Gixer1460

Yep - hands up, you got me with that one LOL! The other was intentional ! ! !

RarER than a rare thing, that IS a very rare thing indeed! It's unusual to see one, on the road, at least round HERE it is! Fackin' grammar on here is shocking ! LOL!

As being mechanical and driven by the engine, they cannot drain the oil in the turbo or delivery pipework after shutoff. This can be sufficient to back up from drain to turbo bearings and leak through into both turbine & compressor housings giving the smokey start-up syndrome. Obvs electrical pumps can run on after shut-down so minimise the effects.

Or Rare even - Steak or Collectables!

Are you sure they are 10mm - most GSX / GSXR use 12mm plugs?

Which is - what? Looks like summat a doctor sticks in yer ear!

No Idea! - I've never used coils that far out of spec!

They may be good for older points style ignitions but not for transitorised modern types - I'd complain / send them back as not fit for purpose! 3.0 - 3.5ohms is about spot on although some have run Dyna Grey coils @ 2.2 ohms but not recommended with std electronics!

An 1100 variant would be best but any of the lower capacity ones will work if they fit (probably will). Timing won't be optimal but they aren't exactly hi tech accurate devices so will be adequate.

Answers in order 1 - It will if the float valves in the carbs are worn as the floats won't be able to stop fuel flow. If the excess doesn't leak out on to the floor warning you of the problem, there is the potential to leak into the crankcase, diluting the oil and possibly hydro-locking when you try starting! 2 - Hope you ordered 4 kits ! ! ! 3 - Its a moisture drain - doesn't need connecting to anything.

They ain't designed to be excessively wet with fuel though! Rich AFR may be tolerated till they foul but not recommended!

Good point re: Big Injectors - that's the advantage running 8!

I would guess that either method would be ok - vacuum sense or not, if the map was created whilst using vac sense or not, the mapped values would automatically include the differential in pressure but as said it is a minimal effect in reality. My bike got mapped NA first and included vac sense to create a baseline map to which boost was added as a compensation. As the FPR saw both + / - pressure it gave the injectors delivery a 'static' pressure of 3 bar.

Clip arrangement looks std factory - but thats not an H4, it is a single 'filament' H1 or H7 FYI

Just for balance, I haven't lapped ANY valves since I owned a Mini Cooper in the 90's! New valves with fresh cut seats or re-used valves back in their original holes, fit, gap, forget - job done.

In the US of A a lot of bracket racers use 'air powered / released' clutches linked to delay boxes all to obtain the exact class bracket times - more f**kin complication LOL!

Or just re-drill the bars so the switch locating pin fits more inboard?

So logic then says they'd have used end of the line oily GSXR bits not totally new parts not produced for another 5 years in the future LOL! Search me - looks converted!

AFAIK oily GSXR clutches are all 4 spring not 5! It does look peculiar though!

Have you got the airline in the right place? Can't see where the clevis mounts but the ram looks fairly well near full extension so won't have much force behind it. I used to try and get the ram about 1/2 way through its total travel or a little less when fitted to the gear shift shaft, just enough to allow unpowered downshifts without binding or bottoming out.

Unfortunately I concur - its a case of where do you stop! Personally that pitting doesn't look terrible - i'd use it at a push! With the amount of carbon its a strong possibility the rings are shot so you'll have to check them and make a judgement call whether to re-use them and risk a smokey engine with a limited lifespan whilst saving for a proper job or spend the money now! The valve seats just need a 'kiss' with a cutter and valve's could be re-cut in a lathe or grinder. That will recess the valves a little but not enough to make a huge difference unless valve lash is shim adjusted as they'll all be wrong. Rings - if bores are within spec, I'd glaze bust them / VERY light hone and use new rings. You are spending out for a top end gasket set whatever you do so no further expense there. No idea on cost but shouldn't be that spendy except for the rings!

Generally only a problem with bikes used for 'competition' - drag racing or road racing (heavy accell and braking) where oil surge can occur or engine run with low oil levels. Its is 'rarely' an issue with normally used / maintained road bikes. Repositioning the pick-up tubes and/or lowering the unit does cause their own problems so not a 'fix all' solution.

Its will certainly work as 'back in the day' a 2" SU off a Jag was 'de rigeur' carb on supercharged installations. A 1 1/2" is 38mm and maybe a bit small, especially as its a 'CV' carb. An 1 3/4" may be a better overall bet - like the HiF44 from a Metro Turbo. Hardest bit will be tuning as can't imagine alternative needles are as common as they used to be?

I'm confused? Head is secured by studs and nuts, once the studs and washers are off you only need to lift the head about 2" to remove. Usually the pain is the cam chain tensioner blades but they all give in eventually. Many heads removed in frame on many bikes so it is definitely possible.

Bit extreme! HG can be done in frame relatively easily FYI!