Gixer1460

If the connections are below oil level it will not drain ! Subject to the cooler size probably between an additional 0.25 - 0.5L

Its not something much discussed as most installs are horizontal or upto 10 degrees off. Turbo bearings both plain and BB are designed for radial loads with a small passive axial pressure bearing to keep the wheels away from the scroll surfaces. This position also assists with natural drainage of oil out of the core. Shifting it vertical will remove all the radial load and transfer it axially needing a proper hi-speed thrust bearing and a way of preventing the oil pooling / pissing through the bearing and smoking like a tractor during start and general running - in all, a bad idea!

Does it start on the button or take a few cranks? It's usually slow cranking or crank inertia kick back - they are quite fragile HT bolts as std. I eventually gave up after breaking allsorts of metal types - I serviced the s. clutch, springs, rollers and pins and MIG welded 3No 1/2" stitch welds from clutch to rotor - never broke again (using high comp and 24v starting!)

Copper is an alternative often used with turbo's - providing the block is O ringed / wire ringed!

I don't know but top engine builders won't go below 0.5mm squish for a reason! A rod in a super hot race engine @ 12,000 rpm could easily stretch / use up all the bearing clearances that total 0.5mm?

Its the edge of the piston that determines the squish not the crown - if the crown is level with the gasket surface you'll be losing power through a bad burn / combustion. The edge should be closer to the gasket - a bit of solder placed on the piston edges in some grease during a dry build with a used gasket will reveal what it will be - ideally as noted above

If its a carb with a plastic float 'cage' - just pry the whole cage up out of the body casting then the needle removal is easier. Be gentle - it is fuel soaked plastic!

Hope you meant 0.040" as nearly 1/2" down the hole won't help! Subject to your head gasket thickness the deck ht. varies - for max output vs reliability the squish should be between 0.75 - 1.0mm - tighter is better but rod stretch and over-reving will lead to contact.

Going from 1127 to 1186 picked up 20hp for me and shed load of torque - difficult to get that increase with cams and not change anything else! That was as back - to - back as I could do - everything stayed as was, except the jetting!

Probably more than a couple of Bar boost ie. more than most peeps run. But doing a turbo build - is it worth the cost of some springs or rely on something tired and maybe 30 years old? I put G&S springs in mine............but it was designed to see in excess of 2 bars!

Nothing wrong with a bit of Vaseline to help getting big things into smaller holes - used worldwide LOL! Oh - O rings............... a dab of anything a bit sticky works - grease, vaseline, hylomar etc.

Really - did Suzuki fit the wrong engine in the GSXR then?

No - yellow is correct along with blue/black - they are GSXR 1127 pick-up colours. A GSXR doesn't have that interlock shite either!

Fairly sure it'll be a T4 not a T04 and will be too big for bike use IMO - The T3 series were about right. Not to say that if the core is good it couldn't be re-purposed with wheels and smaller scrolls but its a lot of work and money ......... unless you own a turbo shop!

I'm guessing the 'checker circuit' is looking at current draw to determine if the bulb is duff or not - as LED's draw less than normal bulbs its probably thinking its failed! A sales gimmick from the 80's which was never much use!

If you are going to the expense (time and money) doing a full on port and flow job inc. valves then valve guide replacement is usual as you are boring and re-cutting the seats so why do it with a wonky guide? As long as a valve stem is longer then new collet grooves can be cut and stem shortened then re-hardened with induction heating and quenching - but for the cost you might as well buy bespoke valves...........how fast can you afford to go?

It's not a 'normal' bore size - most will use 85 or 86mm for 1340 or 1371cc but if you can find the pistons - why not!

Well the obvious picks would be GS750, 850 or 1000? An ET tank may fit and they are mahooosive

Ah ha - that explains it!

For a 600 DJ104's sound big - from memory they are about the size used in 1200's - could never understand that as my GSXR1100 used DJ136/8's and used less fuel than a M8's 1200 - its all Dark Arts - I'm telling ya! Plug thread - Helicoil kit - done carefully will outlast the rest of the engine.

Ha Ha Ha - 14T and a turbo ! Most fit a 17 as it's about as big as will squeeze in without catching on engine / cover / clutch push rod and a 40 out back and smaller! Low end acceleration is not an issue - traction usually is!

Grabbed some pictures the other nite - hope they help?

Piston pin to crown height difference?

However they are made - they will go to around 300hp in a Bus before the ring lands let go! Most std GSXR / Blandit stock pistons can break NA whilst blowing into the airbox LOL!

You won't like that 044 fuel pump if your battery or charging system is weak - it can draw upto 12A ! IMO don't fit a 5-600hp FP if you don't need to!