Gixer1460

I hate doing the imperial to metric conversions so maybe completely 'off the chart' with this . . . . . 1 inch = 25.4mm. 1/1000th inch = 0.0254mm. Most piston manufacturers 'rule of thumb' is 4 thou per inch of bore size, so assuming 78mm bore? = 3 inches give or take, so 4 x 3 = 12 thou clearance which equals 0.3048mm ? So by my math your piston to bore @ 0.14mm is waaay to tight? - A knowledgeable adult may be along shortly to correct me LOL!

I believe you have to fit the older GSX cover for correct flow without a cooler OR make a link pipe from one port into the other externally to achieve the same thing.

As MB49 says - you are trying to equalise the pressure applied over the surface of the fuel in the bowl with the pressure required to force fuel into the bowl. Ideally Normal atmospheric ie. gravity + boost but that never works LOL! You are trying to make the carb think it is running NA so it functions exactly the same.

Ha Ha Ha ! Good question . . . . . in my case money, lots of money LOL! Mind you I didn't spend most of it, that was the guy who started and run out of money! I just put all his parts together and made them work. My engine is big - cubes help anytime! Set up as a turbo and with the boost pipe disconnected it still made around 180 rwhp - found that out when doing the mapping as a good NA fuel map (I think) is essential to put boost on top of. Apart from being enlarged, the engine is std. tuning, flowed head, bigger valves (still shim 'M' head btw!), intercooler and a one off Kroll camshaft that was ground for this engine. I will get back to this one day as there is still more power to be made.

Simple answer - Yes! Whole basis for making power is moving air and the easier it can be done the better. An un-ported intake induces drag needing more force (boost) to overcome it ( very simplistic). So if the air path is smoother, less turbulent, more direct you will require less boost to achieve the same HP (providing the fuel is there obviously) or conversely use the same boost as before and make more power! I've seen some of BJ's 'skulled' heads for use with TF and nitrous ProMod engines - a lot of work and engineering involved but lush!

We used Robinson Auto boxes in the Comp and Funnybikes - very good pieces and definately fit for purpose - multiple championships and wins don't lie!

And all used in a 40 year old internally rusty frame - the mounts are sound, they'll just be attached to bits of tubular rust on the floor LOL!

I used to run 10psi with old skool suck through and used the std cam cover breather tower, an additional dash 10 out of the cam cover, a dash 10 from centre of clutch cover and a dash 8 out of the filler fitting - all to a vented recirc catch tank except the dash 8 that went to a open catch bottle. Too much? Maybe, but it didn't smoke or leak oil through gaskets!

Dirtbike - I assume a 2 stroke? Head gaskets in multiple packs makes sense as they used to be stripped almost weekly due to piston replacement after seizing LOL! A lot of them were copper just for the multi use aspect using a blow torch trackside to re-anneal.

You just need to remove sharp edges - if it looks or feels sharp then round it off. A thin sharp section will heat up to the point where it will cause pre-ignition or detonation which is a piston killer so nice smooth edges and job done. More people are reporting use of the MaxSpeeding Rods but don't believe their claim of using ARP bolts - they ain't so budget for a set of Real ARP rod bolts. They ain't Carillo's but they ain't Carillo prices either!

A lot of race bike builders actually block it off as splash lube generally sufficient.

The speedo healers fit between the sprocket counter and the speedo guage in the wiring. Some have a calibration procedure that usually counts the pulses from the sprocket whilst travelling over a measured distance - 10m, 100m, 1km or a mile - just needs to be accurate. The one above relies on knowing actual difference between speedo reading & actual speed via GPS or difference in % of gearing change. Once that is set, the speedo healer outputs the correct pulses to drive the speedo to show the correct speed. Think - taking your pulse over 30 seconds, multiple x2 and you get beats per minute.

Hmmm - i'm surprised its actually running at 22 AFR as most engines need to idle at 15:1 or less / richer. Never normally see 22:1 until in a closed throttle, engine over-run situation ie. injectors off.

IMO it depends on what bearings are fitted! If traditional plain oil fed bearings then all water cooling can be blocked. If it has a ball bearing core with a plastic cage then I wouldn't run it without water cooling at all - the cages are moderately delicate and suffer with excess heat. If the bearings have metal cages then you could either leave them dry or could run oil through them - it will pull some heat away - not as good as water but the bearings aren't as delicate!

Blow some LOW pressure air through each one - the water passages will have very little resistance, the oil ones a bit more!

I think the 'olive green passivate' coating is similar to that used extensively on aircraft panels, mainly I think as an anti corrosion measure, cracks being a bad thing at 35,000ft! For a swing arm pivot, its not really loaded as such, just there to hold the bearings and spacers but obviously given its location on a bike, corrosion could be an issue so protection warranted?

'From the Manual' settings are great for initial set up but are based on brand new bikes with brand new components which neither of yours are! You adjust things to make them work or how you want them to feel - I don't think any 'seasoned' bike mechanic adjusts controls 'by the book' Wear has a big effect on how things work and feel!

LOL's - predictive text eh! Don't you love it !

It will and if you think a bit of polyurethane foam, that isn't directly in the firing line of a 630 chain travelling at 100mph, will do any good in that respect, you best buy a lottery ticket!

I Understand the process, just not that particular phrase!

What?

You may not have given a number but you agreed with Swiss Toni who did quote 10No., so to normal people that's saying a multi pack could well be 10No.! And a couple of bike shops actually - not employed but worked at and they either ordered in single quality head gaskets for a performance application or top end sets for 'run of the mill' rebuilds. Excess stock on the shelf is just dead money. I stand by my comments so we'll agree to disagree!

80's electrics and rain - not a good combination! Good soak of WD40 on any exposed elec. plugs, sockets, and plug caps won't hurt to start with. How good is the fuel tank cap rubber - water getting in there will sink to bottom of tank and then into carbs ...... it has been known!

Why would any dealer want 10 head 1100 EFE gaskets sitting on the shelf - along with 10 of every other gasket, for how many models of bike Suzuki has sold! That's BS! - a dealer would order in a top end or bottom end gasket set, the same as anyone else! You might order in bulk and receive a discount but they'd still be individually packed!