Gixer1460

Good luck - they are a PITA to set up!

re Blandit tap - is it vacuum operated? If so then it'll turn itself off when you get boost!............probably won't flow enough either! An external gate will give better control but mine still has an internal gate @ 370hp.............just saying like! LOL!

Cos some of us mere mortals don't want 100+hp worth of boost to arrive mid corner !

Depends on engine size - mine is sufficient for it to work well.

LOL - are you gonna use that bearing again? Maybe not! Grease is cheap - use loads - Hi Moly Lithium good for bearings.

Its hard enough getting an 1100 to its own redline under load let alone adding another 2000 rpm to it! Plenty 1100's die before 13,000!

They'll be a bit cosy at the seats - 26mm is usual oversize. Of course, offset guides are an option - not cheap or DIY though!

lol! Seeing how squeezed it is to get the GSXR lump inside those frame rails - looks like it was never designed for anything aircooled - Zed, GS or GSX - which conclusion means a waterboiler, so should be taken out, shot then burnt!

Long answer short ....................No!

You can't have both with simple carbs! If you want torque you have to achieve gas speed / depression through the venturi - usually by restriction so 36's or 38's will do it but you WILL lose top end - how much is debatable. At the other end WOT and max revs power needs big holes to gulp as much air as possible so 40's / 41's / 44's are the way to go but until you get to their working range ....... it'll be just ok! EFI on the other hand doesn't need gas speed to pick up fuel and so will run considerably better and get torque with big holes! My 1460 idles and runs very nicely with 46mm TB's and makes close to 200hp and 100+ ftlbs of torque as a NA - it is a low comp turbo motor!

Why 'kawazuki' ? If its a aftermarket / DIY frame / chassis it can't be a 'kawa' can it?

Fundamental tappet / valve clearance gap adjustment is always made to have the recommended gap located between point of minimum lift on the cam which conversely occurs when its paired cylinder is at maximum valve lift. Just remembering that - its difficult to get wrong!

Well - a fixed advancer isn't a good idea for starting a High Comp motor. You could try switching the ign. independently of the cranking so that engine will crank with ign off and once its spinning light the sparks. Or as before use 24v starting!

Sprocket nut is a good one if chain is present - not impossible without just a pain! Inlets are obtainable new but a bit spendy. Long & low temp cooking in oil / glycerin can sometimes bring them back to life. Lots of penetrating fluid over all the mount bolts / nuts / studs - if it has a fastener - then drench it!

But it will stop the corrosion taking hold.

The sumps are deffo different - GSXR 4-2-2 exhaust, Blandit 4-1 ............... collectors around or under sump. Don't forget pick-ups to match sump.

^^^ as above and if is definitely ONLY #1 then it will usually be fuel related! Sorry to be negative but that's the way of the world !

If we are talking about the same thing - there should be little or no discernible play on the primary gear which is mounted on the back plate and via rivets to the basket. There may be a little play via the shock damper springs although this should be minimised to prevent grabby operation and chatter.

Dunno where that figure came from but mine (gsxr 1100L - 59mm) ran to well over 200+hp with no problems whatsoever. And I know of a std. but looked after Bandit crank that used to deal with 300+hp worth of nitrous power. I think excessive rpm's together with throttle on / throttle off, repeat, repeat repeat doesn't help. Thousands of these cranks have been raced - track and drag and breakages are thankfully fairly rare - rods are more vulnerable IMO. Yoshimura might have only used (58mm) to stay within class capacity limits?

I used GSXR400 USD's on my drag Katana - they were shorter by a bit and even shorter when strapped!

Fook me - they're chunky!

IMO - if there is no drawbacks to oiling the filter (ie they recommend it subject to use - strange as dust can occur any where anytime?) they why not just oil it anyway? Obviously they won't as it maybe saves 5p in oil but average Joe - it's not a cost i'd worry about?

Nice project - my crank was £1800 15 odd years ago - no CNC all manual turning and milling. A set of billet cases........ maybe £5000 - maybe triple that! What size pistons are you considering 81mm? Lot of dosh for just 1400cc!

Made a drawing and reduced a fackin' large / heavy bit of EN40B to a smaller expensive bit of EN40B.

Easy when you know how Personally I got rid of the damn thing when I did a re-wire!