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El Gringo

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About El Gringo

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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    Stratford on Avon, UK

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  1. Jesus! Thread from the Dead. Erm dunno, but it's sorted the shit running every time i've swapped it. Good news is the Husquvarna one for £17 worked a treat Also had one fail on my Bandit 4 and on my NC23 a while ago TBH it's still on the naughty step, i'm building something else that can't be mentioned on here so i'm aiming to get back on it in the summer It was running really well apart from the not transitioning to boost still. I've got a set of Bandit 4 carbs to try as an alternative. I'm also thinking about going back to renthals as just thinking about sittin
  2. It's not, the sandwich plate was an extra for my oil cooler, which necessitated the shorter filter to fit behind the turbo ^This is what i mean't
  3. I'm pretty sure from my research that there isn't a shorter filter with an M20x1.0 thread. I ended up using a sandwich plate as a take off (for an oil cooler) and modifying the adapter stub female end to fit the M20x1.0 bit sticking out of the engine whilst being M20 x 1.5 on the male end which allowed me to fit a 600 Fazer filter which is a fair bit shorter You could probably get a new engine stub made with an M20x1.5 thread and just use the fazer filter There's some info in my thread here -> *** Main info is on page 1
  4. Gahhh once again the devil sneezes in my cornflakes! I think the pulse coil has gone tits up again, it was a right bastard to start again and won't rev up, exactly like it was 18 months ago! However this time i've got a pretty good idea that it's the pulse coil - i checked the resistance and it's in spec but...... the one it stripped off my bandit 4 last week was also well in spec and that was fucked - it was sparking once and then not again. I think it's starting to break down, so it'll cope at tick over but as the crank spins faster the sensor can't keep up with it I thi
  5. Thanks boss Hopefully if this weather keeps up i'll be testing sooner rather than later
  6. What bore is the pipe on yours chap? Mine is 7mm at the pitot end, then 8mm all the way to the float bowl tees
  7. Yep, I'm 99.9% sure i've done the right thing , it's just tweaking it now I did debate using 2 separate pitots but for sake of ease and space ended up with a single one which then tees to each of the float bowl breather tee pieces (there's a lot of Tees going on here!) Seeing that Colin's Bandit works well on 1 (and I think Clive's has one too) with a tee suggests it should be okay I used the rough calculation from the Turbo Do's and Don'ts info for 1/4" pitot per 1" of up pipe diameter - so for my 32mm/1 1/4" up pipe i ended up with a 7mm ID pitot but then given that the 400 ca
  8. Yep, there's just enough space to get a proper clamp/clip on it. The more i think about it the more i think this is definitely the cause - fingers crossed it will sort it out. I'm not entirely sure why i didn't lockwire it first time round, other than I was going to and then forgot Should hopefully have a selection of pitot restrictors by the weekend too so will be able to see how much that will affect the running
  9. T's on the 400 carbs are identical to the ones above, i managed to get a single loop of lockwire round them, it's pretty tight in there behind the fuel pipes so difficult to get a picture. Thanks for the pictures @clivegto, that's made it clearer, i think the 400 carbs are a bit different to those. The unused path needs drilling up from inside the float bowl to meet where the stub crosses but it shouldn't be the end of the world I think i'm going to have to go down this route if the lock wiring doesn't have the desired effect - it's exactly at the 5.5k rpm point where it stutters and
  10. There isn't much of one on the 400 carbs either. I was wondering if i could tap the bit that is there out and use a threaded fitting with a hose barb end to give it something a bit more positive to connect to but decided to try lock wire on the normal rubber tees first
  11. A little internal sleeve might work if you can get it in The outer feeds i picked up from here -
  12. It possibly would, but unless you've got the carbs aparti can't see how you'd get them back in. Mine need the squishyness to get them between the stubs. Ideally i'd take them apart and make a soild joint across and the drill and use the outer unused connections (as per the turbo spondon bandit thread) but i can't get my carbs apart I'm hoping the lockwire will at least hold some of the boost in
  13. Definitely, although i want to test it somewhere again beforehand to see if it's helped and to save wasting more time on the dyno. Ian Cross invited me up to theirs to run it so will let you know as and when
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