Gixer1460

Nice ambition but a 9 second ET won't be 'budget' - chassis work, lose weight and use of Nitrous will help!

This all you get! The hyvo chain doesn't flap around as much as a normal roller chain so doesn't need extra restraint or to wrap the cam wheels as much.

Although I don't have one myself (which I may do with the next iteration) and use a mechanical pump, any drain back / drain down in feed lines will bypass the bearings and leak into the housings leading to a degree of start-up smoke. A little sump / catch can allows this to drain away and be pumped away on start-up so IMO a worthwhile addition.

I would imagine 'Historic / Classic' status in the UK for road tax and MOT requirements!

And good luck trying to convince the DVLA that they got it wrong all those years ago! They'll more than likely delete the V5, say they have no records and that you don't actually own it LOL!

Ever tried RTFM? as you appear to be struggling with words and there are pictures in there! LOL!

They all have a pretty much + / - life with leaded ! Best do the set up as good as you can then remove. I guess unleaded does have its advantages LOL!

But is it any quieter?

That lambda seems remarkably cheap $125 with a sensor and seems quite similar to an Innovate LC-1 / 2? Stainless bungs are used as less likely to rust into the sensor but can be welded into MS pipe - just need the right filler wire.

125 not likely to be a million miles out and it'll give you a baseline. The 34's will give good depression over the jet so requiring a size or two smaller than if using 36 / 38's for example. I started with 125's in 36's fitted to a 1360 EFE engine!

Ambition and abiity! Know your's and the machinery's limits and stick to them - there's plenty who didn't in graveyards!

Drill it or slide hammer it, otherwise pretty impossible to remove! Shame they didn't give so much thought to overall bike security LOL!

Not necessarily ! It depends on the quality of the Li battery and the 'usually built-in' charging / conditioning circuitry. I don't know of any way of telling how good or how poor that will be - maybe when it explodes or catches fire you'll be able to tell 'whats what' LOL!

Probably because - as I said - he hasn't got the guys to do it!

Not sure how the Electrex are wired but there is nothing wrong with the GS / GSX charging system 'per se' - its the daft wiring that uses a leg of the alternator output direct to the headlights - fine when you want lights on but when switched off that output is just disipated to ground with heat being the result hence the RR's failing! If you re-wire the light switch to power via fuses to battery and tie all the alternator outputs together and direct them to the battery directly, a lot of the problems should go away. Yes the outputs are never great but at least ALL the stuff generated is going to the battery and not 1/3 disappearing in heat!

Wouldn't it be possible to cut the Proboost manifold connection off and add the correct one to suit the turbine outlet of the TF035 (not a number i'm familiar with?) All depends on the manifold material as to which process is most suitable and of course skill level! MIG is a 'ghetto' solution, TIG is more elegant with a better appearance but both will do the job! I know Sean at BigCC had most of his fabrication guys either let go or furloughed and is barely keeping the business going - I'm sure he'd welcome the work if he had staff / people to do it!

Longer or shorter dog bones - I can never remember which - think its longer! Oh and a significant raise will fuck up the 750's handling!

Its a 'roll pin' so use a suitably sized pin punch or at a push, a nail with the point removed and end flattened.

Now get it to factor in drag and it'd be really useful.

LOL! That would warrant a tug by plod over here and likely a ticket for defective headlight and causing distraction / dazzle! Good luck in the land of instant roadside fines!

Probably an optical illusion but that wheel does not appear central in the s/arm or frame!

As he ^^^ says - its the quickest way! But the spec you describe would usually require DJ stage 3 kit - pipe and pods! And 155 mains are mahoosive for (what I assume) is a Bindit? Going large on the mains tends to indicate poor airflow not producing sufficient depression over the jet to pull fuel through. But dyno is best way to avoid guessing! EDIT - wraith got inbetween just before me LOL

The paper ones can go hard and they do bulge into the oil transfer passage but they very rarely actually fail and block oil flow. There are aluminium, copper or steel 'gaskets' that can stop the effect but they natively don't seal as well as paper without some gunk. More chance of breaking your rings just to replace a gasket that isn't leaking!

Some interesting parts used for that particular spec. and intended output! And BTW most bike g/boxes are straight cut - maybe you confused 'under cut' on the dogs?

Possibly optimistic! I had a 1186 kit, 12.5:1 CR, DJ36 cv's and a V&H 4-2-1 Supersport system, made 144 RWHP on 3 different dynos and fitted in a Z1000J, no fairing and flat bars and ran to about 155 mph (about as fast as I could hang on!) That used 15 / 45 gearing FYI.