Gixer1460

I can't recall anyone ever complaining the internal shaft splines in the gears ever got worn? Holes in a shaft are ultimately a weak point so if Robinson's don't include them its for a reason as race bike transmissions are a far more stressed environment. Generally most gearboxes survive on splash lube so the OEM holes may have been found to be superfluous?

IMO i'd go back to stock or near stock settings ie. MJ @ 125 or maybe 127.5 (for the K&N and pipe) as I guess the majority richness is from the mid range ie. needles where overall fuelling is fed via the mains. Killing plugs with over fuelling is a money pit - I'd rather know its lean without killing plugs at £10 / hole and work from there or put sensible head on. pony up and stick it on a decent dyno with a load brake! PS - 40's are a royal PITA to get carbing right - just so you know LOL!

I ordered up some MTC 1216 10:1 pistons with upgraded tool steel wrist pins, part #MTC-R1216T These are good pistons and rather than spacer the block to drop the CR, personally i'd machine the piston crowns (which I believe are flat on these) to add a slight dish. This does two things, first it preserves the squish band which is beneficial for anti detonation and secondly it puts a concentrated mixture right below the ignition source for the best burn. I've done the spacer thing (cos I had 12.5:1 pistons LOL) but it ruins the squish and not good for outright power IMO. Going to do my best to track down some sort of head spacer to drop the compression down to 8.5:1 to be a little safer and find someone to bore out my jugs (heh). See above Answers in RED again.

If they are in spec it's unlikely. Mostly you won't be reving that high anyway!

Why do that as it's easier to deck the top of the barrels - don't have to remove liners either!

'Usual' and 'normally' are subjective - the correct pressure is the one that keeps the bowls full and doesn't leak . . . . . its 'trial and error' tuning!

Answers in RED

Unless I'm reading the OP wrong - the EFE comes with the cams and 1200 kit fitted so no additional expenditure and 'comparable' power but much torquey ! I do love the Oil boilers but a Kat deserves the OSS anchor!

Be wary where the ARP bolts come from as it's not unknown for them to be copied.

You've answered your own question then as regards reliability and suitability! I've never heard of different BE 'sizes' other than alternative bearing fits due to grinding, journal sizing is just like any normal rod / main bearing ! They aren't Carillo's and will unlikely to be any worse than stock so what's to loose?

I figure your planning on well north of 600+ hp then LOL!

Not sure how long a valve would last in a potentially boosted environment? The smart money usually uses ignition timing for idle control - a quick raise in timing just before stall zone, ups engine speed to the normal control area.

I'm no specialist on exhaust smoke but if it was burning oil on the over run it should / usually is blue. A grey smoke I think is a lean condition but don't quote me - ideally you want no smoke whatsoever LOL!

They are relatively easy to disassemble - could be just a dirty commutator or brushes - 5 minutes with a toothbrush and alcohol may cure it!

Not sure about welding but have seen them done before. I milled a flat in the cover and bolted a plate to take the cam sensor with a pin added between lobes

True but depends on the ECU - I used one with slimmed down big tooth and MoTec and worked fine. The teeth are only points to count so the ECU knows when to trigger an event. I didn't understand any of the maxx stuff above as you can't have sequential without a cam trigger. It's just random without unless someone explains otherwise!

As said, it's cooling circuit side and no engine needs cooling from a cold start - 10 or 15 seconds ain't going to hurt anything!

More info required, like what boost, what intake temp desired, what ambient temp, pressure loss across the core, core efficiency? Generally try an fit as big as feasible / possible as it'll never be TOO efficient!

Not sure if the 2560S is a ballbearing type - which is what you want if you require minimal lag. I'm sort of struggling to understand the 'need' for an excess of turbo power when a good 750 will spin those 6" slicks the entire 1/4 without a turbo!

Only if yer 'merican and then you wouldn't understand the GSX bit either LOL! To us over here the whole family of 4V's 1100's are GSX 11's with the later ones known as EFE's or EF's. Less confusion as we had 2V GS1100's

Not offering advice but as far as I know, rim profile differs between tubed and non tubed in the area of the bead - so do it at your own risk! Probably makes no difference on a Guzzi LOL!

The Cult of Instant Gratification! He'll be sadly disappointed here LOL!

Agreed on the slotting (although I use slotted wheels on everything i've ripped into!) but using them to gain valve clearance is counter productive IMO. You slot the wheels to obtain correct valve timing - if that cannot be obtained due to interference, then cure the interference, don't skirt around the issue and compromise the valve timing.

He actually gets a 2.0 second delay ! Dial in racing can be close but you MUST, MUST, MUST, be killer on the tree and be able to run quicker than your dial-in. In your example if both hit a 0.400 light and hit dial in's you should cross together but if you pull 0.500 light against a 0.400 light you've possibly lost and you can only hope he breaks out. This is why you need to be able to go quicker short track to force opponent to pass you down track when you can back off forcing a break out! Be wary of scooters and low powered daily's as the handicap is massive and they'll be 50m from the stripe before you start - very hard to beat that!

What? You hit a van so hard you ended up inside it ! Dude, you need your eyes checked out LOL!