Duckndive

i dont think kent sell them direct as they are there "SPS" own spec which it lists these are the stage 1 'road and track ' JR2 spec. 5.87mm Cam Lift, 253 degrees duration.These Cams give good mid range power n excellent top end boost;

Drill hole were the plastic peg was drill the bars and use a roll pin ..

I Used H/D studs on both the 1428 & the Turbo....got them from Orient Express

Stock on my Turbo as well 25 psi with no ill effects

less of a fiddle than selector forks and no damaged fingers

I,ve cable tied the box into the bottom case and then fitted it onto the top in the past

Yes largest i found was the Trumpet one i used on Izzy because she has 955 Forks

Good Luck with a mechanical drive on the front there is barely 10mm between wheel and fork bottom on thou front ends from K4 to date Rear Wheel is an option as suggested "old brit stuff often used that"

TBH unless you have a Big Block and have to run an External Feed With the amount of oil sloshing around inside the cam cover i don't see the point...

Yeap i,ve always done Air Cooled and Oil Boiled at that

Its also best to sync the slides with them of the bike

We used to have the pistons in the Fuel Car coated but nowadays its not that common George Bryce "Star Racing" supplies some of his piston kits coated

never worried about them

You could well be right dave

And the Kids bike went just over 300 on stock rods

Yes I,ve read most of the stuff on the Web and forums along with speaking to a few owners many years ago...there is also the lean issue

Well done you .... hence why i put IMO Only ever use cheap Mineral in all my GSX motors never had any issues

https://www.kentcams.com/support

The Photos make it look worse than it actually is TBH....but its not enough to worry about to not get it running However i will be stripping the blower to correct the rotation and do a mod to the outlet....so will have a better look then Long Term i may get the rotors telfon stripped to improve efficiency but doing that will also tighten the blower up so consequently it will be harder to drive "use more power" ... But initial game plan is to get it set up on a test mule

If it has been slipping as you described for some time then the fibres will be F##ked by now. anyway... The Semi Synthetic may not have helped the situation IMO There is no reason a stock clutch needs any extra bits on a stock engine ....OEM Parts are the best Back to basics strip and investigate Soak new Fibres overnight in Mineral Oil before fitting ....

Common Drag Race trick but To do that you have to mod the inner hub by removing the lip at the bottom along with the clip and steel

So after a wash and brush up then discarding the non Sims & Rohm Plenum addition but keeping the fabricated inlet and adding a Large HSR i had this is the basic starting point 1st job is sort out the crank drive to work with a stock set up

OK then after wanting one for over 18 years and a couple of failed attempts to purchase one thanks to an OSS member I have finally purchased a big box LoL And all is revealed yes it’s a Sims & Rohm Kit Well Mostly it is as it was fitted to a drag bike so has been adapted etc Big Thanks To Quist for selling and shipping it to the UK TBC

Ok given a GS1000 is old but it is a founder member of the UJB as are for example Blandit,s So Think Outside the Box a little E,G Items 18 and 19 https://www.suzukiparts.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsf-bandit/gsf1200/gsf1200t-y-1996-2000-mk1-naked-and-faired.htm?vehicle_id=17#!gsf1200tyrearswinginarm No idea if there the same side but a simple bit of measuring and you will find out