Duckndive

It normally breaks the oil pump drive teeth if you replace the clutch basket without checking "ALL" the parts are lined up correctly ....common School Boy Error not RTFM It's much easier to avoid if you remove the Alternator before fitting the basket I have some spare teeth from one i bought with the same issue....

That was also my understanding

APE did a better retainer that stops that happening with high lift cams etc

Easier to buy a screw and locknut head....

not as a rule .....i would say it was a little light on weight when installed and now the plates have bedded in under the right conditions it slips a bit... i used to run my turbo efe on 3 stock springs with a nut and bolt on 3 arms and a bolt with 2 nuts on the other 3 arms....one finger pull on lever 1.60 - 60 fts and no slip on road Caveat but not all bikes are the same on that set up

Most Lock-up clutches on Turbo road bike have been fitted to beef up the stock clutch and stop slip and not what they were originally designed for "Drag Racing" Give the symptoms you describe it sounds like it may need a little bit more weight on all or some of the lock up arms .. This assumes it was fitted with the correct air gap and some weight,s to start with ? By Weight i mean "Nuts, Bolts and washers"

I agree just looking for clarification as model description varies so much between uk and us models ....

are you talking about one of these ?

Yes i know i was referring to the inner hub and pressure plate being the same as slabbie items for coil spring conversion

Use Powerscreem parts less wonga same job

Err no 1052 slabby basket has different tooth count to a 1127 slingshot basket.....

I think the pic is a bit deceptive. The one cam is not sat in the head properly

I would change to a 10/40 straight mineral oil .....works for me OEM plates every time

You dont need to spend pingle money $$$ good info here ref replacement tap

that would point to low stack height "worn fibres" and the extra steel is just taking up the slack so to speak

Its a bit of an oddball as the 1200 zuma has a pump on a similar set up to the 750 zuma but the 750 sont have a pump........... both use the same tap location and both use 32mm carbs ... i have a Fazer 600 tap on my 1200 engined 750 Zuma

No Problems on the Turbo one the other has only been round a car park so not a real test Most Suzuki Radials are 50mm top and 53 / 54mm lower .. But Best to check with an adult

I used K4 thou front end on the Turbo jobbie The still unfinished 1398 N/A one has a K7 Thou Front End both were simple bearing swops and just new lock stops

As Chaos Said You start with a Steel "Driven Plate" then Fibre "Friction Plate" then steel then fibre blah blah etc then finish with a Fibre............

Simple answer No....EF has more teeth on gear ...

i would double check as from that picture you dont have it indexed right ... Should be like this

What happens if you have the clutch lever pulled in "clutch disengaged" ? i would take the clutch basket out and check the oil pump drive gear is the correct one and engaged properly i would also check the gear shift shaft is correctly indexed to the shift drum

Well Zee Manual shows a blandit esk sump on the Zuma and the front engine mounts are blandit as is the removable frame section so i would say yes