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  1. Thanks for the words everyone, especially Gixer1460! I ordered up some MTC 1216 10:1 pistons with upgraded tool steel wrist pins, part #MTC-R1216T Going to do my best to track down some sort of head spacer to drop the compression down to 8.5:1 to be a little safer and find someone to bore out my jugs (heh).
  2. Phenomenal information as always Gixer1460, thanks for taking the time! Clears a lot of things up
  3. Is it possible to bore the cylinders out that much on a stock B12 block? I remember reading something about a "big block", but from what I can gather the Blandit 1200 engine is the big block. Going bigger would definitely help reach the goal. Also, unrelated to that, the B12 block is a 59mm crank, correct?
  4. My only worry with that is whether or not the turbo pistons/high comp pistons are different in terms of design - how it spreads the load, how it handles boost (regardless of compression ratio). As I said, I know almost nothing about piston design so I'm hoping someone who's gone down the fully built engine road can chime in. Holeshot makes an 11:1 piston kit for the 1157, but that's about it as far as I can tell. It's so little work to fit Hayabusa pistons (bore the cylinder jugs 2mm over) that no one really makes bespoke Bandit pistons. I'm just struggling to find information on how to make the compression difference work.
  5. Started ordering parts for my 1157 engine build, shooting for 400+ to the wheel. Have a set of h-beam conrods on order right now, trying to work out which Hayabusa pistons to go with but I'm confused on compression numbers. From what I understand, stock Hayabusa pistons in an 1157/stock crank/stock rod length will net around 8.5:1 compression, which is perfect for boost, but I'm looking to go beyond the capabilities of stock Hayabusa pistons. All forged pistons for the Hayabusa seem to be either high compression (13:1ish) or low compression (8.5:1ish), neither of which would land at an ideal compression for a turbo 1216. Never built an engine before, I don't understand much about metallurgy or piston design so forgive the amateurish questions: Am I even on the right track thinking that 8.5:1 Hayabusa pistons in an 1157 would net an insanely low compression ratio, due to the drop in compression ratio with stock Hayabusa 11:1 pistons? IE Stock 11:1 Hayabusa pistons in an 1157 nets ~8.5:1, therefor 8.5:1 Hayabusa pistons in an 1157 would net ~6.5:1? Or am I oversimplifying it? Between the JE, Wiseco, and Carrillo pistons, which are generally regarded as having the highest power capabilities? Alternatively, which are the best value for the money? What part of the 1157 could be shaved off to raise compression, assuming I get the 8.5:1 Hayabusa pistons? Alternatively, as I understand there's some head that bolts on to the 1157 that raises compression ratio about 1.5 points due to a smaller chamber, is this correct? I understand I'll have to mathematically work out what specifically will need to happen with my engine to get my specific build where I want it in terms of compression, I just want to make sure that I'm on the right track before ordering pistons, lest I end up with something completely unusable. Thanks
  6. I ordered them straight from their website, maxpeedingrods.com There was also a couple sets available on Eblag (USA) a couple days ago, but they were about $30 more than what I paid on their website. If you order from the website the coupon code "SUB13" saved me $20.
  7. Thanks for the advice guys! I think say what now!? hit the nail on the head, I was confused because of the different bearing size offerings from Suzuki. Clive, I went with APR2000 bolts. I know those were popular in the Miata community, are they acceptable at higher RPM and load? I ended up ordering the Maxpeedingrods after reading a couple good reviews and seeing people make some big power with them.
  8. Hi all, getting tired of ~220ish whp on a stock engine and would like to build my engine for 400+. Not to be useable, but because I want to. As far as I understand, I'll be well past the limits of the stock rods so upgrades are in order. What I'm primarily wondering about are the differences between all the 1157 engines that came in Bandits - the brand I'm looking at is Maxspeedingrods, because they're cheap, but they list them as being for '96-'98 Bandit 1200s and '93-'98 GSX-R1100s. I know someone I trust who is running them on a 2000 model year, but I just want to confirm that, at least in theory, they'll work. Here's the specs straight from the manufacturer: "Dimensions: Center to center length: 117mm; Big end diameter: 41mm; Small end diameter: 20.02mm ( tapered small end); Big end width: 21mm; Small end width: 21mm" I am worried about the big end diameter - from what I've found online, there are 3 different sizes that came in 1157 engines, but I can't find what those sizes are. Can anyone confirm and tell me which diameters came in which engines/years?/ I would like to avoid Hayabusa rods as that's a much more expensive (albeit proven) route. I have fixed, turbo'd, and fuel injected this bike for less than $2,500usd including the cost of the bike - it's an experiment in cheapness, I'm not looking to debate the efficacy of cheap parts or the risks associated with them. Thanks
  9. Sourced some Fuel Injector Clinic 625cc injectors for an SRT-4 that slipped right in with some different o-rings and a small spacer in the fuel rail mount. Easy sub 1 hour installation, even with swapping the injector pigtails out. I also took the opportunity to lower the base fuel pressure from 3.5bar to 3bar, since I now have more than enough injector to run up to the limits of the stock engine. Bike idles beautifully on all 4 cylinders, albeit very rich, even with the change in injector size accounted for in the fuel constant. Hopefully I'm just down to tuning at this point.
  10. Ok, took it for a quick ride, going to compile some information here: Charging system was bad, has been fixed When the Microsquirt is set on semi-sequential mode, only cylinders 2 and 4 fire. Doesn't matter if it's 1 squirt/simultaneous or 2/alternating, only cylinders 2 and 4 fire. After running on semi-sequential mode and turning the bike off for a couple seconds, it will actually run on all 4 with the fuel pump turned off, presumably from all the fuel vapor hanging around in the intake. The bike fires on all cylinders when set to untimed batch injection, but it starts on two cylinders, runs on 4 after a couple seconds of idling, then goes back to running on 2 when the RPMs go up or load is placed on the bike. Presumably running 2 and 4 normally, and 1 and 3 running off fumes in the intake from ill-timed injection. All 4 spark plugs are firing, 1 and 4 together, and 2 and 3 together I speculate that something is off with the fuel injection timing/my wiring. I currently have cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 wired together for both fuel and spark, which I now speculate to be causing the fuel injection timing to be off by 180* on two of the cylinders. Should I have cylinders 1-3 and 2-4 wired together for the fuel injectors, and 1-4 and 2-3 for the spark? Do I have something backwards? Edit: From what I've found online it really doesn't matter if injection timing is 180* off, so that idea is out the window. I'm going to swap the fuel injectors around and see if the running cylinders follow them. Edit2: Running cylinders followed the injectors! Guessing I didn't clean the fuel rail well enough after I extended it and it clogged 2 of the injectors. Going to order a set tonight with express shipping, can't wait to get them in and get a good run out of this thing.
  11. I think the way I'm wired is messing with the MS voltage readings; log readings are consistently lower than a multimeter on the battery. I'm feeding the MS and pump out of the same fusebox, I'm going to take the fuel pump off and put it on it's own separate circuit and see what happens. Reason I bring this up is because my voltage readings with a multimeter are fine, but voltage while actually running and functioning I report from the datalogs. Regardless, battery is charging up right now, I'll report back with what I find when it's fully charged and running. Independent of this and on to tune stuff: With 1 squirt per cycle and semi-sequential fueling, I'm only running on cylinders 2 and 4. Odd, as the bike fires 1-4 and 2-3 (unless I'm mistaken). I have cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 wired together for both fuel and spark, at least in theory. Wondering if I mixed up two of the spark plug leads when I did the LS coil conversion or fucked up some of the fuel injector wiring. Regardless, I feel like I'm making progress for the first time since I posted this thread. Edit: Am I an idiot? Should I have 1-3 and 2-4 wired together for the injectors? I think I'm 180 out on the fuel injection timing on the cylinders that aren't firing.
  12. Good news today folks: Fixed the second alternator! Popped the back open and one of the solder joints was loose. Re-soldered it and I'm putting out 13.5v at around 3,000RPM. Clamp ammeter showed that the alternator is putting out 11 amps at idle, and 25amps at just off idle. Power consumption is around 13 amps at idle, 14 at just off-idle. All is now well in my charging system, and I'll have a spare alternator lying around when the new one arrives. However, the thing still can't get out of its own way, but at least it's not dropping cylinders anymore. My focus is now moving to the tune. Per an example of an oil-cooled MS tune I got from Arttu, changed from 2 squirts/cycle untimed to 1 squirt/cycle semi-sequential. It runs, but I had to increase the idle screw and change my idle VE from 22 to 60 to get a reasonable AFR. Gonna keep playing with the tune and report back. Thanks for all the charging system advice everyone, one piece of the puzzle is now solved.
  13. Based on the wiring diagrams I've looked at, Gixer1460 is correct. I've checked the wiring a couple times over, there's zero resistance between the alternator leads and the battery, and visibly it all looks fine. I've got a clamp type ammeter arriving later today thanks to Arttu's advice, going to check out my exact draws and alternator outputs when running, see if I've got a short causing massive draw on the system when running or something of the sort.
  14. Updates: Tossed a lithium battery in. Made zero difference. Datalog showed 12.3v with all accessories on but bike off, 12.5-12.6v running, 13v @ 4,500rpm, 12.4v running at the end of the run. I measured 13.2v at the battery with all accessories and the bike fully off at the end of the run. Ordered a third alternator last night. Tested the alternator hooked directly up to the battery, no change. Checked all alternator wiring, it's fine. Can anyone tell me what I should expect it to read with EFI accessories at idle, off idle, and 5,000rpm? Workshop manual says 13.5v, but I don't know if I should realistically expect that with all the EFI stuff on it as well.
  15. The alternator is run through stock wiring. I tested the resistance of the alternator connector to battery and it was negligible. I agree that it doesn't seem to be delivering charging voltage. I know it's doing something because voltage goes up when I rev it, but not nearly as much as I've been lead to believe it should. I'm seeing 13v max at high RPM, and that's with a freshly charged battery. Anything less than a fully charged battery and it'll only go 0.2-0.3v above the voltage with accessories on. I'll try wiring the alternator directly to the battery and see what happens. Maybe there's a power leech somewhere in the circuit that doesn't affect resistance.
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