Gixer1460

Thanks - I'm glad you got the intent of my post.

Its a bit necky to technically be 'ripping off' a companies maps to use in someone else's software without paying for it!

Cos they are hidden away behind a fairing! Never taken Blandit clocks apart so can't answer the question - have you tried? The GSXR clocks are 'sealed' units but can be taken apart if careful as seen by folks replacing broken needles, but how you'd then mount the guts and stop them falling to bits through vibration / water etc. is anyones guess!

But 50 + 17 = 67 but wouldn't likely fit or work! The number is inconsequential - if the gears were cut on a different pitch but same diameter, the teeth count would be different but ratio could be the same / better / worse. Its the same as final drive chains a 630 and a 530 sprocket could have the same diameter but tooth count would be wildly different giving a different overall ratio.

Deffo WC engine carbs need re-spacing generally between 2 & 3!

I would concur on 83 being the last model year so the 84 is likely wrong unless it was really late production! Modern database searches won't work with non 16 character VIN's, a Suzuki dealer should be able to assist!

LOL - some wear ! ! ! Anything can be reclaimed whether it is economical is another matter. That cam journal would require metal spraying and re grinding - cost probably 2 or 3x the cost of a good s/hand one, head could be shelled out, I believe Z900 bearings are used but never seen it done and the cost ??? against a good s/hand one. But unless its a trick of the light the ex. valves look like they've been kissing the piston as well ! So they could be bent and / or you've a big end that's going allowing excessive float. All looks spendy!

Its not the total number of teeth that is important ! Its the ratio that they give that matters - 34/33=1.03030 but 38/29=1.31034 so the latter turn the pump approx 25% faster - That's the important bit!

That means Vizman wants it ! ! ! LOL

That worked well enough for me also - I added a nipple into each inlet rubber to allow common connection across them with take offs for MAP, BOV and FPR. I do think the manifold idea would tidy up the plumbing though.

Should turn out neat - might pinch that idea myself LOL!

Probably good advice for a shell bearing'd crank but rollers and needle bearings have a little more 'give' and 0.75mm is pretty tight even for shell bearings! I don't think i'd like less than 1.0mm squish in these 'old' engines, assembled (as that is what matters) - just my opinion!

I just love the 'ideal rider weights for stock springs' - I guess only kids were meant to ride most of them not 'real' men / ladies ( got to be PC!)

I dunno - it could be carb related ! ! ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ok i'm heading for the door LOL!

IMO if the figures are accurate ie. its a newish sensor, I'd say its spot on! Still rich enough to be safe - max power is normally about 13.2:1. On carbed bikes its difficult to get accurate AFR numbers without lean spikes - using 11-12 AFR's gives comfort zone but isn't ideal. This is where EFI scores big.

It may work using a Dyna S, and yes you'll need the earlier ATU to provide timing advance but you'll also need the cover from the earlier model as well as use of the ATU requires a deep cover - just like doing it on an EFE / GS1150. Other option for a bolt on is Dyna2000 / other aftermarket Ignition unit.

I used to try and have triggers on the actual shift shaft lever, both Q/S or airshift to eliminate as much 'slop' as possible. Getting creative with brackets can achieve a decent mount allowing an std. footrest / lever arrangements to be retained. I've never tried the 'load sensing' rods but heard they are good.

I believe the cause was cutting the power to the ignition and not the coils. Some ignitions take a time to 're-sync' so can fire cylinders that are open inlet at the time - old skool turbo's were good for it - a reason a lot are fitted with plenum straps to the head! If the ignition is powered and coils killed, it stays sync'd and coils aren't charged so no spark . . . . . at least that how I stopped mine doing it! Really, the length of kill for a quickshift is really short - shorter than a airshifter which is 60-70msecs IMO. Adjusted correctly so kill occurs the moment the lever starts preloading the shift drum, i'd guess 30-40msecs is all thats needed to unload the transmission? Or buy an autobox with no shift kill at all LOL!

I can't answer specifically but shock swapping between models is a dark art unless the shock and linkage set-ups are 'broadly' similar! Subject to the shock mountings being correct, i'd lean towards a GSXR11M/N shock or maybe a Bindit12. The Hippo has the extra shaft drive mass to control so a shock from a modern lighter sportbike or a 'Budget build' Bindit 600 will unlikely satisfy IMO. Alternative is new aftermarket - places like 'Hagon' will build a shock to your requirements if you ask and aren't wildly expensive compared to OEM!

CV carbs like airboxes / plenums that provide a 'still air' environment. The dual pods provide a degree of this - individual pods don't. Many have tried singles then found duals work better! Can't explain why, but that's the general experience.

'Degree'd in' - never heard that term relating to con rod bolts ! Also ive never seen any spec's or recommendations for replacement - certainly in a stock engine that isn't being continually buzzed to the max, they are lifetime fitments IMO. But if they are subject to high stresses a lot and you do annual tear down inspections - measure a new set length (fitted and torqued), and compare the used ones to that figure. I'd replace any that have additional stretch more than 2-3 thou. - they are cheaper than blocks and pistons!

Thats a fairly lame excuse IMO ! Tools no more complicated than I listed and excluding the drill probably cost a £5 ! And you don't 'need' a shed or storage facility - if you work on / service your bike a tool box kept under the stairs or in the car boot isn't unknown - hell I carried my entire tool collection around in a toolbox behind the seat of my Mini for years! If you plan on fixing things, then you have to plan on breaking / making things beforehand - or is that a life skill that is disappearing since these bikes were 'new'?

I did wonder this myself ! If someone can't use a junior hacksaw, a file and a drill, they shouldn't be modifying motorcycles ! ! !

Nah that's not gonna work - they are both powered so will fight for supremacy - engine would probably win!

Those models, of that era, had pretty much non adjustable ignition so unless its been modified, what it came with is what you get! Ign. timing at idle will have a small effect but unlikely to cause your problems.