Gixer1460

Looking at the cooler threads - they are goosed and probably, even with the correct threads, it's unlikely they'd tighten down correctly! Just hope the line fittings aren't equally mullered.

OEM valve seals are usually the 'gold standard' - aftermarket ones usually cause problems / wear out prematurely! Car turbo specialist - there's an oxymoron. The adequate dribble of pressurised oil won't do 'jack shit' for cooling - they are designed to run at and in excess of 900 deg. of course it's hot - thats how they work!

Could be ^^^ but more likely (in my opinion!) too much oil pressure to turbo / drainage from turbo. It gets past the bearings, into airflow and coats the inlet tract. Mine does it and it coats the insides of the intercooler as well - at least the aluminum won't rust! I have really choked down on the oil feed to the turbo - 1mm jet - but it still does it and at present I can't be arsed to sort it!

Trust me - it doesn't. The rad isn't anodised - they are painted and the aluminium threads soon get exposed.

Ultimately if you want to stay / get cooler . . . . . . . . drive slower / use less rev's. Going fast needs HP . . . . HP = heat, can't have one without the other. If you make more heat than stock, then you need more cooling area or same area cooled longer. An additional cooler addresses both points - no downsides!

^^^ Gets my vote ! When correct, the taper seats between fitting and rad will seal with little more than finger tightening - PTFE on the threads only used to stop threads galling / welding together over time - NOT SEALING LEAKS

I think the 750 / 1100 top gear ratio's are near enough the same so that won't change but if you are killing 1st gear (for whatever reason ) then installing thinner width gears is not going to improve your reliability! Power helps - junk the CV's add 36mm Flatties job done - 3rd gear wheelies on the throttle and with stock gearing +152hp

Now that's just cheating but I understand the chain hits the cases also with an 18T - a 17T with a 532 chain was pretty close for me.

On a GSXR based cases, a 18T front won't fit - many have tried!

I'm a bit confused - speed is a function of HP v's Drag and as a lot of hp is needed to do 200mph, it's easy enough to get a bike rolling with a less than optimal 1st or 2nd gears. Superstreet bikes use std (worked on) gearboxes and hit 200mph in the quarter - its the clutch that takes the grief. Are the 750 gears so significantly different and can you avoid a large step to 3rd if it works at all?

No inconvenience - just clarifying for those that may not appreciate the difference.

Don't know much about the H2 but just reading the Wiki about it - bit more sophisticated than a Procharger - but yes!

I'm intrigued to know which pump you've used as the carb'd CBR's used a std low pressure interrupter pump that isn't regulated and the injected models used a regulated high pressure 3 bar pump. I suspect the former as they stop once bowl is full and start again once level drops?

Then you would use a Centrifugal ProCharger type unit - they give linear boost with revs!

Explain please? Turbo (heat driven supercharger) positive displacement supercharging or centrifugal supercharging outputs can be tailored to most power delivery requirements?

Depends on how tidy you want the install to be? Obviously an in-tank is a lot less exposed plumbing but off board pump and reg leaves the tank standardish depending whether you use a deadhead or return line constant flow bypass install. Pumps do fail inexplicably so an external pump is sometimes easier to swop out and probably an easier install - I chose this route on my GSXR.

HyperPro progressive springs and an Ohlins out back - transformed!

Nothing OEM is cheap - doesn't mean it's better though!

Hagon gets my vote only as i've never used Maxton ! They built me a custom shock with spec'd up spring and drag suited damping - worked great and at same cost as their usual price.

At idle and cruise when airflow is low ie. relatively closed throttle, the benefit of exactly metered and atomised injected fuel certainly helps. My turbo used to run low of 12.5 : 1 AFR with a static CR of 9.5 : 1 and upto two bar boost. Admittedly using high octane fuel, intercooler and 3D mapped Ignition - allowed 42 deg timing off boost / cruise condition ...... as I said you don't have to use band aids with the correct 'stuff'

Why? 13.2 : 1 AFR is correct max power mixture - 14.7 : 1 is chemically correct total burn mixture. Using ratios below 12 : 1 IMO is unnecessary if the limitations of the fuel / ignition were understood and compensated for.

It was only a friendly question! The OP has pressed up a nice crank to exacting tolerances - its straight and all the parts may be weight matched - but what about the weld dotted around the pins? Only takes a few grams to end up with a vibe monster. V&H dynamically balance their cranks - https://products.vanceandhines.com/store/suzuki/33-9113/

Here's the puppies ....... https://www.knfilters.com/air-filters/powersports/ru-2922-universal-clamp-on-air-filter - should have been 60mm dia!

Lots / most are oval........... filters tend to be round - you just them stretch to fit - 55mm dia rings a bell for filter hole size but I could be wrong !

Sustained or Redline through gears? I'd say its potential life would be short with those rpm's if sustained!