tyler

clutches are different, hub would swap if the actual clutches were correct. So machine the center of my hub down, or upgrade the basket to this steel one by pressing outthe rivets and swapping baskets. TIG weld the rivets back in. Machining seems easier.

im using that as a last resort, the steel "looks" hard, and i dont want to break a tool; moreover i havent taken it apart in a while but i think i would have to drill and tap holes, may have other fitting issues im unsure. My plan is to see if the clutches and inner hub are swap able like other posts i have seen converting to spring vs diaphragm. i know i need the 72, so hopefully this will work out. the rest of the clutch will be useless for me.

I bought an entire clutch from a 1989 gsx1100f. With springs. See what it is like. Was only $40. So I figured I’d just try it. Next will be a “slingshot” gsxr. 1989. The slabslides have 73 teeth vs the 72. So I guess I will see

well im interested to know what clutch/clutch hub will i be wanting to use? it looks like the 1986 GSXR with the 1052 motor, but i am just unsure and do not want to order something and then feel like a fool. the issue is the hub is too "long" because the shaft is now shorter.

Looks like I need a different clutch assy. The input shaft needs to be a little longer so the nut can fully thread on. However flipping the bearing around solved that issue. I could gain a little room by machining down the two rather large washes in the clutch assy. One that backs to the bear on the shaft. The other separates the basket from the inner hub. Is there a list of years/models that have the correct clutch? What will I be switching to?

"Drill shaft for clutch. Swap output shaft bearings about, and I used a 1052 slabbie clutch inner hub and cover in a Bandit basket. That's it. " Am i about to have issues? i havent looked real close and when i return home i for sure will. But will i need clutch parts from other bikes to complete this now?

i have the bearing on the shaft turned around, just have to slide the gears back on it, and install. Another small bit of info is the bushing/spacer for the counter sprocket needs ground down 1/8th'', flat so the counter sprocket can fit on the splines 100% and be straight when the nut is tight against it.

as you can see the "grove" cut out in the bearing does not line up with the case. Gears mesh perfectly. Behind the gear closest to the counter sprocket "is" there is some grinding needed. Will show what it looks like tonight after i put the shaft back in.

So me pressing off the bearing and turning it around this morning was a good idea? i didnt measure i just hoped. Photos to come soon, so some other guy doesnt have same issues

i have photos i will post in the morning. Also i just read that turning the bearing around, and making a new slot for the pin will get it to line up. So we will see i guess.

Update. I got the hole drilled in the input shaft for the clutch push rod. Pretty easy with a lathe i swapped the 750 bearing for the 1200 bearing on the output shaft, the 750 was much smaller in width. I noticed one small spot i will have to clean up with a die grinder to get a gear to "clear". it almost/kinds touches. but my main issue is i can not get the key groove for the big bearing to line up in the case without forcing it so far that the first gear touches the case, i have had the gears in and have found neutral, spun shafts etc. Gears are good, but it is like the only issue is the shaft is longer? and moving the bearing too far out? i didnt measure when i had them naked, but i will try and see if maybe the 750 shaft is longer. is there something i am missing? if i stuck with the 750 bearing it still would not line up in the correct spot. If anyone has some good ideas on this please let me know. If not, i will end up making a key way, closing the motor up and trying it. thanks in advance

thanks banoffee With stock gears and a 190 tire i was doing 70mph @ 4000 give or take a couple. 4000 rpm now with one smaller front one bigger back only goes 65 or so. i have looked up the ratios, 6th gear is like a 1.03 or something and 5th in the bandit is .9 something. so there is 10% right there. More over, the first gear is crazy low, 2nd gear is like the bandits first gear. so everything about it sounds better to me except the fact it is going to be "weaker" I bought this bike from my dad back in 2010/11, with 19,xxx it will cross 60,xxx on my way home from work today. Assuming that is why 1st gear has given up. Already gone through a timing chain, exploded my oil pump once, had to find another slingshot head and cams. this time when i take the case apart im going to replace rod and crank bearings. they looked flawless last time (somehow with zero oil pressure for like 10 mins once, and 60,xxx)

i left out some vital details Slingshot head Sling shot cams Mill cylinders to zero deck clearance Slotted timing Slotted Cam Sprockets Full Yoshi Still just CV carbs with over sized main and pilot Still has Air box, w/ hole the millage is shit due to the above mods and the fact i am running 4200 RPM!!!!! to cruise a 70 mph. i have lower geared sprockets to obtain the pep i want, and the fact it likes 10,000 rpm and not 8,500. you can gear it different sure, but then no more 3rd gear wheelies, its a dog, etc. Add one more gear with a much higher ratio than 5th in the B12 box. and your in like flin. i wore the shit out of first gear dogs. Literally will engage for a second pop engage pop. so that is why i am switching gear boxes, but i rather have 6 gears than 5. so swap a 6 speed box instead of a B12. no matter what i have to switch gear boxes. im not looking for opinions on the matter, or sarcasm. just trying to find detail on what is needing worked on to fit these gears. Mileage is not a concern of mine, but it would be nice to have more. My concern is a ruined 1st gear. and how to fit a 6 speed box. as far as "ride easier" i have never, not even in stock form, got better than 45mpg. they are toys, i ride them as such. thanks dupersunc for the input will search archive, if i cant find it could use some help...

Been searching through the forums trying to find a detail write up of someone using a 1988-89 GSXR 750 6 speed gear box in a Bandit 1200 engine. i know the shaft needs drilled to operate the clutch. But what about everything else? Bearing? Spacers? Machining? Can someone post a link to the correct forum and or maybe shed some insight on how to do this. i WANT 6 gears. a lower first and a taller high gear. i feel that with the mods i have and small carbs i should be able to get 40mpg or better. the way it is i can manage 30-35 but i have to run 4,200rpm to go 70 mph. i know a 100lbs of torque will push the bike down the hwy @ 3,500 or less. thanks in advance guys