Gixer1460

'If you can't bare the heat, don't stand in the fire' What you are proposing won't really address the basic problem - lack of airflow! A bigger cooler will add capacity but won't cool any / much better if standing still or with poor airflow and once you do get to decent speed it 'may' over cool the oil! Top end cooler - same airflow problem although cool oil to the head is never a bad thing. You may not be able to fit a fan AND a big rad to the front of the engine but what about fitting a secondary rad and fan behind the engine / under the seat with the fan on a thermostatic switch & relay? You get increased oil capacity, only adds cooling when required and will not look like an oil-cooled bike! I don't have a front rad on my turbo GSXR just a std rad under the seat with an R6 fan and thermo switch in the sump - it does work!

I'd talk to a Garrett, IHI or Mitsubishi turbo distributor and ask their advice as they should be able to calc the right core, housings and wheels to suit, otherwise its guesswork. But you are probably looking at something like a GT15 (that is just the family - many variants of that basic unit). Anticipate max. 120hp @ 7psi and peak power at 8,500 - 9,000rpm. You can keep the points although the whole system may be lacking under boost pressure. Slotting the backplate to allow movable timing is easiest way - better way is swapping out to a more 'modern' electronic system . . . . a Dyna 'S' may suit. The Wiseco pistons are good IF you can stay away from adding a 'bit more' boost, as at 10+ :1 CR, much more will induce detonation especially with std pump gas!

I don't do 'roundy, roundy' stuff and I know everyone has different abilities but the first minute of that was embarrassing - getting passed inside, outside - everyside. They are the sort of riders as described by @bluedog59 above, I think?

Who mentioned 'G' marked cams? If it was the reference 'G4' above - that is a grind profile from (I think) Web or Cammotion in the USA.

No it's not!

What if it does? It'll be atmospheric side of the butterflies so effectively, in free air. Only done by OEM's for emissions purposes.

Air has to move in and out of the crankcase unless you are using a dry sump system and then you vent the holding tank - no one way valves!

Sounds familiar . . . . . .

Absolutely - they are the best for ANY engine!

More usually, instructions are included in the box! So why do you need to know beforehand?

Shock and Clutch - lots of time, effort and usually money to make these work together, when they don't it's a wasted pass! Bike looks stout so should go well when sorted.

Sean @ BigCC tried bigger exh valves years ago with the Kat engine and for whatever reason it gave no improvement, in fact it was worse in places, so wasn't pursued ever again. Hope it works for you.

A M8 who is the wrong side of 60 and doesn't get to ride much, built a '96 Blandit, 1216 kit, GSXR lightened crank and clutch, reworked head, std valves & cams, RS36's and a Ackro Carbon system and it makes 152whp. He rode it last week after messing with the throttle return and apparently it was back to what it used to be, lifting the front on demand and quick enough that is starting to show deficiencies in the Hyperpro front and the Ohlins equipped aftermarket back end. He was 'cheshire cat' type grinning as he told me about it LOL! A Blandit is never going to be a GSXR or a Blade but they can be equally entertaining from his experience I think?

Regarding 'airbox' or more correctly Plenum, flow or ease of flow and correct distribution of air to all inlets is important in that it is free power, ensuring correct air to each cylinder equalises power meaning no one cylinder has to be richer / leaner to run right. But as said air pressure stacks up against any joint and the pressurising / un-pressurising will fatigue joins over time if excessive pressure is used. Being conservative with boost helps or over engineering the piece if over boosting often will be a requirement. Most any arrangement will be ok at 1bar and if pushed 2bar but above that any 'simple' construction - all bets are off LOL! There are plenty examples of alternative plenum designs used successfully AND some that weren't - pick what will work for you and copy it, and you won't be far wrong, I copied my first one from a Hahn Racecraft design, I drew it up and had it fab'd up - its still going strong as far as I know, some 30 yrs later!

Deffo agree with this - minimise 'box section' joints as much as possible, ie rounded tank ends, using round tube rather than fab'd up boxes. Even good welding can be blown apart under boost pressure but good welding will definitely survive longer than piss poor efforts LOL! And cure for distortion of the flanges either secure to head or a fixture before / during welding or make them thicker, allow for distortion and mill flat & true after! Or just use turned spigots that fit into std. rubber inlet manifolds, then minor distortion is not a big issue.

Not easily though! And their Litre class bike engines have often made 500+whp ! That says a lot to me!

I must be missing something here as my 1st turbo build - a suck through Garrett T2 and S&S carb made 205whp @ 10psi boost. No intercooling obviously but I doubt not a lot more boost would have made 250 but it was Max'd out at 10 lbs. Yours is more sophisticated so I would have expected better numbers?

Ooooh that'll be a bit controversial - raising comp plus high inlet temps = recipe for detonation!

With respect, those aren't big numbers compared to a performance NA cam set - 256 deg is little more than std and they've spread the LCA - always advisable with boost to reduce overlap. As a comparison my Krol cam specs are 248 deg in / 245 deg ex, 9.3mm lift, with 111 deg in / 109 deg ex. I guess if (like you) you are intending to make huge boost, higher lift numbers are required, which by necessity / geometry, will increase duration. The cams i've quoted were designed for my engine spec - by people a damn sight brighter than me - so I trust they could deliver the ultimate target (which unfortunately is less than you've achieved LOL!) But generally the advice stands - shorter duration with less overlap and highest lift possible, will suit a boosted package that max's out at a lower rpm.

If heat is a problem at such a low boost number, I don't think water injection will make a significant difference - it's a fundamental turbo efficiency problem as it's being pushed beyond its 'happy place'.

They may have more lift as a big single valve will generally have less valve area compared to two smaller ones. You can achieve smaller overlaps but the ramp angles and valve acceleration become too extreme to control. It has always worked best to stick with 'std' cams with turbo installs unless you had specific cams ground to minimise overlap whilst having decent lift - mine were done by Kroll Cams in the US.

I thought 'Ireland' both N and S, are still in 'Europe' as regards trade so delivery should be like other EU countries? Still a stupid situation though!

Big cams always come with large overlap numbers which is not what turbos want. No point making boost and blowing it straight out of the exhaust!

Problem is, as you can't determine what's caused them, you can only guess if there is more damage elsewhere! The piston damage isn't significant enough to prevent use, but if it IS detonation, and it continues, things will only get worse. I'd check compressions / do a leak down test to check rings and valves, check carbs and plugs (correct type) - basically a good service and see what happens. To save ripping the head off again in the future un-necessarily, one of those cheap bore-a-scopes may be a good buy?

Well, idle it down then - should idle reliably @900-1100rpm!