Gixer1460

Its not an old skool 'trick' - everyone that knows, knows they are 750 gears - they are the ONLY high volume gear set!

For reference i'll correct that statement. As most S/C installs are draw through ie. carb is upstream of the S/C the fuel pump doesn't need to be boost compensated so a psi or so base pressure is fine and a flow volume to match power output will be sufficient. An efi pump maybe overkill, a racing Facet type probably ok!

No ! Head design is completely different - Blandit has screw adjusted valves, 92 GSXR has shims.

Unlikely! More likely increasing load via higher gears needing more fuel that isn't being supplied by the pump due to the low volts issues? No one said turbo bikes are easy!

If you are handy with a soldering iron, a megasquirt or a Speeduino DIY kit is a cheap option for a EFI controller including ignition control. A few on here are using Megasquirt so there is a knowledge base - being careful with the pennies i'd guess a working system could be done for 300 - 350 £ or $ - certainly cheaper than a good set of used RS flatslides !

Blandits usually have a fairly good output from their alternators ie. capacity for running a fuel pump, and some. Batteries do go bad but if output voltage is anything other than 13.7 - 14.4 at 2k+ rpm, i'd say the R/R is goosed!

Joking aside - EFI for all its complexity is Soooooo much easier to work with on boosted engines - I wouldn't swap back ever!

Idle pressure can be whatever the carbs can tolerate without overflowing!. 1 - 2psi is reckoned to be about right to obviate vagaries of gravity / atmospheric pressure delivery. Takes a good gauge to read accurately at very low pressures.

Usually by inserting Tungsten plugs - easier to lose opposite weight though! Thought about the clutch balancing but maybe as it spins opposite to the crank it works like a damper? Never aware of one being balanced!

A boost gauge on the plenum is fine - that's where most are fed from! If the gauge doesn't read, its either not working or no making boost! Is the oil drain above the running oil level? Any crankcase compression from boost will find leaks and really a welded fitting is better than a tapped and siliconed wanky joint! Your electrics seem to need attention - a switch is either on or off, wire it properly LOL!

Unusual to have a 4-2-1 configuration on a Bandit and they don't fit the sump ! More likely GSXR? Maker? - not a scooby doo.

No cooling ports - solid billet block but the fin area compared to a std GSXR and even a Gorilla Big Block is substantially increased. more comparable to an aircooled engine. No tuned GSXR likes sitting still - this one is no different in that respect, but with airflow the repositioned and fanned stock cooler keeps pace.

Oh yeah - a virtual necessity if the ECU is controlling it!

370 rwhp and don't really know - its been parked since 2005 awaiting some revisions and upgrades LOL! - No rush to die is there!

Part of Turbo Install juggling act! I still use an internal gate on mine which has some hybrid TD04/05 but it was hung first then everything built around it to suit - might have a piccy . .. . . . . Sorry doesn't show much!

Nothing special compared to some!

I would assume the 1100 intakes are from a K or L model fitted with 36mm CV's. The M & N models had 40mm CV's. Short stroke 750's had the 38mm CV's. So you have choices - a) Dremel out the 36mm boots to take the 38mm carbs - messy and don't cock it up as they'll be fit for nowt. b) Find some 40mm boots but they'll take more tightening of the clamps than is healthy which can cause the carbs to fall out! And c) Find some 38mm boots but these result in different angle of the carb bank that tends to interfere with fuel taps etc. Sometimes if the 36mm boots are new / really soft they can be stretched enough to accept the 38mm inlets - usually a ratchet strap can be used to pull the carb rack into the boots - either way its a PITA!

As cylinders 1 & 4 go to one coil and 2 & 3 go to another, both plugs on one coil fire together - its called 'wasted spark' - one cylinder will be on power stroke the other will be on exhaust. Swapping the leads between paired cylinders is useful to see if a problem moves without a bunch of work. Any intake air leaks in the airbox side of the carbs is immaterial - only leaks on engine side affect running. The inlet rubbers / inlet rubber O rings could be hard / cracked - usually a good source for inlet air leaks, replace O rings or a smear of RTV can affect a temporary seal. Wrapped pipes will be a bit cooler but should still show a difference with an IR temp gun if there is a duff cylinder!

I don't like the idea of a screen on the fuel inlets - far too easy to cause a blockage IMO Never seen a screen on any carbs i've had apart - i'd rather see some crap in the bottom of the float bowl than blocking the fuel inlet - just my personal opinion though! A decent external fuel filter before the carbs is far more useful and user friendly!

Could this be something daft like a vac. hose disconnected on #3 for a fuel tap vac. connection missing or a vac. check port uncovered. It sounds like #3 is running right (or rather more normally, as one would expect if this is the 'reference carb') and the others are too rich, possibly why it all goes 'pete tong' as it warms up?

No one can be absolutely sure as you have a mixture of non stock parts but turbo's and high CR engines tend to pinch top ring lands due to excessive boost creating localised overheating or through detonation. Detonation in a Nitrous engine is a different animal - squashes the ring lands to death then melts everything, usually in less than a second! Running a hot engine is usually detrimental to the oil firstly, then power loss then if REALLY hot, seizure is a possibility but that would be so hot you wouldn't want to be sitting on the bike going slowly! 'Warmloper' - very descriptive the Dutch language LOL!

That certainly won't help! Detonation likely cause?

This is the most Bonkers thing in the whole list - I really want to see it succeed - 100+ hp in that ickle thing will be mad!

Extended oil changes causes all kinds of wear! If the recommended limit is 124psi, then yes its re-bore time and while your in there it'd be rude not to turbo it to help with the breathing LOL!

Apologies - my 0.004 / inch bore related to ring gap - DOH! The correct figure should have been 0.001" per inch bore, so revised calc is 0.0254 x 3 = 0.0762mm ! So, yes I guess your clearance is sufficient LOL!