Gixer1460

No, No and No. Work - loads if not impractical!

Did they have the shim valve adjusted head like the GSXR's - only difference I can think of that they might have had for those years?

Keep up boyz, you're only a year behind the curve LOL! And seeing as the OP hasn't returned in nearly a year, he doesn't care either !

I've never run a silencer just dump pipes so can't comment on their use but like most exhaust systems, back pressure is the enemy! Don't believe anyone who says you need backpressure - only if you want to hamstring your engine you do! Although a turbo will take a lot of the energy out of the exhaust through the turbine, it still has heat with a degree of pressure based on flow and putting this into a pipe (even an open one) that is smaller dia. than the turbine outlet, will create a restriction. This is primarily why, particularly on cars, the post turbine pipes are 3 - 4" diameter with similar size through pipes in whatever silencer is fitted. The silencer needs to be an absorption type not a labyrinth or baffled type - they just cause backpressure! Its a law of diminishing returns on a bike - need big dia. pipes, no space to fit them, need big silencers, no space & they look fackin' ugly! So how much power do you sacrifice to benefit from quiet riding?

The fact it runs, although badly, would indicate the valves are working satisfactorily - if the engine HAS sat for 24 years then there is a strong possibility that the rings are stuck on the pistons allowing for the piss poor compression results. Sometimes soaking with diesel will free them off and running helps but I think with those results it is going to be a top end strip, clean and rebuild ! Oil in the cylinders may indeed improve the numbers - maybe up to spec. minimums! #4 deffo has problems if it won't even run!

You could test compression again with the carbs off, they don't need to be fitted! Even cold, i'd expect numbers above 160-170psi and upto about 195psi if warm. Absolute minimum would be around 110-115psi and variation between cylinders - no more than 10-15%.

As these engines don't generate massive oil pressure, the fact that it cracked open at all would indicate the threads in the case are fubar'd! The bolts you are using are likely just catching the remaining threads at the bottom of the holes - this isn't a sustainable situation. It would be better to remove the exhaust and install some helicoils or Timeserts and add some stainless studs back in with ideally the correct domed nuts as Swiss Toni has noted above - they do get frequent use changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles / yearly.

I wouldn't use a OEM GSXR cooler on an EFE - they are designed and sized for an oil cooled engine! Using one on an air cooler engine would probably ensure the oil NEVER reached operating temperature! Compare a pic of a GSXR cooler to Rick's above for comparison. A stock EFE oil cooler is even smaller ! ! !

You are confusing me! You HAVE JE pistons but AREN'T using JE rings? Are these JE pistons custom 'one off's' and did you supply ring dimensions? If you didn't, then I don't see how JE are supposed to know what size to machine so have machined usual for them? Why are you not using JE rings? - Total Seal rings work ok.

I thought they relied on the CAN bus for info input - normally from the ECU. Maybe the 600 had that functionality?

Might be tricky running a Motec dash without a Motec ECU to drive it ? Lose the tractor carb, fit a big throttle body, add some big injectors into the plenum then fit a Motec ECU - welcome to the 21st century LOL!

What's wrong with the ones you've already got? Boosted engines work well enough with stock cams until you start really upping the boost - probably any cam will work ok if sub 1 bar boost. There isn't a huge difference between F cams / GSXR cams and GSF cams in terms of lift & duration.

I'm not giving tuning advice, but i'd give it a go! It's not rocket science to swap them out if you don't like! The 34's may give a better 'pull'

A bigger engine will work nicer with 'bigger' cams - all can be calmed down with sub optimal head / carbs. You can have the biggest cams in the world but without the airflow they won't perform anywhere near as good as stockers!

Possibly early GSX11 - ET etc. maybe a regrind? 1075 and 1135 cams are interchangable.

I think you've misplaced the decimal point placement! - at 3.6mm ring gap you'd have no compression to speak of! Rule of thumb - 0.004 - 0.005" per 1" of bore dia . . . . . so for 78mm, call it 75mm or 3" = 0.004 x 3 or 0.005 x 3 = 0.012 / 0.015" respectively which equates to - 25.4mm / 1000 = 0.0254" x 12 or 0.0254 x 15 = 0.3048mm / 0.381mm The above is usual for Normal Aspiration - Forced Induction can afford to go a little looser but you will get more blow by so 'swings and roundabouts' !

Not sure what you are trying to say in the lower bit? If you block the compressor discharge, you effectively stall the compressor and by connection the turbine which produces large backpressure hence why engine stalls. 'Blowing into the plenum' - how? Via the charge pipe or the WG pressure line? There is no physical air pathway between the hot side and the cold side unless it circumvented multiple seals and bearings through the core! In lower gears, engine acceleration can be fast enough that next gear is required before desired boost is reached - this is the balancing act between turbo sizing / boost required / turbo response / power output required / V max required. There is never one solution that satisfies everything!

You've always been able to do that, it's just the site had a size limitation that meant 'hosted' pictures could be larger. Now the site is self hosted the limitation is no more but big files still eat into storage and bandwidth so if adding pics - don't take the piss with 10+Mb images LOL!

Could have a short chain is an option I guess! I've made longer chains before so shortened isn't a big deal.

That's an interesting point - a M8 rebuilt his Bindit ( he sold you the Harris F1 ) with a GSXR crank so obvs needed a std roller chain but i'm fairly sure he didn't change the cam cover or add extra's into the head! I'm interested now to find out what's under the cover in that engine LOL!

I may be old and stupid ( some say definitely) but looking at that picture - and assuming the circuit on the left is the pilot / low running circuit) how and where is that connected to / influenced by, the Main Jet apart from they share the same float bowl? You can remove or can block a MJ on most carbs and the engine will still idle - how, if interconnected?

Any fueling that is on the needle or WOT will be determined by the MJ.

Not arguing but that sounds long to me! It literally just has to unload the gears to allow the shift - I know its not the same but airshifters work with about a 45-60ms kill time and I didn't have much more with a foot activated QS! A long kill won't hurt anything, just makes for a jerky shift when it should be 'seamless'.

Its almost forcing dual front disc's on riders by stealth! For info, a 2008 on Busa has a 260mm disc that may fit even if holes require re-drilling?

Its a GSX1100 so why not start with a richened up 1100 jetting to start - 4.5 out on mixture screw is waaay to far. ^^^ above doesn't sound a mile off?