Duckndive

Ok but with part no's any Suzuki Dealer should be able to supply parts and earn a £ or Euro in the process

You need an Adult to answer that i only do childish Draw Thru's

https://www.suzuki-ireland.ie/dealers/

Small TBs and ports Yes....But they will make 350hp + BigCC have done a few TBH i did wonder from you pic if you only had the bare engine ....and i assume it's going in an alternate frame....? A Draw Thru Turbo would be the easiest for simplicity but not everyone's choice ..

Why not keep the Fi ? 1400s are a bit gasping when pushed on Fi with a turbo I doubt carbs would be any better

Don't believe i intimated they were

Mr Suzuki San Says

Rotational Play is normally weak or broken springs....Repair Kit is available from various sources Lateral Play along the shaft can be shimmed out i dont have a 2V manual but the 4V one covers it...

Search and ye will find

B12 wheel will fit in B6 leg ...just use the B12 carrier and spacers then it bolts straight in

Polishing Just the same as chrome when done properly and protected just requires a wipe with a leather or cleaning cloth after either being washed or soiled I,m sure a certain member on here can point you in the right direction for care products

Super Glue and baking soda ...search on youtube

Steve Conways it runs and rides no show pony

Would not buy Sweet FA from D&K.... That aside i put a nice Complete 1135cc Motor up for £500... not even an offer So Broke it and netted £1200 .............

Just fit the 1100F motor and use the blandit cdi.... the engine will never know

These are Gen1 slugs on gsxr 1100 rods no spacer plate when i built my draw thru "other less awesome sounding way's are possible" Bit of a clunker really

I think Steelheart have done one offs in the past.... But on an efe easier to fit a wider wheel from a newer bike

And you need Gen 1 busa pistons as Gen 2 are 18mm pin not 20mm

B12 Blandit Block is good for 1216......1276 would need new liners

Stock Blandit Motor 75 shot down its throat from the get go....8.7....

It's easy use a steel ruler to guide it into place

Aside from sorting the lock stops its pretty much a straight swop ..

My 1150 Turbo used to run at about 110 to 120F or 44 to 48C ...Hottest spot was rear of block between 1 and 2.... In contrast when it was was N/A it ran about 110 to 115F ...........Hottest Spot was rear of block between 3 and 4 The Oil Boiler powered turbo ran about 120 to 140F......again rear of block between 1 and 2 was hotest .."it was also running small coolers as it didn't go very far"

Web Cams normally have engraved marks on the end or next to cam sprockets failing that measure the lobes