Duckndive

i have one done unused since and the clutch gear could save you £££

Richard Hocking is the man you need

Well when i built my 1st one i used an EFE bottom end with 78mm 1100L Pistons in an EFE block with 2mm "Ish" removed from the deck...so 66mm x 78mm x 4 = 1260 cc in round figs Now if you use a blandit block & pistons on EFE Bottom end you would get 66mm x 79mm x 4 = 1294 cc in round Figs i assume pin height on the Blandit Slug is the same as a 1100L Slug so would need sums to sort deck height I chucked a oil boiler block on air cooled cases out of interest yonks ago "they had been previously machined for a 1428 Big Block" and they went straight on so as with any engine build its all down to doing dry builds and sums ...But it works Performance wise the 1st one went 10.01 at 138 mph on 2nd pass at the pod that was no tuning work just stock parts with RS38mm Carbs ...bike was 64" Wheelbase I don't see any major Issue running one on the Road just a bigger oil cooler

If you use the ET copper washers and Dome nuts there's no issue with the oil draining via the front studs...... I built mine from the ground up with many dry builds before final assembly If i did another one i would use an oil boiler cylinder block as well ..... Oooh And the seller of the head on ebog is Mark Watkins in Dagenham....

Oil goes up the outer studs not the middle ones.... All you need to do is block the oil tube holes in the oil boiler head .and modify cam chain tunnel so the gasket seals properly ..I also drilled some holes at an angle into the cam tunnel to help oil drain .. Dead simple swop

Yeap the original 7-10 did it many moons ago Very old scanned pic from USB days

Later GSXR or Blandit Switch Gear are relatively easy replacements if your handy at wiring "swapping plugs etc" and B6 ones are normally cheaper Its Not everyone's ideal solution to the choke but a key ring on the end of the shaft on left hand carb has always worked for me... PS dropping old switches in an Ultra Sonic Cleaner works wonders

He wants to keep as many EFE features he can… it was a very clean stock bike when he got it.

It’s Stews bike he works at JLR…electronics wizard… Rotex Supercharger……jonny1bump knows him as well…

They are Country Codes ...its in the manual

I would check the oil pipes are not blocked

Yes common bracket racer trick in the USA

Is it not a Hyvo Chain ?

Maybe Eblag item number: 275655440060 would help

Dug some pics of mine when i 1st fitted it and the orientation of the drain It was very tight to the alternator so used a 45 deg swivel to get a clean drain Route Cause Of Smoke and Oil LEak

Simple answer is yes you can rotate the the hot side by loosening the V-Band "Dont over tighten it" The Cold side is fixed to the centre section and needs to be dismantled to change " I think" Loopie did mine However where you describe the leak coming from points to the shaft being worn and the bearing & seal passing oil " Common Rajay Issue" can be hit and miss finding New parts.....i upgraded to a Garrett T3 i had and Loppie got it rebuilt and tweaked

Roger Upperton bought one recently of facebbok that needed work he may have it for sale

Not all Trumpit ones are 90mm centres

I would Port the original head and sell the Dot one

This is normally referred to as my "Blue Bike" or Suzi_1 its a bit triggers broom having appeared in many guises Current guise with N/A 1216 Oil Boiler Motor Zorst in Pics is a Vance & Hines Sidewinder from a GSX 1100...Its tight to the frame but a miss is a miss all that's need to fit to the motor is small reduction of the pipe flange into the head.... Last Pic is Previous Guise 1428cc Road Ridden Big Block EF Motor ...Same pipe Different Engine

The Gasket "Type" you have is called MLS "multi layer steel" just fit it the right way up normally an Arrow or UP marked on it and torque to the correct specs as per manual

Ducrapi And Other Italian Stuff have nice matching levers and res...

None in 750 Zuma Heads