Gixer1460

And a fuel filter is NEVER unnecessary when fitted to an 'older' bike !

How are your engineering / fabrication / bodging skills? Measure the thread on the float bowl drain screws, then make / turn up a nipple with that thread and bored through, attach clear tube to each and cabe tie to something to keep vertical with open end higher than the top of float bowl - et voila - level guages! Don't forget to turn the fuel supply off when removing them ! ! !

Don't cut nothing - use as supplied! Different maker, different design, same end result!

Cam wheels have to match the crank as cam wheels have to be twice the number of teeth compared to the crank. As regard timing, i'd follow the 550 method to match the wheels and pins between. The issue that may occur is how the wheels bolt to the cams in relation to the lobes - align the lobes looking at the end of the cam of both and ensure the angle of the bolt holes is identical - your 1st picture shows the lobes are closely matched but the mounting bolt angles 'seem' slightly different ! ! If the above is true, then the stock timing marks won't work for you and you'll have to use the 650 timing data / angle specs and use a timing wheel, dial guage and ideally some slotted sprockets !

29's on a 1052 / 1127 / 1157 will be a bit too small when compared to std which were 36 or 40mm cv's. 29s were fitted to the GS 2v engines but they are rev limited when compared - if bored to 33mm they could make a torquey rev limited road bike!

Possibly just an elaborate spring seat solution to increase spring pressure marginally ?

Its not a case of 'over charging when revved' - its barely charging at all! At idle it should be 13+v and above 3000rpm around 14.2 - 14.6v! If the RR checks out ok then the genny is suspect - as said AC output looks low.

Don't see how - taking heat from one side and transferring it to opposite side equally hot valves ! ! ! And steel is a crap heat transfer material when compared to aluminium.

Forget the lights, your reg / rectifier is goosed and needs replacing. The AC voltage from the Genny looks low - don't know what the spec should be - needs checking!

Maybe if you had, you wouldn't have asked that question!

Or use a Dremel tool with carborundum disc - after measurement obviously! I think i've only ever seen a ring grinder once in real life, in 40 years of playing with bikes!

Interesting video and informative - 4no. Vac ports with black caps. But no obvious float bowl vents - maybe vented via carb bore? Nice to see plastic floats as option?

Vac hose connections on 3 out of 4 carbs would be unusual? Fuel tap vac usually off an inlet rubber, carb balancing vac ports on all carb bodies are normally blanked / capped off. Plastic floats good idea but straight swap ? ? ?

negativity So, I get mis / selectively quoted with regard to the cable used - as being negative! Then you basically agree with the 'quality & longevity' issues by pointing out all the faults, removing it and pondering a 'remade version'. A sorry would be nice, an apology even better This issue has been around for as long as this mechanism has existed and many alternatives have been tried - generally unsuccessfully! I wouldn't say its a flawed system as it functions as designed but it could have been better but just using different length levers may give a softer pull but reduced cable travel and so drag is the result! Its a big clutch with few plates that need heavy springs - compare to modern sport bike with small clutches, many plates and finger light springs and lever feel - it is, what it is - unfortunately!

Or if you aren't precious about originality - make one, braided hose + two correct end fittings (usually banjo's) + 1/2 hr of your time = job done and maybe £15-20 tops.

That is a puzzle ! I've run different MJ's between 1/4 and 2/3 for reason mentioned above but only 4 points on the DJ jetting. Plug colour is difficult to monitor these days - porcelain colour is unrelable with unleaded fuels IMO - I go by the outer thread face . . . . . and it appears your 'weaker' jetted ones are richest ! ! ! Possibly someone has been in there and drilled out the jets so you can't depend on the numbers . . . . It may have been dyno'd with that as its corrected set-up, if its running good, I wouldn't touch it!

Bearing in mind your lack of mechanical skills - look at overall condition, look for grease and oil around screws, bolts and nuts that you would 'expect' to be moved / removed regularly ie, wheel axle nuts and bolts, footrest pivots, stand pivots, control levers. Are there any oil leaks ( I assume the two drips in last pic aren't from this bike?) Service history ? Does the oil filter (at front of engine low down) look new / newish, is it a Suzuki part? Check chain for wear - can you pull it off the rear sprocket, backwards, anymore than a little indicates wear, are sprocket teeth hooked / very sharp points - indicates getting towards replacement. Take someone with you who knows bikes and can assist to balance bike on centrestand - spin the wheels to see if brakes are binding / dragging, are wheel bearings free / not grinding / noisy. Are tyres good / not cracked? Does engine start easily (cold would be good) on / off choke, does it run 'easily' and rev freely, does it smoke - black or blue smoke - walk away or bargain down the price as you don't want to be tearing into an engine! Test ride - does it feel ok, does suspension work, does it ride in a straight line without too much assistance, do brakes work! ! !. Check any paperwork and DOT tests are current and up to date. Lift the seat - some 'grease' around the battery terminals would be a good sign that some care / maintenance has been given! You'll be excited to buy it, but look at it through a pessamists eyes, look for faults and point them out - makes negotiating the sale price easier - if your assistant knows bikes ask their opinion but don't necessarily rely on it!

I love how they are aimed at primarily 'dirt bikes' . . . . . . . who probably have the lightest clutch actions i've ever experienced - as stock! Looking at the cable dia used, I'm not going to bet on longevity when tugging on a GSX clutch!

Just place it in the outlet pipe, 4 - 6" down from turbo! You may get a degree of oxygen dilution from the open end of the pipe being so close at idle but idle tuning doesn't make the engine unsafe - as gas speed increases with rpm the dilution effect goes away and accuracy can be relied on.

You are only increasing capacity by about 15% and yes the faster gas speed over the venturi jet will give greater depression to draw more fuel. This only works so far unless you increase the jet orifice to allow much greater flow. Bear in mind Suzuki fitted 34mm, 36mm & 40mm carbs to the 1100/1200 engines so a carb bore will work with lots of capacities . . . . . hell, one of the 750's got 38mm carbs! Smaller carbs will produce excellent rideability due to increase in torque low down but trim the top end due to airflow restriction.

Why? Tuning in cold dense air gives optimum settings IMO, as when air warms it will be less dense so will run richer but fuel will also be less dense so virtually self correcting to a degree?

You can't compare std jets to DJ - different written sizes. Stop over thinking the problem, just swap them over, monitor the result and act on that rather than speculate with internet tuning!

Finding peeps who have done the swap is likely a REALLY small number - we tend to play LARGE LOL! It is very likely the carbs will work fine and will run sufficiently well to allow 'break-in' running - changing the pilots isn't the end of the world, neither is mains after a bit of loaded running!

Ingenious !, never heard about that one !, but practicality . . . . . hmmm LOL!

If you use a good torch so you can keep the indirect heat away from the rotor and in particular the magnets / glue, a pretty much good amount of heat can be used - but heat it hot and heat it quick then stop - continual heat soaking will eventually get to the magnet glue, then its toast. I've known flywheels to take 24+hrs under extreme puller torque - patience is required!