Gixer1460

BTW - how did we get into 'side stand' switch deletion? Frankly if peeps can't work out how, even with limited electrical knowledge, then they shouldn't be asking!. It is there for a reason - may be for the peeps who have to ask how to delete it? Sorry if that offends anyone ...............................deal with it LOL!

Rationalised and legalised it for you.

Worked for me!

The brass crimp is factory - seen it lots of times on various manufacturers looms - the bare reds look odd though!

Liquid filled mechanical types are just so much more reliable on bikes than dry electronic ones - high frequency vibes will usually kill them or shake them to bits - my personal preference!

I thought the 1100 M / N was the only bike with 40's?

Yes would spool quick but soon choke itself. My first T2 came from a 1900cc diesel - max boost @ about 3500rpm but just wouldn't make anymore power - flat as! As to numbers - Turbine A/R 0.48 worked on mine but the turbine wheel was not the same it started with so it's a of bit guesswork!

Maybe, but if that shaft costs 10% of the area, you are still up 15% BUT airspeed will be lower so giving a less 'punchy' response which is probably why racers like slide carbs? But Suzuki didn't fit 38mm CV's to the Race 750RR's for no reason - just sayin'!

It looks bloody small - maybe even a T2? Possibly off a diesel with the small dia. turbine?

Intriguing project but I can't immediately see how the frame mods will help with chain run and car wheel / tyre use - watching with interest though! Just out of interest - car tyre in preference to a super wide bike tyre ....... reasoning?

Can't be sure but I believe the Oiler rockers have a different ratio so either increase or decrease valve lift in a GSX head. Unless you are chasing every last HP, i'd stick to what the engine came with!

Doesn't do jack! Some have tried 'resonators' between 1&2 and 3&4 but more marketing tool than performance enhancement! As 2 and 3 fire adjacent - you'd 'unbalance' flow from 1 and 4 for no gain.

That's nice - not too shouty!

There is a clearance issue between cylinder liner and rotating assembly - looks ugly but unavoidable. Could shorten the sleeve but length gives support to piston - choices, choices!

Thats a good number and works well from mild through warm to wild - Greg does know his onions!. Some increased compression won't hurt!

Well a GSX1400 ticks all the boxes - stroke should be 68mm, its a 4v and it is a 6 speed! And looking at the parts fiche the input shaft does look different - like the above, but hard to tell !

Are we knowing if was air cooled? The input shaft at the clutch end is weird looking!

Someone better tell the two turbo GSXR's that I've built, both with 17's - the Kawazuki was 17/45 @ 210hp and the 1460 has 17/42 @ a lot more! Tried an 18 from a Busa - no way, all with 530 / 532 chain

Agreed but there are only two short peaks before a tall one unless it's just a tooth counter and the 'missing' one is causing a spike added to the following one.I'm just used to seeing regular pulses with missing tooth giving a definite gap. BTW my 4 tooth was 4 teeth + 1 cam tooth - ancient Motec M8 ECU and low'ish turbo CR.

@Arttu - btw a 4 tooth modified std GSXR wheel will work - that's what I used on mine so I know it does - admittedly not great but it does. Correct me if i'm wrong but i'm reading only three teeth registering? Possibly a reason it won't start..... picture of your wheel may help?

That's a new one on me! If they are solid mount the whole coil will vibrate together with its mount and the frame, at whatever freq. Rubber mounting just changes the range where it vibrates on its own. I've used US made dyna coils from the 70's never a problem - it would seem Dyna outsourced their coils from Asia - these largely seem to experience the defects! Really - how difficult is it to wind some thick and thin copper wire round an iron core and mould resin round them? If the OEM's weren't so stupidly expensive they would be a 'top tip'!

Maybe so on a Blandit but the sump plug can be the lowest thing on a later GSXR with a Vee sump and 4-2-1 exhaust!

That still doesn't make any sense! Yes lower tensile bolts can be +/- (why anyone would not tighten to prescribed torque is strange!) but they will stretch the more torque that is applied actually reducing the applied clamping force - great addage - 'More is often Less'. If the stock bolts were changed for, say 12.9HT bolts, a higher (above std spec.) can be applied and still be within their own quoted yield stress and as they stretch less, that pressure goes into the clamping force.

Got to compare apples with apples! A 33mm anything is never going to match a 36mm anything for N/A airflow - simple physics! Why would anyone bother converting a CV to direct lift when a) it doesn't have an accelerator pump circuit to stop it falling on its arse when the handle is yanked and b) a comparable direct lift carb is available in sizes 34mm - 55mm!

The modded 33mm slide carbs have nearly 20% less airflow area - the CV throttle butterfly doesn't get near that as an obstruction hence flow less even though unobstructed - now if it was a 36mm flat slide against the CV - no contest!