Gixer1460

Don't have experience myself but have seen a 'ghetto' install that was done by a 'well known' tuner for a shootout that didn't have a BOV and he managed to blow the carb tops clear off - whether through over boost or over-run boost spike I don't know, either way it went with a bang. IMO, the thing is, when closing the throttle @ 12psi boost, the already generated air flow which has velocity will hit the closed butterflies and can bend them, but because the air speed drops due to the restriction its pressure spikes upwards and is reflected back to the compressor blades possibly bending them. They may not break immediately but cycles of doing it over and over will fatigue them and they could break at WOT and then get ingested into the engine! So its not just the cheap Chinky turbo you risk but the engine as well! Personally i'd keep the BOV and fix the connection problem !

So a clutch that only works 'efficiently' when on the throttle? So, loads of throttle to pull away and tootling around town & the clutch would be slipping like a bastard? You are trying to fix a problem that isn't really there IMO!

90's are always an option - if you have them of course? LOL!

And would seem the sensible way bearing in mind the limited space and the daft price of 180 deg. fittings LOL!

Don't worry - it makes two tenths of fuck all difference! They are used plates anyway so will be oil soaked regardless!

As long as the area of the 'cross drilled' holes is greater than the bore up the center it won't make any difference how many holes are in it!

Is there an echo in here? LOL!

Won't that just move the problem to another area of operation ie. won't be able to change gear in high gears or at high rpm's?

LED's will only flow voltage in one direction - the indicators are powered / earthed one way for left, and reversed the other way for right hence why will work one way and not the other. This is assuming its only one dash warning light? If there are two then just correct orientation of the LED's should work!

Query - Why? Are those few thou for a steel / paper gasket so precious to gain against the leak potential?

Will still leak around the cam chain tunnel - return oil!

Apparently gasket makers like Cometic have quite specific surface finish requirements for their gaskets in terms of flatness and surface roughness as the gasket coating seals less the rougher the surface is, ideal is 40 - 45Ra, whatever that is LOL!

LOL ! Now you know - just wait till you get a broken strand thats inside the outer - that'll drive you nuts again! Now go ride the damn thing!

Simple answer - yes! GSXR had a deep Vee sump and a 4-2 exhaust manifold / collector that followed the vee, the GSX-F had a 'flat' sump with a dish bowl and also a 4-2 exhaust but the collectors were incorporated on to the mufflers, not integrated with the manifold, and was a flatter shape.

The OP is in the States and they got different model years to us in UK / Europe!

Not being funny but will a GSXR 750 actually go to and hang together at 14k ? Stock GSXR rev counters are about 1k 'happy' (12k actual when counter says 13k) so if you had an actual 14k redline you may find rod shaped holes in the block!

A single warning light has to be wired to the flasher relay before its output is routed to the direction switch which then routes it left or right - the two sides should never connect unless if fitted with a hazard light system. A dual warning light can be wired to each side after the relay as they are independent.

It is unlikely but it could be a faulty coil or a failing / failed plug wire - never say never! But a swap of 1 & 4 is still a good check!

What do you regard as 'big bore'? At 1.2bar boost you could still use Busa rods or GSXR (although they maybe marginal - most are good to about 280hp) Most H beam rods will need some degree of clearancing / case grinding. My 1460 GSXR is using a shim head - i've no worries about it! Shims are only problematic with high revs and buzzing the engine - mine makes peak power at about sub 9k rpm currently. For intercooler go bespoke - try these guys . . . . https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0066/8840/7655/files/brochure_2019.pdf?v=1599647498 Don't need 40mm carbs - they are a PITA to set up normally - use 36mm, easier to get right and find - just need a GOOD set! Dyna2000 works but there are better boxes, this seems to have a good rep on here - https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm Most Turbos like 'soft' cams ie good lift but short duration - if you have 'M' cams you are pretty much stuck with those as variations are thin on the ground - I had billet ones ground for mine to suit the application!

So the nurdy types and anal retentives would say but look at Dyna coils through the ages, no + or - on them and i've connected loads and never worried what goes where - It makes 2/10th difference to FA!

Fuck - that is so far 'out of left field' for a diagnosis i'd be worried if it were so! The carbs are rubber mounted back and front and so isolated from any frame flex and if the engine was flexing enough to cause a leak at the head / carb junction then the crank would bind long before ! Back to head scratching!

Don't get me wrong - I love Nitrous! But just not for this application. When your paying for stuff, melting pistons and bending valves / dropping heads, it can get old, very quickly but my god the hit with gas is electric LOL!

Don't do it ! Having raced with nitrous and around ProMod bikes running nitrous it is the most unpredictable performance enhancer available bar none! Many have tries with varying success using a 'little wake-up' shot of gas to get a low end boost. NOS MUST BE USED WOT - if not you risk real damage! Whoever said it has cooling effects is mad - it may have a small inlet cooling effect but its use produces stupid quantities of heat and get it wrong - component melting qualities! And the elephant in the room is . . . . . . . it always runs out! A 1lb bottle will give maybe 20 - 30 seconds @ 60hp hit, or maybe a minute @ 30hp hit. This is the quandary with turbo's, they suffer low down if you want a good top end. You either get a smaller turbo to boost earlier, and add water injection and intercooling to reduce max boost temps so reducing top end boost loss or drop a few teeth and live with the reduced top end. Sophisticated EFI / ECU's can help by adding fuel and retarding timing low down to build boost artificially but its the nature of the beast - you can't have everything!

Answers in RED

Isn't that a car plug size? I always thought they were M12 !