Gixer1460

Actually the part # is correct also 11141 - 49230 is correct. But both have been superceded by part # 11141 - 00A03. Information from AlphaSports. I would be more concerned that 'if genuine' a) why it was pictured clearly not in original packing and with random suzuki label and b) why you didn't get what was pictured and critically without the label! I smell a knock off gasket being passed off as original - its also its too cheap as everything even on Eblag is min. £69 + ! ! !

Whether they are OEM is questionable but look to be new! - https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/253140275267?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253140275267&targetid=1140298851293&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045753&poi=&campaignid=12126078222&mkgroupid=117237236135&rlsatarget=pla-1140298851293&abcId=9300480&merchantid=7205984&gclid=CjwKCAjwtJ2FBhAuEiwAIKu19uD0QsvwaW_mfbML4LLLuTDqX14RdH-XqAEs3CRdE40rhSMQFg2LUxoCyWcQAvD_BwE or https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gs1100--gs1150--hi-volume-oil-pump-gears/1105/ Checked my usual 'go to' places and they are all - nahda!

Of course they didn't - a 525 is certainly not a common fitment for a EFE! The majority of Suzuki's all have the same spline pattern / size. In worst case i'd buy a correct spline centre, machine off the tooth outer and match to a correct 525 tooth outer ring and weld together - if only to get correct offset which is bound to be unique.

You are joking right? - 5 minute search . . . . https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_search?s=suzuki+525+front+sprockets

There is no advantage - actually the opposite to a lesser degree. The paper gasket deforms into the oil gallery to stud passage and can limit oil flow 'in extreme' cases. Whether it would be enough to cause significant restriction is debatable but Suzuki San changed to expensive metal for a good reason!

Is the float ht. std or 'adjusted'? Obviously carbs are designed to seal only with gravity fuel pressure and any added pressure over that could be too much - i'd be tempted to back it off to 1psi or less? The boost added to the bowls and the FPR should keep it balanced.

I'm going to side with the blasters on this comment! They are blasters and you pay them to clean shit with abrasives - they are not necessarily engine experts so can't be expected to know what to or not block up - to inexperienced eyes, one oily hole is the same as another. If you don't want media left inside, you take every bung, bearing and plug out of every gallery and hot tank it in a pressurised cleaning tank or use soda media which dissolves with water and wash with a pressure washer or you take the responsibility to block up stuff that stays oily! Pro engine builders will strip and clean a block, machine it, clean it, dry build and adjust as req and clean again before final build.

Back to basics then - spark and fuel! A poor spark outside the cylinder will almost certainly be non existent inside under compression! New plugs all round is a good start, check gaps including the rotor / ign. pick-ups as that will give poor spark performance. Once you have good, fat blue sparks move on to carbs - & likely a world of pain and frustration!

I think you misunderstand how the thing functions? Nothing is in there to stop 'the engine turning backwards' The rollers are held off the starter ring gear by their springs, when the gear is driven by the starter motor the rollers lock to the gear turning the engine. Once its running they disengage as the crank rotation inertia is greater and holds the rollers back off the gear and against their springs. They are simple devices and either work or don't! I've seen them beaten to hell and still work. And I fail to see what the problem is - the starter works, the starter clutch works and the crankshaft spins - so what is the problem?

My 'M' used to do that when first built - a piss poor battery would allow the crank to bang off the limited compression / firing stroke and rotate backwards that cracked off the nut. I found some 'locking grease' that had either diamond or carborundum dust in it, once tightened its never come loose again! I also upped the battery capacity somewhat - so what fixed it, I can't tell!

The 1st piccy, I thought........ I wonder who? The second confirmed it LOL! The shop does know boosted busa's

Maybe true ie. Stainless 410 grade is an option but is not widely available and its rarity probably increases its cost exponentially! Not even ProBolt are likely to use 'Hi Grade' stainless! For the aggro sourcing HT SS - just use a plated steel 8.8 or 10.9 HT bolt.

Apparently Ti is no better for tensile strength than A2 or A4 stainless! Most of these type of bolts fasteners will be 8.8 steel and a comparible SS which is A4 will be approx 12.5% weaker. I've never had an issue using A4 for the majority of these fixings - only the big long ones did I retain stock steel!

Oilite Bronze - commonly available.

The only thing that'll cause the rocker pads to wear excessively is oil starvation - if its bad up top then i'd be checking out all the other bearings particularly the head cam bearings!

One way of giving the starter clutch bolts an easier time with high CR is spin motor over with ign. switched off, once spinning, engage ign. It really does help, also gets a little oil around, pre running loads.

A clue to what bike model it is would help! As this is in 'Oil Cooled' and that is deffo NOT an oil cooled system its going to be guesswork!

In these situations, similar to removing the outer race from a headstock, you need a MIG welder and a decent amount of skill using it! Clean the inside face of the bearing and run a continuous bead around the inside middle of the track and leave to cool somewhat. The bearing race will near enough fall out with little force. As the weld cools, it shrinks and pulls the race in so loosening its hold. Using machines and mills etc. should be last resort!

But sometimes that 'standard shizzle' helps direct airflow to and over the std. radiator ! I have to agree with MB49 - that is a lot more load for a 750 to lug, around so reduced cooling may not be the best direction!

Dyna Mini's don't have much of a reputation for dying! Is the misfire repeatable when engine is cold, warm and hot? A CDI swap would be useful if you have one - I have one somewhere off a K/L 1127 engine, not been used for at least 20yrs. PM me if you want to try with some details . . . . have to find it first though LOL! PS. UK for location isn't a great deal of help when looking for help!

The GSX engines are pretty torquey even stock and a 20w/50 oil isn't the spec oil - should be 10w/40 mineral or semi. I'd suspect that could be upsetting the clutch grip. Some like heavier springs, but they are a moderately heavy clutch anyway, so i'd try oil first.

True - but the chances of pinging a circlip into the crankcases goes through the roof - risky? Very IMO!

Don't forget the 'trick' fuels available and used - can influence a lot of the engine build and tuning. Its maybe the aspect you won't be able to replicate whatever carb's are used?

Its Murica - fings don't work like that. Recover costs asap is all that is important!

The 5 degrees or so fitted angle will not make a huge difference in fuel levels - you've followed the book, thats good enough!