changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles / yearly.

I wouldn't use a OEM GSXR cooler on an EFE - they are designed and sized for an oil cooled engine! Using one on an air cooler engine would probably ensure the oil NEVER reached operating temperature! Compare a pic of a GSXR cooler to Rick's above for comparison. A stock EFE oil cooler is even smaller ! ! !

You are confusing me! You HAVE JE pistons but AREN'T using JE rings? Are these JE pistons custom 'one off's' and did you supply ring dimensions? If you didn't, then I don't see how JE are supposed to know what size to machine so have machined usual for them? Why are you not using JE rings? - Total Seal rings work ok.