Gixer1460

Whether they did anything is debatable outside of Suzuki R&D but the theory goes like this - on a bike with a fairing the area inside it and around the carbs is a low pressure zone which messes with carb function (how much is anyone's guess!) The nose on a fairing exhibits high pressure and possibly 'venting' some of that high pressure 'ram air' into the inter fairing low pressure zone reduces its effect! On the flip side many, many bikes with and without fairings use carbs successfully so maybe its all hype and marketing bollux!

Could be gummed up rings or it could be glazed bores from never been ridden hard enough! I bought a 7,000 mile old bike that was 20 years old and it always smoked for a good 5 - 10 minutes on start up - never got any better in 25k miles - eventually got so fed up with it, I replaced all the rings and completed an Italian tune up - never smoked ever again!

More likely rings based on those symptoms - and if they've gone its time for valve seals as well cos they won't be much better!

It shouldn't spark with engine not turning UNLESS the trigger wheel has stopped exactly over the pick-up but even then it should only spark once at 'key on'. The system requires the trigger wheel to pass the inductive pick-up to induce a voltage to trigger the ign. electronics. Faulty sealed electronics are a PITA to trouble shoot!

If a dyno doesn't have decent cooling fans - i'd find a better dyno! Insufficient cooling is never good whether its NA or turbo !

Personally I'd try to not go richer than about 11:1 and with decent EFI control maybe 12:1, but with carbs AFR is a crap shoot! IMO as long as everything else is ok ie. Ignition retard on boost, boost control, cooling a 14:1 AFR on boost isn't bad just not optimal but if one of those things gets out of whack then that's why richer mixtures are recommended but tooo far is also not good - excess fuel through the turbine can burn up blades! Eblag jetting - stage 5 means nothing! Garage and seat of the pants tuning can only take you so far - put the bike on a dyno and get it set right without guesswork!

Can we talk about what oil now then? LOL!

Only cos most of new bike riders are gurls and never done manual labour. Hard work generates strength. . . . . strength beats GSX clutch everytime LOL! Next the factories will come up with power brakes and power steering for the delicate darlings ! ! !

Even a good used set of OEM fibres and steels are better than new EBC one's - seriously! And probably about the same price! As said measure first as OEM fibres will take a beating before being un-servicable - we never threw a fibre away unless it was burnt up, cracked or missing pieces!

Not sure on this but 'virgin replacement cases' come unstamped, so that old scrap case number may be re-used. Possible that a race team had used 'new' cases and just stamped an identifying number for their purposes? What does the V5 say for engine number?

Don't have experience myself but have seen a 'ghetto' install that was done by a 'well known' tuner for a shootout that didn't have a BOV and he managed to blow the carb tops clear off - whether through over boost or over-run boost spike I don't know, either way it went with a bang. IMO, the thing is, when closing the throttle @ 12psi boost, the already generated air flow which has velocity will hit the closed butterflies and can bend them, but because the air speed drops due to the restriction its pressure spikes upwards and is reflected back to the compressor blades possibly bending them. They may not break immediately but cycles of doing it over and over will fatigue them and they could break at WOT and then get ingested into the engine! So its not just the cheap Chinky turbo you risk but the engine as well! Personally i'd keep the BOV and fix the connection problem !

So a clutch that only works 'efficiently' when on the throttle? So, loads of throttle to pull away and tootling around town & the clutch would be slipping like a bastard? You are trying to fix a problem that isn't really there IMO!

90's are always an option - if you have them of course? LOL!

And would seem the sensible way bearing in mind the limited space and the daft price of 180 deg. fittings LOL!

Don't worry - it makes two tenths of fuck all difference! They are used plates anyway so will be oil soaked regardless!

As long as the area of the 'cross drilled' holes is greater than the bore up the center it won't make any difference how many holes are in it!

Is there an echo in here? LOL!

Won't that just move the problem to another area of operation ie. won't be able to change gear in high gears or at high rpm's?

LED's will only flow voltage in one direction - the indicators are powered / earthed one way for left, and reversed the other way for right hence why will work one way and not the other. This is assuming its only one dash warning light? If there are two then just correct orientation of the LED's should work!

Query - Why? Are those few thou for a steel / paper gasket so precious to gain against the leak potential?

Will still leak around the cam chain tunnel - return oil!

Apparently gasket makers like Cometic have quite specific surface finish requirements for their gaskets in terms of flatness and surface roughness as the gasket coating seals less the rougher the surface is, ideal is 40 - 45Ra, whatever that is LOL!

LOL ! Now you know - just wait till you get a broken strand thats inside the outer - that'll drive you nuts again! Now go ride the damn thing!

Simple answer - yes! GSXR had a deep Vee sump and a 4-2 exhaust manifold / collector that followed the vee, the GSX-F had a 'flat' sump with a dish bowl and also a 4-2 exhaust but the collectors were incorporated on to the mufflers, not integrated with the manifold, and was a flatter shape.

The OP is in the States and they got different model years to us in UK / Europe!