Gixer1460

It's not the pulling apart that's difficult - its the re-assembly that's the tricky bit unless you take it for rebalancing! Youtuber's manage to fuck up anything but say it with such knowing authority that people believe them! I know how to do it and always let a shop that specialises do it - having a potentially unbalanced wheel spinning at 150k rpm just below the jewels made that decision easy!

Best specialist there is - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/

I stand corrected - DOH! I was aware of the reworked GSXR1000 units - maybe I just don't get the benefits ?

You've probably found your answer - they weren't a thing back in the days when these were race bikes and as not really competitive now, no one is likely to gear up to design and make a batch to sell maybe a couple?

Er - only a few thousand times . . . . . probably LOL! More modern engine although getting on for 30+ years old, looks lost in the AC frame, needs bigger oil cooler, carbs will be equally bad to set-up with age, more powerful generally although less torque, likes a smaller gauge chain, hardcore oldskoolers will either hate it or love it!

No need to shout about being small and not normal LOL!

And they are real simple devices - contact plate and spring. Could be just a dirty contact - they are 40+ years old after all!

The seals are O rings in parallel bored holes - they auto adjust for the height difference!

EH? AFAIK The plug thread size is same as all oil cooled GSXR's - 12mm. Cracking between the plug and the valve inserts is well known in 4V engines and doesn't affect the use of a head at all - not unusual to see multiple cracks across all cylinders. Don't work about the CR causing cracks - worry about the CR and the quality of the fuel you are using with high CR's . . . . . . detonation is the thing to worry about -it'll eat plugs, pepper a cyl. head, overheat valves and melt holes in pistons but the valve seats will still be sitting there!

I said that up top - but no one was listening LOL!

Wow - you made 5 posts out of a total of 7 since you joined in 2015, for a post that was dead 3 years ago - that's got to be a record LOL! Shame the OP never returned - he may have learned something!

Whilst some may say excessive I had a -8 from oil filler, -8 from cam cover std. breather, additional -10 from cam cover and a -10 from center of clutch cover! The -10's went to a vented and recirculating catch can, the -8's to a plain open catch can.

Sure it is the 'dry' stud and not wind blown from the drain pipe (for example - far more likely source!) If you haven't increased crankcase ventilation - it certainly won't be helping to not get leaking seals and gaskets!

Make up a new copper extension pipe with a M5 thread or make a plug with M5 thread and then try to re-tap with M4. Could be tricky as M4 - M5 has not a lot of material between the cut threads.

My first look would be the RH switch assembly - get it apart and liberal quantities of contact cleaner to all contacts whilst operating the switches! Sounds like the power is being cut intermittently so acting like a 'rev limitter'

Whether they did anything is debatable outside of Suzuki R&D but the theory goes like this - on a bike with a fairing the area inside it and around the carbs is a low pressure zone which messes with carb function (how much is anyone's guess!) The nose on a fairing exhibits high pressure and possibly 'venting' some of that high pressure 'ram air' into the inter fairing low pressure zone reduces its effect! On the flip side many, many bikes with and without fairings use carbs successfully so maybe its all hype and marketing bollux!

Could be gummed up rings or it could be glazed bores from never been ridden hard enough! I bought a 7,000 mile old bike that was 20 years old and it always smoked for a good 5 - 10 minutes on start up - never got any better in 25k miles - eventually got so fed up with it, I replaced all the rings and completed an Italian tune up - never smoked ever again!

More likely rings based on those symptoms - and if they've gone its time for valve seals as well cos they won't be much better!

It shouldn't spark with engine not turning UNLESS the trigger wheel has stopped exactly over the pick-up but even then it should only spark once at 'key on'. The system requires the trigger wheel to pass the inductive pick-up to induce a voltage to trigger the ign. electronics. Faulty sealed electronics are a PITA to trouble shoot!

If a dyno doesn't have decent cooling fans - i'd find a better dyno! Insufficient cooling is never good whether its NA or turbo !

Personally I'd try to not go richer than about 11:1 and with decent EFI control maybe 12:1, but with carbs AFR is a crap shoot! IMO as long as everything else is ok ie. Ignition retard on boost, boost control, cooling a 14:1 AFR on boost isn't bad just not optimal but if one of those things gets out of whack then that's why richer mixtures are recommended but tooo far is also not good - excess fuel through the turbine can burn up blades! Eblag jetting - stage 5 means nothing! Garage and seat of the pants tuning can only take you so far - put the bike on a dyno and get it set right without guesswork!

Can we talk about what oil now then? LOL!

Only cos most of new bike riders are gurls and never done manual labour. Hard work generates strength. . . . . strength beats GSX clutch everytime LOL! Next the factories will come up with power brakes and power steering for the delicate darlings ! ! !

Even a good used set of OEM fibres and steels are better than new EBC one's - seriously! And probably about the same price! As said measure first as OEM fibres will take a beating before being un-servicable - we never threw a fibre away unless it was burnt up, cracked or missing pieces!

Not sure on this but 'virgin replacement cases' come unstamped, so that old scrap case number may be re-used. Possible that a race team had used 'new' cases and just stamped an identifying number for their purposes? What does the V5 say for engine number?